This is why manufacturers are replacing guages with warning lights...OC owners.
Cold temps, not get up to operating temp?
- Thread starter Nick R
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I have a scangauge in my vehicle. It gives the exact temp reading. My "idiot" needle from the factory always stays in the same midway spot regardless if the actual temp is at 170 or 200 degrees. My normal full hot temp is 200 degrees. Get yourself a scangauge or ultragauge. They are so cool and informative. They tell you the real story of whats going on in real time.
Originally Posted By: bustednutz
I have a scangauge in my vehicle. It gives the exact temp reading. My "idiot" needle from the factory always stays in the same midway spot regardless if the actual temp is at 170 or 200 degrees. My normal full hot temp is 200 degrees. Get yourself a scangauge or ultragauge. They are so cool and informative. They tell you the real story of whats going on in real time.
That was what I meant by some gauges being glorified idiot lights. My factory needle swings in response to airflow over the radiator, load, cabin heat settings, etc. I can pretty much pinpoint when the thermostat opens and closes once the engine reaches full warmup. In single digits or less, I can watch the gauge slowly creep down when sitting at a stoplight.
I have a scangauge in my vehicle. It gives the exact temp reading. My "idiot" needle from the factory always stays in the same midway spot regardless if the actual temp is at 170 or 200 degrees. My normal full hot temp is 200 degrees. Get yourself a scangauge or ultragauge. They are so cool and informative. They tell you the real story of whats going on in real time.
That was what I meant by some gauges being glorified idiot lights. My factory needle swings in response to airflow over the radiator, load, cabin heat settings, etc. I can pretty much pinpoint when the thermostat opens and closes once the engine reaches full warmup. In single digits or less, I can watch the gauge slowly creep down when sitting at a stoplight.
My factory gauge works as above, IOW, it's a real gauge. However, many, particularly on newer cars, are just an idiot light with a needle.
Originally Posted By: bustednutz
My "idiot" needle from the factory always stays in the same midway spot regardless if the actual temp is at 170 or 200 degrees.
Yes, on most Fords the gauge just points to the "normal" zone all the time. Oil pressure, volts, coolant... All "normal". Maybe they put real gauges in the Mustang, I don't know.
My "idiot" needle from the factory always stays in the same midway spot regardless if the actual temp is at 170 or 200 degrees.
Yes, on most Fords the gauge just points to the "normal" zone all the time. Oil pressure, volts, coolant... All "normal". Maybe they put real gauges in the Mustang, I don't know.
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Originally Posted By: css9450
Originally Posted By: bustednutz
My "idiot" needle from the factory always stays in the same midway spot regardless if the actual temp is at 170 or 200 degrees.
Yes, on most Fords the gauge just points to the "normal" zone all the time. Oil pressure, volts, coolant... All "normal". Maybe they put real gauges in the Mustang, I don't know.
The coolant gauge is "real" (though heavily buffered). The rest of 'em, it just depends on the model. My '87 GT had all "real" gauges. They weren't the most accurate things in the world, but they DID work.
Originally Posted By: bustednutz
My "idiot" needle from the factory always stays in the same midway spot regardless if the actual temp is at 170 or 200 degrees.
Yes, on most Fords the gauge just points to the "normal" zone all the time. Oil pressure, volts, coolant... All "normal". Maybe they put real gauges in the Mustang, I don't know.
The coolant gauge is "real" (though heavily buffered). The rest of 'em, it just depends on the model. My '87 GT had all "real" gauges. They weren't the most accurate things in the world, but they DID work.
I did manage to get into engineering mode (which is REALLY cool by the way) and I will take some pictures tomorrow. But it hovers around 88 degrees celsius. It's really cool stuff, I don't even need a scangauge now lol
Originally Posted By: Nick R
I did manage to get into engineering mode (which is REALLY cool by the way) and I will take some pictures tomorrow. But it hovers around 88 degrees celsius. It's really cool stuff, I don't even need a scangauge now lol
88C is 190F, which is within the 180-210F operating range. The exact blow off point for your rad cap, or the temp that the electric fan starts spinning, will be some pre-set temp above that, but that info verifies that your engine is reaching proper operating temp to burn off moisture and prevent fuel dilution.
-Spyder
I did manage to get into engineering mode (which is REALLY cool by the way) and I will take some pictures tomorrow. But it hovers around 88 degrees celsius. It's really cool stuff, I don't even need a scangauge now lol
88C is 190F, which is within the 180-210F operating range. The exact blow off point for your rad cap, or the temp that the electric fan starts spinning, will be some pre-set temp above that, but that info verifies that your engine is reaching proper operating temp to burn off moisture and prevent fuel dilution.
-Spyder
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