Cold weather warm up?
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I always idle until the temp gauge begins to move.
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
I always idle until the temp gauge begins to move.
This is the safest way to proceeded, if you can.
this guarantees you the ability to keep the windshield clear when you drive off.
Also, the motor will warm up MUCH faster if you leave the blower off or on low. Although, the quickest way to clear the windshield is with the blower at about 75%, IME, anyway. It saps the heat away from the coolant faster, but any heat in the coolant will end up blowing over the windshield defrosting it faster.
seems counterintuitive, but that's what i've found.
-4°F this morning.
gotta go let the truck run a bit before i go!
I always idle until the temp gauge begins to move.
This is the safest way to proceeded, if you can.
this guarantees you the ability to keep the windshield clear when you drive off.
Also, the motor will warm up MUCH faster if you leave the blower off or on low. Although, the quickest way to clear the windshield is with the blower at about 75%, IME, anyway. It saps the heat away from the coolant faster, but any heat in the coolant will end up blowing over the windshield defrosting it faster.
seems counterintuitive, but that's what i've found.
-4°F this morning.
gotta go let the truck run a bit before i go!
Originally Posted By: 2KBMW
I like the explanation in my GM manuals. Basically, after engine is started you wait till the engine rpm drops down then drive off slowly. I notice that the colder it is, the longer it takes for the idle to drop down. In these cold temperatures we've had, it can take up to a minute anyway for the idle rpm to drop down.
That's what I was getting last week with my Camaro doing sub-10F starts after work last week. It would fire and immediately go to 1300 rpm idle and gradually slow down after ~30 seconds.
I like the explanation in my GM manuals. Basically, after engine is started you wait till the engine rpm drops down then drive off slowly. I notice that the colder it is, the longer it takes for the idle to drop down. In these cold temperatures we've had, it can take up to a minute anyway for the idle rpm to drop down.
That's what I was getting last week with my Camaro doing sub-10F starts after work last week. It would fire and immediately go to 1300 rpm idle and gradually slow down after ~30 seconds.
Originally Posted By: Or
I think you are doing the right thing. I looked into this a while ago and the sanest/most scientific recommendation I could find was this:
a) Warm up 30 sec.
b) drive away, but stay under 2k rpm until water temp gauge is registering towards normal
I folllow this and I get little appreciable wear on my vehicles with good oil (current highest one is 230k Lexus and zero oil burning). The water temp gauge is a proxy measure for your oil temp getting up and flowing well. Not a direct measure, but once enough heat is transferring into the coolant to get it up to 150F or so or getting close to the thermostat opening temp, the oil should be flowing nicely and you can drive as normal. Makes a ton of physical sense to me and seems to work well, and a very simple rule to follow.
In our rare "winter" conditions, I do the same. However, the Regal's 4-cylinder wants to rev higher until it's finished warming up, possibly to give the transmission a chance to warm up in its turn. So I try to keep the revs below 3000. Usually the water temp gauge has moved to the 1/4 mark, and heat is available, by the time (2 miles) I reach the bridge, where I need to hustle a bit to fit into traffic. So I guess I'm okay.
I think you are doing the right thing. I looked into this a while ago and the sanest/most scientific recommendation I could find was this:
a) Warm up 30 sec.
b) drive away, but stay under 2k rpm until water temp gauge is registering towards normal
I folllow this and I get little appreciable wear on my vehicles with good oil (current highest one is 230k Lexus and zero oil burning). The water temp gauge is a proxy measure for your oil temp getting up and flowing well. Not a direct measure, but once enough heat is transferring into the coolant to get it up to 150F or so or getting close to the thermostat opening temp, the oil should be flowing nicely and you can drive as normal. Makes a ton of physical sense to me and seems to work well, and a very simple rule to follow.
In our rare "winter" conditions, I do the same. However, the Regal's 4-cylinder wants to rev higher until it's finished warming up, possibly to give the transmission a chance to warm up in its turn. So I try to keep the revs below 3000. Usually the water temp gauge has moved to the 1/4 mark, and heat is available, by the time (2 miles) I reach the bridge, where I need to hustle a bit to fit into traffic. So I guess I'm okay.
The car that I keep in the garage (Which almost never gets much below 40F) I drive off gently, immediately. I keep the RPM to 2k, with a light foot on the accelerator, until it is warm enough to blow heat from the vents.
