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- Dec 30, 2006
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I always shift into N and coast/use the brakes to stop. I never use the "engine braking" technique.
Coasting causes less wear 'n tear on the vehicle but it will cause you to fail a driver's test. Im personally not a fan of the downshifting method because it puts a lot of strain on the driveline.I'm on a manual transmission enthusiast page on Facebook and holy hell this debate is heated. Basically many members believe if you coast to a stop in Neutral you should go buy an automatic and quit driving a stick immediately......they also say coasting causes more clutch wear. I could be wrong but isn't coasting easier on the clutch because your not slipping it each time you down shift? Many in the group say leaving it in neutral causes constant wear. I can personally drive either way but unless I am having fun I usually just coast to a red light ect. I understand the argument of less vehicle control ect but I was always taught it produces less clutch wear and synchro wear? How do you do it? Is one superior over the other. I personally think both have their place and executed correctly both can be viable options. But yeah what do you guys think?
You also typically get a "dashpot" high idle as long as the speed sensor shows some MPH. It settles down when the car stops to idle.I believe engine braking creates a vacuum when the air intake is completely shut off. For idle there's usually an idle control valve. But the ECU can figure out that there's no accelerator and the revs are still reasonably high enough that the vehicle is coasting.
I always shift into N and coast/use the brakes to stop. I never use the "engine braking" technique.
Sorry, the brake pad thing is not really relevant. REV matching always, been driving sticks in many countries and always down shifted with double clutch, done it 56 years !! couldn't change, muscle memory !! BTW changed one clutch in that entire time, and that was on a car i bought usedA guy that specialized in rebuilding manual transmissions told it to me like this: Brake pads are less expensive than transmissions and clutches.
When you consider how a dry-clutch DSG works, such as VW's two 7-speed models,
the mechanical technology is not much different over a manual gearbox.
However, while driving, the DSG always has one clutch open, continually loading that grease-lubed throwout bearing.
When downshifting it never bothers to double-clutch and on every shift mercilessly slams it into what gear it imagines you might need next. ..... On a downhill it always downshifts to help slow the car and rev matches on clutch changeover but does not double-clutch the gear shift itself.
If it miscalculates that preset gear then it tries another without any concerns regarding wear.
The rate of shifting of a DSG is perhaps 10 times more than what any human would ever bother doing yet the gearbox designed service life I understand is 300,000 km with a clutch replacement intended at 200,000 km.
It's been a while for a stick shift, but I would pop it into neutral most of the time. Being able to figure what gear to have it in when you want to accelerate is more interesting. Like when you don't come to a complete stop. I did like accelerating and then backing out of it and listening to the exhaust on sports cars. Rowing through the gears or downshifting is more fun when a car has a sweet exhaust system.
The rev-matching on the newer Mustangs looks to work pretty slick. I agree on your last sentence, I still wouldn't downshift through the gesrs to slow down even if auto rev-matching was going on. Rev matching would be good for track use or driving on tight twisty roads where shifting all the time.I'd be interested in what automatic rev matching does though, but even then I'd probably just coast into the stop and shift into neutral.
The old-timers all learned on cars without a tach...... Of course, they only had three forward gears to pick from, so it was easy to choose the right one.The fun comes from hunting gears without a tach. I borrowed my uncle's Toyota pickup once to haul some stuff, and it was really odd trying to figure out when to shift with just a rectangular speedo.
My '92 Toyota truck didn't have a tach, really not a big deal...you just know when it's time!The old-timers all learned on cars without a tach...... Of course, they only had three forward gears to pick from, so it was easy to choose the right one.
Reminds me of the S-10 pickup I had for a few years, a 5-speed. Like most (all?) S-10s, it didn't have a tach, but when I found out the fully-loaded S-10 Blazers (probably automatics only) were available with a tach, I had to have one! I searched the junkyards for months until I found the gauge cluster and to install it in my truck I had to combine parts from both clusters to make it work. My truck used a vehicle speed sensor, for example, and the Blazer used a speedometer cable. But once I had it working right I was the coolest guy in town for a couple years, with a 5-speed S-10 with tach. Still wasn't fast enough to get out of its own way though....My '92 Toyota truck didn't have a tach, really not a big deal...you just know when it's time!
I go by sound/feel also. I think everyone does, eventually, even those who started out by faithfully following the tach.Do you guys actually look at the tach to know when to upshift? I just shift by how the engine sounds/feels.