I've seen this to some extent, but within boundaries.
Confessions of a Recovering Thickie
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That's unlikely to reduce deposits and could actually make it worse. It's the quality of the base oil and additive chemistry (in terms of cleaning and oxidation resistance) that is more important. Piston and valve deposits are linked to volatility with formation occurring from burning oil vapors. Volatility rears its ugly head quickly, not over thousands of miles. The first time the oil splashes on those 450°F cylinder walls, the light ends will evaporate. This is happening 5 miles after the oil change, not 3k or 10k. Changing the oil more frequently could just mean evaporating more light ends and burning more oil vapor more frequently.
Describe what it means for an engine to wear out as well. Is it a damaged VVT system? Is it scored cylinders? Is it a stretched timing chain that throws codes? Is it cam damage from cylinder deactivation failure? PPM of metal in oil analysis has too few inputs. Failure isn't described. It's like describing a human based on the fact they have two legs and disregarding everything else.
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Thanks for stating that.
I wasn't planning on listening to those who say I need to change the oil 3 times earlier than the intelligent OLM says it needs to be changed given I only run HPL or Amsoil SS and do 90% highway driving ( and no fuel dilution problems ).
Edit: I think the member who did a UOA and checked for fuel dilution was very smart, but I don't have fuel dilution problems because of my type of driving. If I did, I would change it earlier.
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More proof that oil is not just oil.
You may be right....I'm not sure. I just remember being surprised at the results.
I wish they had taken both engines and ran Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30!
They would not need to go another 500K, maybe run the test out to 20K or maybe 40K!
Exactly what I've been saying for years and why I run an oil with high quality base stocks and add packs. My vehicles are kept for a long time and a lot of miles, so keeping the internals clean to me is paramount. @RDY4WAR made the point perfectly and points out why I don't run oils that meet spec. I want the oil I run to far exceed the API requirements.
Base oil selection, oxidation resistance, strong detergent dispersant package, detergents, VM type and solvency are all important. The solvency from esters really helps keep internals clean and I often think that is what separates the good from great oils when it comes to cleanliness. Some of the newer oils are using solvency boosters that are not ester. I'm not sure what those are (Mobil 1 ESP 5w30 ex).
Alkylated naphthalene is also a big help in cleaning internals and keeping them clean.
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Which synthetic brands use Alkylated naphthalene other than HPL?
You cant make this generalization as different engines types shed at different intervals and its all considered normal.
Contrast a Cummins or a Hemi or a Pentastar vs a Toyota and you'll see this pattern.
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Looks like a copy of my last landing final approach data.
I don’t understand the chart to be honest ( oil question ).
Which brands use it?
It’s from a LSJR vid in HPL’s lab. He’s showing M1 EP and Truck and SUV use AN’s. Most of the ESP’s use ester. I believe the FS 0w40 uses AN’s. Someone will correct me if I’m wrong.
Patman
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M1 ESP 5w30 uses PAO and AN in its base oil (and possibly some GTL too)
When I first joined this site back in 2002 there was a guy named George from AV Lube (something like that) who was an XOM distributor. When they switched from TriSyn to SuperSyn, it was said (by him) that XOM was trying to get rid of the ester component ($). The thinking was they were going to rely more on oxidation resistance and leave out the high solvency esters. This may or may not be true but it's what he said back in the day.
I've heard some refer to oils like that as dry oils - lacking solvency but relying heavily on oxidation resistance and detergents to keep things clean. I don't know how true or not true this is but I could see that being the case.
Price is usually somewhat indicative of oil performance. Look at all the most expensive oils and they all use ester/AN. Amsoil leaves them out for their XL and OE line, but uses a good slug in the SS.
Maybe that is what separates that real clean looking metal that @wwillson has shown in his engine pics vs the typical yellow varnish look you often see.
I've heard some refer to oils like that as dry oils - lacking solvency but relying heavily on oxidation resistance and detergents to keep things clean. I don't know how true or not true this is but I could see that being the case.
Price is usually somewhat indicative of oil performance. Look at all the most expensive oils and they all use ester/AN. Amsoil leaves them out for their XL and OE line, but uses a good slug in the SS.
Maybe that is what separates that real clean looking metal that @wwillson has shown in his engine pics vs the typical yellow varnish look you often see.
This makes sense as TriSyn produced some of the cleanest high mileage engines I’ve ever seen.
Also wear isn’t the main discriminatory between synthetic and conventional base stocks. In fact PAO exhibits slightly increased wear. But that’s just for the stock.
After that there are anti-wear additives plus the fact that today’s Group III synthetics are structurally the same as a conventional.
Synthetic stock gets you better cold weather performance and things such as better oxidation resistance and less deposit formation. Some also allow the use of less VM to achieve a specific winter rating.
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