Collinite 476s or Seal & Shine for the ENTIRE winter?

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Sep 10, 2005
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Location
Erie, PA
Up north here I slather the chassis in krown / fluid film. However ive decided this year im not buying any more products that are going to sit and go bad on the shelf. I have good QTY of seal and shine, and well as lots of 476s paste wax. With the fact I will NOT be washing my car during the winter, other than rinsing with a hose to get most of the accumulated crud off, which of these two would you want on your car for the entire winter?
 
Rinsing your car with a hose is probably one of the worst things you can possibly do. The surface is too dirty to be safely dried and the leftover water will leave water spots that can etch the finish. At the very least, blow off as much water as possible using compressed air.

I would use 476s. By design, it is a true sealant....not a quick touch-up product.
 
Rinsing your car with a hose is probably one of the worst things you can possibly do. The surface is too dirty to be safely dried and the leftover water will leave water spots that can etch the finish. At the very least, blow off as much water as possible using compressed air.

I would use 476s. By design, it is a true sealant....not a quick touch-up product.

So it did not explain well enough. Because during the winter I do not have access to my power washer, I cannot properly "decontaminate" the surface with a foam cannon and hard rinse prior to putting wash microfibers on it. So I never touch the paint during the winter and just rely on the touchless automatic car washes when I can find one that lacks the undercarriage wash. (They are all gone now). When a wash is unavail, I just blast off the salt and crud with a hose and drive it till dry. Then in spring I do a proper 4 step power wash / foam / iron remover / then one more power wash before I rag it up...
 
So it did not explain well enough. Because during the winter I do not have access to my power washer, I cannot properly "decontaminate" the surface with a foam cannon and hard rinse prior to putting wash microfibers on it. So I never touch the paint during the winter and just rely on the touchless automatic car washes when I can find one that lacks the undercarriage wash. (They are all gone now). When a wash is unavail, I just blast off the salt and crud with a hose and drive it till dry. Then in spring I do a proper 4 step power wash / foam / iron remover / then one more power wash before I rag it up...
That is different. When you said "rinse off the paint," I was picturing my neighbor who would rinse off his car during lunch and allow the afternoon sun to dry it. :oops:
 
Rinsing your car with a hose is probably one of the worst things you can possibly do. The surface is too dirty to be safely dried and the leftover water will leave water spots that can etch the finish. At the very least, blow off as much water as possible using compressed air.

I would use 476s. By design, it is a true sealant....not a quick touch-up product.
I agree 100% on all your points. Being a former auto detailing addict (can't do anymore due to health) I did what I always used to do. Overkilled it. When I had my classic cars I accumulated so much cleaning & detailing products (till wife put her foot down) I could have opened a store. My "go to products when I was going to car shows was - Collinite / Mothers / Maguires products. Also on occasion in hot summer weather used a high priced product called "Liquid Glass" that was just amazing to use on BLACK vehicles. You needed sun glasses to gaze at my BLACK Chevelle once the Liquid glass was applied. I was going for maximum "shine" for the shows and then maximum "protection" when cars were asleep for the duration of cold , wet just plain nasty winter weather. Of all my classic cars ONLY ONE was ever rained on. That's how / why wife always called me the "over doer!" Not just me though. I had car show pals who went as far as buying $200 to $300 dollar water filter systems to attach to their supply of home "city water" that takes the impurities out of chemically treated "city water" that if left to dry on nice painted car surfaces will definitely leave your paint job with hard white spots that after a while will almost not come out short of having to do an old style "compounding" and that at times still does not remove those nasty spots.
 

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476. It's what I use. Seems to do fine over the griots 3 n 1.
I have bought several products and tools from Griots for years. Lots of their stuff comes at a steep price and some of the waxes, polishes, washes etc... are not that much greater than off the shelf products. I like the fact that if you can not find it, Griot's usually has it. They do sell some fine tools and products for $$$$$$$$$.
 
I have bought several products and tools from Griots for years. Lots of their stuff comes at a steep price and some of the waxes, polishes, washes etc... are not that much greater than off the shelf products. I like the fact that if you can not find it, Griot's usually has it. They do sell some fine tools and products for $$$$$$$$$.
I like the griots 3n1 sio2 , it's available at oriellys. but the collinite is longer lasting. I use the griots , but over the winter I use 476.
Dirt seems to come off a bit better with the 476. But the 3n1 is far easier and faster to use
 
I used 476s time ago and I liked so much, good looking but specially duration. I usually wax twice a year, 476s did handle it well.
 
845 is fine too
I used to go with 845 "Insulator wax" between coats (twice a year) of 476s. It seemed like 845 boosted the shine. Almost more like a polish. They made my Chevelle look like a mirror. So glad it came off a lot easier than the old Simoniz that was a killer to remove.
 
one that lacks the undercarriage wash

Do your local touchless washes all include underbody rinse?

The cheapest option here never has that option.

I put all my bets on seal & shine. Used it last winter with impressive results. Will use it again this winter.

I do not have experience with C476 but if it’s anything like 845 it never lasted me a full winter. I’d have to do a clay and prep in the spring once over. With Seal & shine I was able to just wash and reapply last spring.

Whatever salt formula their using here these days is different. Eats through just about anything. Seal and shine does get pretty weak by spring but it never required me to reapply in the winter.
 
I use the 845 on my 72 Chevy Van. It has worked very well especially since it is kept outdoors. View attachment 78415
Well I was lucky because where we live we do not deal with cold, rainy snowy winters or salted roads and have the luck of being able to garage our cars when ever not in use. It makes a hell of a difference. I only had to wax a maximum of twice a year and then polish or detail in between. I also never let a vehicle stay dirty for a day or more after rains etc.... Even if I had to go thru a car wash if I could not do it myself. The rain, dirt, mud or bugs were coming off immediately.
 
I use the 845 on my 72 Chevy Van. It has worked very well especially since it is kept outdoors. View attachment 78415
I always liked how easy to use their products were. Always went on and came off very easy. Collinite was introduced to me at several Super Chevy Shows in the early 1990s. Always ordered it cause I never found it in any stores. I still got some left in my garage even though I hardly ever do any hand waxing with bad shoulder and neck. One of my sons used it (845 insulator) on his black Honda Pilot and was blown away.
 
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