Cleanest burning oils

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There is an auto parts store in Yokohama Japan called Super Autobacs. Cool place to walk around and they have a lot of different motor oils on sale, all very expensive and yes, the cans have a lot of Japanese on them... but enough English to tell what they are.

Two things I noticed, first of all was they mostly use metal cans for oil. Not sure why not plastic like we use, but may have something to do with Japanese laws on recycling. Secondly, I noticed quite a few cans of oil specifically for rotary engines. Must be a popular engine over there... I'll have to take some pictures next time
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Originally Posted By: Scout1
Must be a popular engine over there... I'll have to take some pictures next time
smile.gif



Well mostly Mazda and just barely Suzuki both did more with the German design Wankel in the last 50 years than anybody else. So makes sense
 
Originally Posted By: jayg
Originally Posted By: Scout1
Must be a popular engine over there... I'll have to take some pictures next time
smile.gif



Well mostly Mazda and just barely Suzuki both did more with the German design Wankel in the last 50 years than anybody else. So makes sense


Rotary Suzuki? Is that a Bike?

I remember the NSU, I see one driving around regularly.
 
Originally Posted By: brandini
OMP adapter and inject 2 stroke!

Ideally this.

If not-

Originally Posted By: MolaKule
Well, if you can run synthetics, Pennzoil Ultra is about the most clean burning and low volativity oil on the market today.


Then this.
 
Originally Posted By: supercity
Originally Posted By: jayg
Originally Posted By: Scout1
Must be a popular engine over there... I'll have to take some pictures next time
smile.gif



Well mostly Mazda and just barely Suzuki both did more with the German design Wankel in the last 50 years than anybody else. So makes sense


Rotary Suzuki? Is that a Bike?

I remember the NSU, I see one driving around regularly.


Yep, the Suzuki RE5. Really neat!

Suzuki_RE5_Rotary_1975.jpg
 
Originally Posted By: jayg
On all my former rotaries, I NEVER used Synthetic. Especially my 93 Twin Turbo which had stock oiling with the omp. I used 5w30 conventional Castrol and also premixed 2 cycle oil with the fuel for lubrication of the apex seals.


My 89 Turbo II FC had a street port and I used a thicker Idemitsu 15w40 (I believe that was the weight) as conventional as that motor revved to 10.5k rpms.


For your situation, I would run 5w30 conventional, maybe Peak/Nextgen/Castrol GTX, and monitor the oil level closely. I would not premix your fuel if I were you in an RX8. Even with an ashless 2 cycle oil , I wouldn't want to effect your cat. I only premixed the fuel on cars with no cat for the track. They have way less moving parts but they are just goofy, have fun.



Okay, but back in the 80's the Rotaries recommended Mobil 1 synthetic.
 
Originally Posted By: MolaKule
Well, if you can run synthetics, Pennzoil Ultra is about the most clean burning and low volativity oil on the market today.


+1
 
Originally Posted By: MolaKule
Originally Posted By: jayg
On all my former rotaries, I NEVER used Synthetic. Especially my 93 Twin Turbo which had stock oiling with the omp. I used 5w30 conventional Castrol and also premixed 2 cycle oil with the fuel for lubrication of the apex seals.


My 89 Turbo II FC had a street port and I used a thicker Idemitsu 15w40 (I believe that was the weight) as conventional as that motor revved to 10.5k rpms.


For your situation, I would run 5w30 conventional, maybe Peak/Nextgen/Castrol GTX, and monitor the oil level closely. I would not premix your fuel if I were you in an RX8. Even with an ashless 2 cycle oil , I wouldn't want to effect your cat. I only premixed the fuel on cars with no cat for the track. They have way less moving parts but they are just goofy, have fun.



Okay, but back in the 80's the Rotaries recommended Mobil 1 synthetic.


The Rotaries? As in who, Mazda? I'm not understanding that statement.

None of the big rotary tuners had ever advocated that. If you are in to these motors you know NOT to go to a dealer or follow their recommendation, they don't know anything about servicing them.

I'm going to listen to Mazdatrix, Peter Perral Supercars, etc etc

This is from the Mazdatrix website:

Here is our answer:
The Rotary engine has an oil injection system that injects small amounts of oil into either the intake tract, carb, or rotor housing (depending on year/model). This is needed to lubricate the various internal seals and surfaces.

