Cold engine-Drive immediately or warm-up?

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I had a neighbor who would start his F-150 in the morning and rev it like crazy, especially during sub-zero temperatures. The car was old and ran just fine - no burning oil or anything.

So I think the idling till warm is a crock. I take it easy when the engine is cold but I start the car, put my seat belt on and drive off. No red-lining until the engine is warm, though.
 
I rarely have seen an engine that takes longer than 5 seconds to have proper oil pressure...usually it is in 2-3 seconds. With that said, I always allow my car to come up to operating temp before driving, unless there is an emergency, which is RARE. How long this takes depends on ambient temp...now that it is warm up here in the north it only takes 2-3 min...in the winter it takes double that to warm up. The vehicles I drive on a regular basis are all manual transmissions which makes the warm-up period more worthwhile...a cold transmission is tougher to shift smoothly.
 
Up North, if an engine could use a bit of warm up, it comes about naturally - as we clean the snow and ice of of the windows.

But 5 seconds or less is proper otherwise, with a cold engine.
 
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Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Up North, if an engine could use a bit of warm up, it comes about naturally - as we clean the snow and ice of of the windows.

But 5 seconds or less is proper otherwise, with a cold engine.

I'm pretty much in the same boat as MT2 . Start it up , clear the ice ,or frost then go easy on it for a while ( Trans temp gauge ). If there isn't anything to clear of the vehicle , I just let the oil pressure build to normal . I then take it easy on the vehicle until the trans temp comes up .
 
The ford engineers have publicly stated before that they do NOT recommend warming up an engine. Their recommendation was to turn the car on and wait about 8-10sec before putting it in gear. They said to not go hard/baby it (probably keep it under 3k RPMs) until the engine is up to temperature
 
Well, it hardly ever gets really cold in the PNW, but I would say there is little reason not to drive off pretty much right after putting on the seat belt. My biggest concern is the thermal expansion deformations in the engine, and for that reason I keep the RPMs low (like 1300 to 2200 max) for a little over the first 5 minutes of driving.

Originally Posted By: gathermewool
It's less about oil flow than it is about excessive heatup rates causing thermal stresses on engine components. The heat has to transfer from the combustion chamber to the cylinder walls/pistons/heads and then into the cooling system. Each of these is a different shape (and some times a different material) and will expand faster or slower than a contiguous component.


Steve wrote:

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The aforementioned cold start testing is a routine part of most engine development. Start it, gun it, apply full load, repeat!


I would say low RPMs and near WOT would bring the engine to operating temps in the fewest number of turns, and would actually be favorable wear wise. (Although you probably want to be over or near 1500 rpm for the oil pump to pump sufficiently.)
 
I start it and let it idle down to under 1000rpm before I put it in reverse and proceed to do a J-Turn out of the garage.

Just kidding about the J-Turn part. I just back it out gently and drive it slowly the half a block to the main road.
 
Originally Posted By: CivicFan
I had a neighbor who would start his F-150 in the morning and rev it like crazy, especially during sub-zero temperatures. The car was old and ran just fine - no burning oil or anything.

So I think the idling till warm is a crock. I take it easy when the engine is cold but I start the car, put my seat belt on and drive off. No red-lining until the engine is warm, though.


Reving an unloaded motor isn't the same as WOT on a back road.
 
I always start the car before putting my seatbelt on and winding down the window.

That gives it a few seconds of oil pressure and what not.

It's about 3km of 50km streets to the highway, so I've no qualms about straight up to speed when I hit the highway.
 
No one should have any qualms abot getting straight up to highway speeds immediately after startup. As long as you're not starting in sub-zero temps and flooring it to ge up to highway speeds, there's no issue. I'd argue that getting up to 55-65mph is a good thing, as the engine will warm up very quickly, while the load is still relatively low.
 
Originally Posted By: Bluestream
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
I dont doubt much, but I doubt that, Mega.


Actually Mega is correct, only they run the test at -20 not -40.

Here is from bbobynski GM engineer (Post 130078)

"In the case of the Mobil 1 in the Corvette I would hazard a guess that the number of dyno engines run with Mobil 1 is in the hundreds....like somewhere between 200 and 300 all total. These are engines that run for 200, 300 , 400 or more hours at full throttle, max RPM, max power and are then torn down and analyzed in a variety of ways for wear and other lubrication performance. This is on top of the countless specific bench and dyno tests run on the specific lubrication system, cold start lube system performance, cold overpressurizaration (start at -20 and go immediately to 5000 RPM), cold start field testing and driveability, engine cooling testing, etc. Fleets or test cars are running with the production intent designs and lubes on accelerated durability, endurance, emissions, track testing, etc... The products are testing far in excess of what any customer can do.
"

So how do they expain away the major piston slap problems with their V8s? All the leaky IMs? I Guess they were not as thorough as they made out. The proff is in the pudding and the pudding aint fully cooked. I do all my torture testing on a warm engine - I gotta give the 'lil bugger sumptin of a fighting chance
wink.gif
 
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Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Originally Posted By: Bluestream
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
I dont doubt much, but I doubt that, Mega.


Actually Mega is correct, only they run the test at -20 not -40.

