Coasting to a stop vs down shifting to a stop in manual transmissions

Do you guys actually look at the tach to know when to upshift? I just shift by how the engine sounds/feels. On a very quiet vehicle that may not work as well though.
There's no point in looking at the tach because I don't think there's anything that says when to upshift. Owner's manuals probably give "suggested" shift points but those will be based on fuel economy, comfort, etc.
 
Manuals are standard here in Europe and generally we are taught to downshift as we slow. In most cars I let the revs get to about 1,000rpm and when downshifting just give the throttle a little nudge to bring the revs up. Downshifts are smooth, seemless and waiting till the revs drop right down before dropping into the next gear means the engine isn't screaming when you downshift.

The ZF8 in my BMW 520d seems to mimic this also as you slow. However being a mild hybrid my BMW is always in gear while slowing to charge the battery using the starter/generator.
 
Do you guys actually look at the tach to know when to upshift? I just shift by how the engine sounds/feels. On a very quiet vehicle that may not work as well though.

In my truck, if I'm towing i'll use the tach on hills. Usually shift up at 4500 and down at 2500. Otherwise no.

The torque drops off pretty sharply under 2500 and usually shifting UP at 4500 on a hill will put it right in the torque curve once the clutch is out in the next gear.
 
While I do know in person some who survived accidents just because they were wearing seatbelts
I never heard of a single example of someone surviving because he stayed in gear and was able
to accelerate. It's just forum blahblah. Some particularly bored create issues where there isn't one.
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I have had many close calls next to trucks who decide they want my lane too, only with power I got out of those situations. There will always be more times you need power than you wont. You just wont know it till you have the power.

Anyway, this is how it is done, watch an Australian legend racing and having a chat as well.

 
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if i compare my xsara 1999 vs 2017 c3lll car, it is bloody obvious the amount of engine braking.
new one is very minimal... so it makes sense to keep in gear. (less hassle)
also new cars overcharge agm battery (15v engine braking); car will then stop using alternator (and will go from battery only) to save some fuel.

fuel cutoff does not happen in small revs engine braking, because that is skid hazard (winter)
on old car i could feel that point. 3000 or so

i experienced many bad situations, where downhill braking immediately would skid, but with engine braking i could safely go down.
or braking into winter corner it was much easier to skid, when in neutral..
Most reasonably modern cars should go into fuel cut at just above idle RPM. My Honda Civic will stay in fuel cut until ~1200 RPM or so, at which point the injectors will come back on and the car will continue idling along. I do see how a sudden fuel cut could cause a skid though, especially in low gears at low speeds. In very low traction scenarios, I would think coasting and just slowing down with the brakes would be a bit safer.
 
If you’re familiar with your driving environment (as in once this light goes red I’ve got a minute or more wait) slip the car in neutral and wait it out.
Not familiar with the area, and I’m approaching a light I’ll just stay in the high gears, down to about 1500 rpms. If traffic picks up, select the proper gear to move with the traffic. You gotta play it as you go. The wear I’m trying to avoid: clutch, throw out bearing, engine thrust bearing and synchro. 90% of driving is familiar (work, school, market etc.), and you shouldn’t have to think about it.
 
The old-timers all learned on cars without a tach...... Of course, they only had three forward gears to pick from, so it was easy to choose the right one. :)

It was maybe mid-80s with a 5 speed on the floor. And on top of that it was the first vehicle I’d ever driven with a floor mounted stick. I was used to the stick on a center console.

I can usually do it in my own car by feel, but I’d never driven the pickup before.
 
The fun comes from hunting gears without a tach. I borrowed my uncle's Toyota pickup once to haul some stuff, and it was really odd trying to figure out when to shift with just a rectangular speedo.
Back in the day Toyota put the recommended shift points in the owner's manual... iirc (from memory):
15 mph, 30 mph, 45 mph, 50 mph...

The Aisin 6-speed automatic on my old car, in "Sport" mode, downshifts as I slow down
 
I have had many close calls next to trucks who decide they want my lane too, only with power I got out of those situations. There will always be more times you need power than you wont. You just wont know it till you have the power.

Anyway, this is how it is done, watch an Australian legend racing and having a chat as well.



We're talking about stopping at a red traffic light. In such a situation I need stopping power, not engine power.
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We're talking about stopping at a red traffic light. In such a situation I need stopping power, not engine power.
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Approachibg a red light is when more than the occasional driver suddenly cuts in front or behind me, hopefully without a collision occurring. This happens typically on a multi lane city street with a light at every block. A driver approaches a red light with a car stopped at the light ahead. The driver decides to change lanes so he can pass the perceived obstacle. We are talking about pretty dense traffic with speeds of 50 mph (35mph posted) between lights. Factor in that people don't keep their distance to begin with. If you leave more than a car's length room you are inviting people to cut in. It's not everywhere like that.
 
We're talking about stopping at a red traffic light. In such a situation I need stopping power, not engine power.
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You were talking about accidents and seatbelts not pulling up at red lights. Anyways, I just thought I would broaden the topic. Also, most people who don't change down at anytime to come to a stop also don't change down at the appropriate times going downhill and ride the brakes in gear anyway.
 
There's no point in looking at the tach because I don't think there's anything that says when to upshift. Owner's manuals probably give "suggested" shift points but those will be based on fuel economy, comfort, etc.
For awhile, cars used to come with a shift light, or "up" arrow on the gauge face. We used to have a Civic, for example, but the light came on super early because I think it was programmed to give the best possible MPG.

Do cars still have shift lights? My new WRX has nothing, but it's my first manual car in fifteen years, and my first brand-new manual car ever.
 
For awhile, cars used to come with a shift light, or "up" arrow on the gauge face. We used to have a Civic, for example, but the light came on super early because I think it was programmed to give the best possible MPG.

Do cars still have shift lights? My new WRX has nothing, but it's my first manual car in fifteen years, and my first brand-new manual car ever.
My '13 Focus has the shift indicator. It's definately programmed for effciency.
 
That's not my impression when reading this discussion.
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ahhaahah - yeah, I don't think this is quite as absolute as that with never downshifting on one end of the spectrum and rev-match/heal-toe/racer-boi downshifting at each stop on the other. I think most of us probably downshift when necessary...
 
ahhaahah - yeah, I don't think this is quite as absolute as that with never downshifting on one end of the spectrum and rev-match/heal-toe/racer-boi downshifting at each stop on the other. I think most of us probably downshift when necessary...
Maybe not on this forum but you would be surprised how many can't drive manual properly in the real world. Nearly every person I have got into a manual car with as a passenger wasn't really fully aware about properly driving manual especially the understanding and proper use of the friction point. It's also not taught as well anymore and here in Australia you can opt to have a 'automatic licence' only for your first 5 years of driving.
 
I drive manuals and I usually just downshift to an intermediate gear, without clutch sleeping because throttle blip, then let the engine brake and main brake until the fuel cut-off stops and then disengage clutch to stop. I don't go downshifting through multiple gears, and for me this provide the best passenger comfort.

Coasting in neutral is a no go for me because it degrades maximal breaking tolerance until tire slip, compared to breaking in gear.
 
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