The ones that stay outside, where it can get below 0F, I start with the clutch in, count to 10 slowly before I let the clutch out in neutral. I count off 10 mores seconds, then put it in gear, and drive off gently. If it is above freezing, I just fire it up and drive off gently. Same with my motorcycles.
The ones that stay outside, where it can get below 0F, I start with the clutch in, count to 10 slowly before I let the clutch out in neutral. I count off 10 mores seconds, then put it in gear, and drive off gently. If it is above freezing, I just fire it up and drive off gently. Same with my motorcycles.
I wish my neighbors that get up early would just idle down the street to the end of the block instead of sitting there in the driveway.
Where I live there is an easy roll down the street, and then a couple of miles of 30-35 mph streets before you have any option of getting on the highway.
My SUV will roll 10-15 mph without even touching the gas, then it will go 30 mph in 4th gear at about 1500 rpm with just 32 TPS.
According to my scangauge II, the TPS when I start up cold is usually 30-32 TPS anyway, while it drops to just over 20 TPS idling after it has warmed up.
I can't see why there would be any advantage to just sitting in the driveway idling 1500 rpm at 32 TPS rather than rolling down the street with essentially the same engine speed and throttle.
Where I live there is an easy roll down the street, and then a couple of miles of 30-35 mph streets before you have any option of getting on the highway.
My SUV will roll 10-15 mph without even touching the gas, then it will go 30 mph in 4th gear at about 1500 rpm with just 32 TPS.
According to my scangauge II, the TPS when I start up cold is usually 30-32 TPS anyway, while it drops to just over 20 TPS idling after it has warmed up.
I can't see why there would be any advantage to just sitting in the driveway idling 1500 rpm at 32 TPS rather than rolling down the street with essentially the same engine speed and throttle.
Simple rule:
As soon as the engine will run smoothly, drive it easy. Idle as short a time as possible. This especially applies to diesel engines (I've been trained at two diesel engine manufacturers). I have to admit, though, that I've only driven down to -20°F or so. Yes, I've driven while scraping the ice from the inside of the windshield.
A water jacket (block) heater is better than an oil pan heater. When it's really cold the block heater, oil pan heater, and battery heater are all needed.
A block heater has several advantages. It saves you money by prewarming the engine so the enrichment circuit uses extra fuel for a shorter time. It reduces engine wear due to the misaligned thermal expansion & contraction of a very cold engine. It means more comfort for the driver. And it reduces the nasty exhaust the cold, enriched, engine pukes into our air.
As soon as the engine will run smoothly, drive it easy. Idle as short a time as possible. This especially applies to diesel engines (I've been trained at two diesel engine manufacturers). I have to admit, though, that I've only driven down to -20°F or so. Yes, I've driven while scraping the ice from the inside of the windshield.
A water jacket (block) heater is better than an oil pan heater. When it's really cold the block heater, oil pan heater, and battery heater are all needed.
A block heater has several advantages. It saves you money by prewarming the engine so the enrichment circuit uses extra fuel for a shorter time. It reduces engine wear due to the misaligned thermal expansion & contraction of a very cold engine. It means more comfort for the driver. And it reduces the nasty exhaust the cold, enriched, engine pukes into our air.
It is almost always cool rainy foggy, etc. here. I have recommended to one of my neighbors that a simple electric heater in the cab would at least provide comfort and clear windows.
It would probably only take 20-30 minutes.
A block heater or oil pan heater would be even better.
It would probably only take 20-30 minutes.
A block heater or oil pan heater would be even better.
This is why I idle.
this was taken on one of the few days I let BITOG get into my head ... that and I'm sure I was running late for work.
This is what I saw for almost 2 miles:
until the heater got here:
at which point this is what I saw:
now, unless I see this:
I don't drive it.
because this:
really SUCKS! even on gravel where there is no traffic.
this was taken on one of the few days I let BITOG get into my head ... that and I'm sure I was running late for work.
This is what I saw for almost 2 miles:
until the heater got here:
at which point this is what I saw:
now, unless I see this:
I don't drive it.
because this:
really SUCKS! even on gravel where there is no traffic.
