Combustion chamber cleaning

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Originally Posted By: Warstud
What's the reason for changing the timing in the first place?
First you advance the timing now you retard it...I don't get it.
If it's stock...stick with the GM specs and leave it.


When I first got the car I was running nothing but 94 octane, and I had it dyno tuned to take full advantage of the extra timing, and so we were able to make a little bit more horsepower this way. Now that I've decided to run Shell 91 octane instead, I have brought that timing curve back down again.
 
I get pinging on Shell with a compact CC - IDK if its the detergent makeup. What is the spark plug heat range? - AC are notorious for skinny and hot ground straps - like NGK, they can cause preignition.
 
Originally Posted By: highmilegeguy
High reveving does not clean out the engine.

Yes it does - though its MORE effective if its not completely crusted up with oil detergents. You have to be at WOT also. Cylinder pressure is low in a throttled engine regardless of Compression ratio; less air in = low cyl pressure. Water does a magnificent cleanup agreed - though a lot of that ash and clinkers will go in the rings and maybe stick open a valve if your not lucky. Plus the oil will be toast and require a changeout.
 
If your going to steam clean, remove the O2 sensor, I killed one by doing the steam cleaning. Killed it.
 
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
I get pinging on Shell with a compact CC - IDK if its the detergent makeup. What is the spark plug heat range? - AC are notorious for skinny and hot ground straps - like NGK, they can cause preignition.


I'm running NGK iridium plugs in the stock heat range. I know I could lessen the detonation by going one step colder, but in another LS1 powered car that I had (98 Firebird Formula) I tried a set of plugs that were one step colder and they fouled out badly in just 13,000 miles.

I think for now I'm just going to try the Gumout Regane that I bought and if it doesn't work then I'll switch back to 94 octane instead. The other alternatives for carbon cleaning just don't sound safe to me at all.
 
Maybe try running something like MMO or ATF in the gastank at a higher dose? I put 1 qt of MMO and 1qt of ATF in my pathfinder and it ran awsome!

That would seem less likely to bend a rod.
 
Originally Posted By: Bigsyke
Maybe try running something like MMO or ATF in the gastank at a higher dose? I put 1 qt of MMO and 1qt of ATF in my pathfinder and it ran awsome!

That would seem less likely to bend a rod.


Even though MMO has cleaning benefit, but on modern engine the cleaning is limited to soft carbon cleaning. For hard carbon cleaning, PEA still the best. What i would do is to put 2 bottle of SI-1 at one full tank and run it until near empty before refuelling.
I noticed higher concentration of PEA have significant benefit on cleaning more effectively.
 
Red Line strongly recommended against using 2 bottles in one tank of gas. They said back to back treatments would be better. I was tempted to give it a try, but decided to call first and ask.
 
Patman: Ever try LCD FP+ in the fuel? I haven't had pinging problems but I noticed combustion chamber carbon noticeably decrease while running this stuff in the fuel. You've been on BITOG long enough to be familiar with the stuff, I'm sure, but it's a long-term, every-tank kind of treatment although there is a "shock dose".

It's not as powerful as SI-1 should be, but I observed the piston tops in my BMW go from visibly carboned to what appears to be clean metal with no other changes.
 
Why so afraid of seafoam or water injection? There are so many how to's on the internet that you would have to be totally clueless to hydro lock the engine, in which case you should not even open the hood in the first place.

Honestly, most of the hydro lock stories I read about, come from teenagers running their CAI equipped cars through deep puddles of water, not trying to de-carbon the engine. So while there is always a chance to hydro lock the engine during steam cleaning, the risk is no greater than forgetting to put in the oil in the crank case, or having a double gasket on the oil filter.
 
I see Kreen from Kano Labs.They claim it is a great carbon cleaner and can be added to the fuel.I just ordered a gallon and will try it on a few N* powered cars.
Cold carbon knock issues are a nightmare in these so this will be a good test.
 
Originally Posted By: Craig in Canada
Patman: Ever try LCD FP+ in the fuel? I haven't had pinging problems but I noticed combustion chamber carbon noticeably decrease while running this stuff in the fuel. You've been on BITOG long enough to be familiar with the stuff, I'm sure, but it's a long-term, every-tank kind of treatment although there is a "shock dose".





I used to use FP with every tankful a few years ago but I honestly didn't notice a difference (I had some pinging back then too) and I just got tired of having to add it all the time.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Red Line strongly recommended against using 2 bottles in one tank of gas. They said back to back treatments would be better. I was tempted to give it a try, but decided to call first and ask.

Maybe 2 bottles for non-SUV gas tank a bit too much, but for 18.5 gal tank I do not think there is a problem running with 1.5 bottle because it is just the same ratio people use SI-1 on the small compact car (with around 10.5 gal tanks). I would think SI-1 does not contain kerosene or alcohol that is bad when it is overdosed.
 
Originally Posted By: highmilegeguy
High reveving does not clean out the engine.



It helps clean if you keep the engine at the RPM where volumetric efficiency is the highest. What also helps clean the engine and catalytic converters is heavy acceleration.
 
If you really want to be able to advance the ignition timing and keep you motor clean, install a water/meth injection system. I am running a snow performance brand on my car.

Intake charge cooling, 116 octane, and intake/combustion chamber cleaning all at the same time.
 
Originally Posted By: Patman
Are there any truly effective products out there that can clean the carbon out of the combustion chamber that you only need to add to your gas tank? I've added two bottles of Redline Si-1 to my Corvette in the past month but yet I still have some pinging with 91 octane gas. It goes away with 94, but our 94 up here has 10% ethanol in it (while Shell 91 has none) so I lose 2 MPG, plus it costs 3-4 cents more per liter than 91 also. Since the Vette is my daily driver, those extra costs add up.

I know that a lot of people have seen great results at removing carbon buildup by sucking Seafoam into the engine or misting in some water, but I don't want to do that for two reasons (one is that I just changed my oil to Ultra and don't want to have to change it again right away, and two is that I'm afraid to hydrolock the engine if I do it wrong)

So has anyone here found an effective carbon cleaner that you put in the tank? (even if it takes a few tankfuls worth to do it I don't mind) I believe Canadian Tire just started selling Gumout Regane up here, what do you guys think about this stuff?


Try Amsoil HPinjector Tcw3 in the gasoline at ratio of 500:1.

Use 91 gas and see if the pinging goes away.
 
Old school BMW I6s need a periodic carbon cleaning. I have used water or a hotsoak to loosen it up. The advantage of a hot soak is that it will clean up gunky rings. I also do an Italian tune up on occasion. A high rpm run in 2nd gear will keep the car at 70mph @ 5300 rpm.
 
Can a lot of full throttle runs actually clean out the combustion chamber or will it only help to keep future carbon buildup?

I haven't been to the dragstrip in a couple of years, so I'm wondering if that lack of "full throttle action" is hurting my engine. Maybe I need to go there a couple of times each year and make 15-20 quarter mile runs each time to help keep the combustion chamber shiny clean!
grin2.gif
 
When you still have SI-1 in the tank, and you have let it "soaked" in few days slow driving, a couple full throttle will help to flake the deposits off. However without any additive, full throttle may only help a little with cleaning the dirt inside rather than cleaning carbon.. IMO
 
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