The injected oil MUST BURN, and must burn clean. The root answer to the question is that not ALL synthetic oils burn, and not ALL of them burn clean. (Idemitsu Rotary Engine Oil is the only known exception - see below)The ones that do not burn accumulate until they foul the spark plugs.
The ones that do not burn clean can leave residues of various substances (like ash? plastic? non-organic sand?) that accumulate until the spark plugs foul, or a seal sticks -- could be apex seal, side seal, corner seal, or oil control ring. The normal consequence of a stuck seal is an engine tear down.

In the many years we have been involved in rotary engines, we have NEVER had a problem with GOOD petroleum based oils. They work fine! They are less expensive than synthetics. (We use Castrol 20-50 GTX). They burn clean, etc. etc.
The problem with answering the original question is that it is NOT a simple yes or no. We DO simplify it to a "NO", but that is because we do NOT know whether the specific brand of synthetic the customer has in mind will work. AND, if it does not work, how long will it be before the damage shows up, and how bad will the damage be? Maybe it will take 10,000 miles, maybe 50,000 miles?? Maybe the engine will fail due to something unrelated to the oil, and there won't be enough left to determine that there was damage from the oil.

WE are not willing to take that gamble, are you ?
Then, take a minute to think of WHY you want to use a synthetic. If a rotary engine (properly maintained, oil changes at 3K intervals, etc.) can still be running fine at over 200,000 miles, the engine does not need any more cooling, the gas milage will not be any better, etc. etc. WHY do you want to spend more $$ and gamble on engine and/or spark plug damage?

We are not chemists, and we do not have the time, $$'s, nor inclination to do 100K mile tests of various synthetics in rotary engines.

The only exception to the above answer is with Idemitsu Synthetic Rotary Engine Oil. Idemitsu has been making synthetic oil specifically for the rotary engine for decades. They have only recently come to the US and we are happy to be able to sell it. We've known about it since the beginning, but until recently, it's only been available in Japan. Click here to go to our oil page.

We DO use Neo synthetic in the transmissions and rear ends with great results.

Anyway - that is the MAZDATRIX version of the synthetic question.






This is coming from people who build and warranty their motors, they have seen it all and they know want to put in these motors to make them happy and last in all conditions. Mazda does not, thats why they just replaced motors all the time.
 
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Originally Posted By: MolaKule
Well, if you can run synthetics, Pennzoil Ultra is about the most clean burning and low volativity oil on the market today.


I'm curious how you determine this? PU has very low NOACK but this is related to oil volatility. Clean burning I would think refers to less ash left behind which from what I understand is more related to additives (metalic) than the base oil.

What do you think?
 
Originally Posted By: jromano
Hello, the subject of this post might seem weird at first, but I recently bought an RX8 which has different oil needs than most cars. It injects and burns a small amount of oil by design. So the main priority is a low-ash oil that will burn cleanly with minimal carbon buildup.

I'm thinking that group IV synthetics should be avoided. A high-ester oil like Redline 0w30 seems like a good option, but I'm not sure if it would really burn any cleaner than regular conventional oil. The most recommended premix is Motul 710, so it seems logical to want an engine oil with similar properties if it's being injected.

Does anyone have recommendations? Thanks


Jromano,

There are lots of smart OIL people on here but you really need to talk to ROTARY expert honestly. The typical mechanics of regular internal combustion engines don't typically apply with these.

I would follow Mazdatrix recommendations (they have seen it all) and they are one of the most respected rotary tuners out there. Also if you are no already on Nopistons.net and rx7club.com , I encourage you to go there. They have helped me out over the years learning about these fun motors.
 
Yes there are syn' oils that burn cleaner than others including some dino's, but the cleanest burning oils on the market TODAY synthetic.

Three of the cleanest are Valvoline Synpower, AMSOIL Signature Series and there is probably no oil motor oil cleaner burning than Castrol Edge as determined by the TEOST ASTM D6335 test with only 3.5 mg by weight.
IIRC most mineral oils have deposits around 25-30 mg.
 
Originally Posted By: jayg
None of the big rotary tuners had ever advocated that. If you are in to these motors you know NOT to go to a dealer....

I think that was Mola's point - Mazda has made some odd recommendations over the years. And with the mention of 20w-50, this would be one of the few circumstances I'd agree with something like that. After all, if one has to be cautious with synthetics or synthetic blends, perhaps 5w-20 isn't the best choice for these engines (aside from the anecdotal evidence that such a grade is not best for longevity in the rotaries).
 
Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: jayg
None of the big rotary tuners had ever advocated that. If you are in to these motors you know NOT to go to a dealer....

