Connecting two wires together: solder vs. butt conn. Part 2

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This is a follow up of my last thread about soldering two wires together https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/5200935/1 Seems like a lot of people suggested crimp connectors would be better. Well, this is what I have to deal with now:

[Linked Image from fototime.com]


Ex police car where they removed the police equipment and just twisted the wire ends together and cover with tape. Maybe 20 wires in the harness. So are the crimp connectors better than soldering. Like I mentioned, it would be so bulky and never fit back in the harness again.
 
Originally Posted by atikovi
So are the crimp connectors better than soldering.

That the automotive, marine, aviation, and aerospace industries use crimps almost exclusively says a lot. A lot of automotive repair guys believe soldering is better. The controversy will never cease.

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Good luck with that mess - sorry I have nothing to add, except that sometimes practicality supersedes "best".
 
Solder is better , with heat shrink over it . Not saying butt splices would not work ( faster ) .

Best of luck to you , :)
 
Solder and heat shrink would be best and the most reliable connection and will also be the least bulky of any connection method and will make it a lot easier to fit the harness back into the split loom.
 
Got a small torch?



esp since it would appear we're talking a low temp, low flex/vibration area inside the car (vs under the hood).. solder should be fine.
 
Originally Posted by doitmyself
Originally Posted by atikovi
So are the crimp connectors better than soldering.

That the automotive, marine, aviation, and aerospace industries use crimps almost exclusively says a lot. A lot of automotive repair guys believe soldering is better. The controversy will never cease.

35.gif



You are confusing repairs with factory wiring. Yes, most terminals in connectors on factory wiring harnesses are crimped, not soldered. Most factory wiring doesn't require connecting two wires together in the middle of a run either like in a repair job. Wires in a factory harness run device to device. Have never seen a crimped butt connector in a factory harness.
 
That's why I ended with "sometimes practicality supersedes "best".

This article that covers the pros/cons and how good technique and materials are required in both methods also ends with "crimp where you can, solder where you have to" : https://millennialdiyer.com/articles/motorcycles/electrical-repair-crimp-or-solder/

No matter if it is factory wiring or not,there is no consensus anywhere, including BITOG. Even the boating guys argue about the subject when the boating industry endorses crimps, both OEM and after purchase repairs.
 
Originally Posted by earlyre
alternatively.... https://youtu.be/3YEw5tY3kdw?t=2097 the video embed doesn't wanna work b/c of the "start at" function in the link...(starting 30 some min in.)


At minute 36+ he states that he crimps everything and explains why he prefers that over solder (but solder works too).
 
Combine both crimped , soldered and shrink wrapped for best connection.. minimal resistance

Don't use lead free solder that stuff sucks and is brittle and requires high temps which can damage the copper..


solder will prevent corrosion on the crimped connection or create sacrificial layer
 
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Originally Posted by atikovi
Originally Posted by doitmyself
Originally Posted by atikovi
So are the crimp connectors better than soldering.

That the automotive, marine, aviation, and aerospace industries use crimps almost exclusively says a lot. A lot of automotive repair guys believe soldering is better. The controversy will never cease.

35.gif



You are confusing repairs with factory wiring. Yes, most terminals in connectors on factory wiring harnesses are crimped, not soldered. Most factory wiring doesn't require connecting two wires together in the middle of a run either like in a repair job. Wires in a factory harness run device to device. Have never seen a crimped butt connector in a factory harness.
you have never owned a 70's Mopar!
 
Originally Posted by atikovi
Originally Posted by doitmyself
Originally Posted by atikovi
So are the crimp connectors better than soldering.

That the automotive, marine, aviation, and aerospace industries use crimps almost exclusively says a lot. A lot of automotive repair guys believe soldering is better. The controversy will never cease.

35.gif



You are confusing repairs with factory wiring. Yes, most terminals in connectors on factory wiring harnesses are crimped, not soldered. Most factory wiring doesn't require connecting two wires together in the middle of a run either like in a repair job. Wires in a factory harness run device to device. Have never seen a crimped butt connector in a factory harness.

It is rare to find solder inside an automobile wiring harness. Within the components, yes.

Connector pins are crimped to the wire.

Soldering is common in aviation cannon plugs, where the wiring is soldered to the pins, but cannon plugs have proper stress relief built in and there is no strain on the pins.
 
Assuming you have a very strong soldering skills and can solder in places that cannot be easily reached, then by any means "Solder" those sucker.
For me, I cannot solder inside a hood in a car since my contortion ability is very limited plus the solder may burnt other things, then the sealed/heat shrink butt connector will suffice.

Sometimes, practicality beats perfection.
 
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What kind of hack job is that... thing probably has a junction block for the stuff...

Even back when I worked for them, GM wanted you to use heat shrinking crimp connectors (Packard Electrical).

I get the space issue though, you could use bare crimp splices and heat shrink, it will be more compact...

I suppose replacing the harness is out of the question?
 
Either you have a halfway decent iron and practice using it, or you don't and need to acquire both those things.

On the other hand, what if all the wires don't fit in the loom? Is there space to add a 2nd loom, or just leave some out of the loom? Interior wires don't need quite the protection that exterior do.

Since the wires have now had their (metal) conductors exposed to air, you might want to flux them before soldering to help get some oxidation off. You might also need a petroleum solvent to clean the electrical tape goo off. Don't use something like "Goo Gone" that has an oil in it, unless you want a second step of cleaning that oil off too. Point a fan at the (open door) vehicle so fumes don't build up in there while you're working.
 
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