And HPL is sort of a TriSyn on steriods.This makes sense as TriSyn produced some of the cleanest high mileage engines I’ve ever seen.

And HPL is sort of a TriSyn on steriods.This makes sense as TriSyn produced some of the cleanest high mileage engines I’ve ever seen.
ThanksM1 ESP 5w30 uses PAO and AN in its base oil (and possibly some GTL too)
Is AN definitely there or are you saying it might have it? That’s the first time I’ve heard anything about that beyond it possibly having it.M1 ESP 5w30 uses PAO and AN in its base oil (and possibly some GTL too)
I wonder how an OEM comes up with the B10 and whether they test a wide range of viscosities?
Take an engine that is pretty tough on oil. Take 10 of those engines and split them up 5/5 using 0w20 vs 5w30 or pick your grade. Run them all for 300k miles in a simulated test. Tear them down and see what grade did best. They're not doing that.
The title of this thread drew many clicks. Amazingly it has stayed intellectual, and respectful.
Kudos!
So you are saying if you drive a grocery getter making 240hp on north American roads at 40 mph you don't need a xxw40? That is RIDICULOUS.Likely the average driver isn't driving hard enough / hot enough to require a thick viscosity. There isn't one answer, and it's why there is a large variety of choices depending on application.
Do you have a source on it using AN? Genuinely curious.M1 ESP 5w30 uses PAO and AN in its base oil (and possibly some GTL too)
I read it somewhere on here recently but I can’t seem to find itDo you have a source on it using AN? Genuinely curious.
I found this on another website, does it tell anything?I read it somewhere on here recently but I can’t seem to find it![]()
It says Sponge Bob and Patrick are dumb.
The results I was talking about was the varnish.Also wear isn’t the main discriminatory between synthetic and conventional base stocks. In fact PAO exhibits slightly increased wear. But that’s just for the stock.
After that there are anti-wear additives plus the fact that today’s Group III synthetics are structurally the same as a conventional.
Synthetic stock gets you better cold weather performance and things such as better oxidation resistance and less deposit formation. Some also allow the use of less VM to achieve a specific winter rating.
I can see PAO but not AN.
I agree that there is no AN due to lack of big ripples in the 700s on the x-axis. Bummer.I can see PAO but not AN.
Yes but you do burn a pretty impressive amount of oil after following the "intelligent" OLM so I'm not sure you're really posting a W here.Thanks for stating that.
I wasn't planning on listening to those who say I need to change the oil 3 times earlier than the intelligent OLM says it needs to be changed given I only run HPL or Amsoil SS and do 90% highway driving ( and no fuel dilution problems ).
Edit: I think the member who did a UOA and checked for fuel dilution was very smart, but I don't have fuel dilution problems because of my type of driving. If I did, I would change it earlier.
What does @wwillson run?When I first joined this site back in 2002 there was a guy named George from AV Lube (something like that) who was an XOM distributor. When they switched from TriSyn to SuperSyn, it was said (by him) that XOM was trying to get rid of the ester component ($). The thinking was they were going to rely more on oxidation resistance and leave out the high solvency esters. This may or may not be true but it's what he said back in the day.
I've heard some refer to oils like that as dry oils - lacking solvency but relying heavily on oxidation resistance and detergents to keep things clean. I don't know how true or not true this is but I could see that being the case.
Price is usually somewhat indicative of oil performance. Look at all the most expensive oils and they all use ester/AN. Amsoil leaves them out for their XL and OE line, but uses a good slug in the SS.
Maybe that is what separates that real clean looking metal that @wwillson has shown in his engine pics vs the typical yellow varnish look you often see.
IIRC it's speculation because the M1 ESP 5W-30 doesn't have esters (oxidation too low) so people assume it has AN in its place to replace the esters' function.Is AN definitely there or are you saying it might have it? That’s the first time I’ve heard anything about that beyond it possibly having it.
I'm curious after two results showing M1 EP had thinned out significantly in your vehicle with 70% life remaining on the OLM, and you still run M1 EP?? Have you considered a different oil that will hold up better?As a long-time Honda owner (close to 40 years) have been fortunate to have the acquaintance and friendship of several Honda Master-Certified Technicians who service our cars and been very honest and communicating about proper service. You are correct that most Honda customers follow the MM, use whatever bulk oil the dealer supplies and have little or no major issues despite the 1.5t's "problems "
I imagine that most Honda customers trade their cars a lot earlier than most here on the forum. My issue with the Honda MM is that it's an algorithm, tells you NOTHING about the actual condition of the fluids.
My wife's 2020 CRV was exclusively short-trips and at about 2400 miles on Mobil1 0w20 EP, with the MM indicating 70% life remaining, 2 different UOA's showing the oil both diluted and thinned significantly below grade viscosity. Obviously the engine type, operating conditions and usage showing that following the MM would not be wise with long-term ownership considered. Before trading it in on an HR-V with its non-turbo, port injection engine we considered the actual usage would be classified as severe. Conversations with my trusted Technician indicating that the 2.0 engine in the HR-V would be much more tolerant of this type of usage. She drives about 3k/yr. After 30 years as a Biomedical Technician working on life-support equipment, firmly believe that Pre-emptive maintenance beats reactive maintenance every time. I'd rather just change the oil rather than an endless series of UOA's. My 2023 Civic with the 1.5t now has 22k on it, using Mobil1 5W-30 EP without issues, usually 4-5k intervals, it's does more highway but gets driven more as I'm still working part-time.