Here is from bbobynski GM engineer (Post 130078)

"In the case of the Mobil 1 in the Corvette I would hazard a guess that the number of dyno engines run with Mobil 1 is in the hundreds....like somewhere between 200 and 300 all total. These are engines that run for 200, 300 , 400 or more hours at full throttle, max RPM, max power and are then torn down and analyzed in a variety of ways for wear and other lubrication performance. This is on top of the countless specific bench and dyno tests run on the specific lubrication system, cold start lube system performance, cold overpressurizaration (start at -20 and go immediately to 5000 RPM), cold start field testing and driveability, engine cooling testing, etc. Fleets or test cars are running with the production intent designs and lubes on accelerated durability, endurance, emissions, track testing, etc... The products are testing far in excess of what any customer can do.
"

So how do they expain away the major piston slap problems with their V8s? All the leaky IMs? I Guess they were not as thorough as they made out. The proff is in the pudding and the pudding aint fully cooked. I do all my torture testing on a warm engine - I gotta give the 'lil bugger sumptin of a fighting chance
wink.gif



ARCOgraphite, piston slap is very normal for a modern design engine. See post #129898 below from GM Engineer bbobynski


Are you talking about piston slap during the first few minutes of warmup..??


If so...that is what it is. Nothing to fear or nothing really wrong...just the piston noise until the piston warms up to fill the clearance to the bore.

Pistons rock as they cross TDC where the thrust load from the rod angularity shifts from one side to the other. This makes noise. Harmless..but it is the source of piston slap in most all situations.

To prevent this, pistons are designed with long, tapered, flexible skirts so that they can be fitted very tight in the bores when the bore and piston is cold. The taper of the skirt and flexibility of the skirt then prevents scuffing when the piston is hot. Also, the piston pin in OEM production pistons is always offset to one side....it is NOT in the middle of the piston. By offsetting the pin in the piston, artificial thrust load is created to control the piston "rocking" as it crosses over TDC.

Unfortunately, all of the above control techniques, common in past model engines to the extreme, create excess piston mass, cause friction and cost power and fuel economy. With the desire to build in as much power and free-revving capability and to improve fuel economy as much as possible thru friction reduction these design features are pushed in the other direction on modern engines.

Piston pin offset has been reduced over the years to a bare minimum today to reduce the thrust load generated and reduce friction. Pistons have been lightened up considerably by shortening the skirts. This creates less rotating/reciprocating mass which is good for power, free revving capability and fuel economy. Light weight pistons are great but the skirts, by necessity, are short making it hard to make them both strong and flexible and the shorter ckirts make them more prone to rocking.

Unfortunately, when the performance and fuel economy oriented pistons are run cold they are very prone to "slap" until they warm up to operating temperature.

The piston designers and development engineers are always treading the fine line between piston slap cold and friction and power/fuel economy loss when the engine is warm.

It is possible that you are hearing piston noise from an engine that is on the "high limit" for piston clearance so that it makes some noise cold. The good news is that the condition is harmless and that engine is probably a little more powerful (due to less friction) than a "quiet" counterpart. The bad news is that...it makes noise cold
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Originally Posted By: gathermewool
No one should have any qualms abot getting straight up to highway speeds immediately after startup. As long as you're not starting in sub-zero temps and flooring it to ge up to highway speeds, there's no issue. I'd argue that getting up to 55-65mph is a good thing, as the engine will warm up very quickly, while the load is still relatively low.


Highway speeds are very easy on a cold engine. My Pathfinder is only revving about 1750 rpm @ 60; 2100 @70, and slightly over 2400 @ 80.
 
Originally Posted By: 1999nick
Originally Posted By: gathermewool
No one should have any qualms abot getting straight up to highway speeds immediately after startup. As long as you're not starting in sub-zero temps and flooring it to ge up to highway speeds, there's no issue. I'd argue that getting up to 55-65mph is a good thing, as the engine will warm up very quickly, while the load is still relatively low.


Highway speeds are very easy on a cold engine. My Pathfinder is only revving about 1750 rpm @ 60; 2100 @70, and slightly over 2400 @ 80.


Wow, thats low. My Explorer revs 2250 at 60 mph. What year is the Pathfinder?
 
Originally Posted By: Bluestream
Originally Posted By: 1999nick
Originally Posted By: gathermewool
No one should have any qualms abot getting straight up to highway speeds immediately after startup. As long as you're not starting in sub-zero temps and flooring it to ge up to highway speeds, there's no issue. I'd argue that getting up to 55-65mph is a good thing, as the engine will warm up very quickly, while the load is still relatively low.


Highway speeds are very easy on a cold engine. My Pathfinder is only revving about 1750 rpm @ 60; 2100 @70, and slightly over 2400 @ 80.


Wow, thats low. My Explorer revs 2250 at 60 mph. What year is the Pathfinder?


It is a 2005 model. Two wheel drive, 5 speed automatic. It has the 4 liter V-6, 270 hp @ 5600 rpm. I've been retired 9 years so I don't have to drive too much. It has 46,000 miles on it right now, Looks like I'm averaging 9,000 miles a year.
 
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