I used to idle for 3-4 minutes at a time during the winter, but now I only idle for 10-30 seconds and start driving slowly. I do this to cut down on fuel dilution. My manual says:
"Remember, your vehicle does not
require extended warm-up. After the
engine has started, allow the engine to
run for 10 to 20 seconds prior to placing
the vehicle in gear. In very cold
weather, however, give your engine a
slightly longer warm-up period."
-Thanks
"Remember, your vehicle does not
require extended warm-up. After the
engine has started, allow the engine to
run for 10 to 20 seconds prior to placing
the vehicle in gear. In very cold
weather, however, give your engine a
slightly longer warm-up period."
-Thanks
It was clear when I left and started fogging over as I was driving, so yes, I used the washers.
Fogging the inside of the windshield is caused by improper clearing of snow/ice. You need to clear the vents on the outside (typically below the wipers).
Running the heater/defroster on a cold start is another error. Run defrost at the lowest blower setting or not at all ... the heater removes heat from the motor; you want warm-up to go as quickly as possible.
Run the heater/defroster once the temp gauge starts to move, and refrain from using max blower until operating temp has been reached.
The above determines your warm-up time in sub-freezing temps. However if you are properly dressed for the outside temp, you could begin driving away after a brief idle.
Running the heater/defroster on a cold start is another error. Run defrost at the lowest blower setting or not at all ... the heater removes heat from the motor; you want warm-up to go as quickly as possible.
Run the heater/defroster once the temp gauge starts to move, and refrain from using max blower until operating temp has been reached.
The above determines your warm-up time in sub-freezing temps. However if you are properly dressed for the outside temp, you could begin driving away after a brief idle.
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I let my truck warm up for about 10 to 15 minutes reguardless of outside temp. I don't care how much gas it uses idling, I want to be warm when I leave for work! so for me its a non issue, my opinion starting it up and immediately driving off in extreme cold temps cant be good for anything
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Originally Posted By: sevenznuf
I let my truck warm up for about 10 to 15 minutes reguardless of outside temp. I don't care how much gas it uses idling, I want to be warm when I leave for work! so for me its a non issue, my opinion starting it up and immediately driving off in extreme cold temps cant be good for anything
To each his own, but your idle practices aren't good for anything.
Besides, you live in NC. 15 min to warm up your car is absurd. When it was 0F the other day and I realized my gloves and beanie were left in the car over night and that I had no time to bring them in and warm them up, I used my remote starter to warm the engine up for the 3-4 min I had left to get ready. I was nice and comfy within another couple of minutes of driving.
I let my truck warm up for about 10 to 15 minutes reguardless of outside temp. I don't care how much gas it uses idling, I want to be warm when I leave for work! so for me its a non issue, my opinion starting it up and immediately driving off in extreme cold temps cant be good for anything
To each his own, but your idle practices aren't good for anything.
Besides, you live in NC. 15 min to warm up your car is absurd. When it was 0F the other day and I realized my gloves and beanie were left in the car over night and that I had no time to bring them in and warm them up, I used my remote starter to warm the engine up for the 3-4 min I had left to get ready. I was nice and comfy within another couple of minutes of driving.
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Originally Posted By: sevenznuf
I let my truck warm up for about 10 to 15 minutes reguardless of outside temp. I don't care how much gas it uses idling, I want to be warm when I leave for work! so for me its a non issue, my opinion starting it up and immediately driving off in extreme cold temps cant be good for anything
What do you do when you leave work, start the truck 10-15 mins before your day is over?
I let my truck warm up for about 10 to 15 minutes reguardless of outside temp. I don't care how much gas it uses idling, I want to be warm when I leave for work! so for me its a non issue, my opinion starting it up and immediately driving off in extreme cold temps cant be good for anything
What do you do when you leave work, start the truck 10-15 mins before your day is over?
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Originally Posted By: meborder
It was clear when I left and started fogging over as I was driving, so yes, I used the washers.
Set the defroster to the windshield before you start driving, or as soon as it starts fogging up? Never had an issue with this.
It was clear when I left and started fogging over as I was driving, so yes, I used the washers.
Set the defroster to the windshield before you start driving, or as soon as it starts fogging up? Never had an issue with this.
hey guys I respect all your opinions but im gonna keep doing what im doing. NC or not it was 7 degress here few days ago so it gets cold here too!
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