I think that was Mola's point - Mazda has made some odd recommendations over the years. And with the mention of 20w-50, this would be one of the few circumstances I'd agree with something like that. After all, if one has to be cautious with synthetics or synthetic blends, perhaps 5w-20 isn't the best choice for these engines (aside from the anecdotal evidence that such a grade is not best for longevity in the rotaries).


I guess I just didn't get his post at all. It seems pretty confusing to me when I say I would use a conventional cheap oil and then "Okay, but back in the 80's the Rotaries recommended Mobil 1 synthetic" is the response. If by "the Rotaries" he means Mazda, and he still isn't saying whether he is agreeing or disagreeing with them, I don't know where we're going with that.
 
Mola knows his stuff better than just about anyone else on the board, so beware. He may be laying a trap for you or me.
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But, taking the points at face value, it's rare, but it does happen that one has to take manual recommendations with a grain of salt. Saying no synthetics or semi-synthetics while specifying 5w-20 is a head scratcher. It's a lot like the air compressor manual that I have that on one page recommends a ND 30 grade, yet the next page calls explicitly for Mobil 1 10w30. Now, how is that even remotely close to a non-detergent monograde?

In the end, I think rotaries are poorly understood by the general motoring populace. I haven't seen any evidence that these types of vehicles are well served by playing games with ultra-light oils to improve CAFE numbers.
 
Originally Posted By: Garak

In the end, I think rotaries are poorly understood by the general motoring populace. I haven't seen any evidence that these types of vehicles are well served by playing games with ultra-light oils to improve CAFE numbers.


This more than anything. Don't try to get better mileage or any efficincy beside extra horsepower out of one, it's not what they are built for. People that baby them, kill them. People that put boutique oil in them, aren't doing the motors any favors. People that rev the [censored] out of the with cheap oil that stay on top of the levels, make them last.


I learned with many years of hands on experience owning rotaries, that conventional wisdom goes out the window when you are operating a machine with 2 spinning Doritos inside of it.
 
Originally Posted By: supercity
If the oil injection system is removed and replaced with pre mix, can it be assumed that pretty much any oil can be used?

I have heard of such a thing being done, but I don't know how successful it's been or how widespread.

@jayg: Quite right. There are a lot of things about the engines that the average motorist just does not understand. These days, "flooding" isn't a concept the average person would understand. Of course, people don't check their oil levels enough to own a rotary in the first place.
 
When Mercedes were playing Wankel, their "oil injection" was a damp spot on the lower side of the inlet manifold that "wept" oil into a creeping oily layer that intercepted the sweeping apex seal (they were peripheral port), placing the oil exactly where it needed to be.

Premix makes most of the oil enter the chamber in the bulk volume, rather than where it's needed...but then on a sideplate ported engine, not sure how would be best either.
 
Thank you for the replies everyone. I've been doing some research on rotaries and am starting to understand them better.

RX8 oil injector diagram

There are some concerns that the angled injectors don't provide adequate lubrication to the center of the seals, and that Mazda initially set the injection rate too low for emissions purposes. This is presumably why some people use premix for additional protection. I don't see the harm in that, but it seems like most of the kinks were worked out with ECU revisions after the first model year.

As far as the oil choice, I think I'm sold on synthetic for now. The function of the oil is to cool the seals just as much as it is to lubricate them. And according to the RacingBeat link below, oil temperatures are up to 10 degrees lower with synthetics. I also found reports by Royal Purple and Amsoil claiming that their modern synthetics burn just as clean as conventional oil (if not cleaner) in rotary applications.

http://www.racingbeat.com/mazda/performance/rotary-tech-tips/synthetic-oils.html
http://royalpurpleconsumer.com/why-rp/faqs/
http://www.amsoil.com/techservicesbulletin/motoroil/tsb mo-2007-09-06 mazda rotary.pdf

With that said, I purchased Pennzoil Ultra 5w30 for my first oil change, based on the recommendations here.
 
Originally Posted By: jromano

There are some concerns that the angled injectors don't provide adequate lubrication to the center of the seals, and that Mazda initially set the injection rate too low for emissions purposes. This is presumably why some people use premix for additional protection. I don't see the harm in that, but it seems like most of the kinks were worked out with ECU revisions after the first model year.


It is a side-port engine, so the apex seal's contact is never broken with the housing, like the older peri rotaries. Any oil that is caught by the apex seal will continue to be wiped along without disruption from the port. The side seals though, are passing over the ports and should rightly get oil sprayed on their path. The angled injectors seems like prudent move on the MSP.

Quote:

As far as the oil choice, I think I'm sold on synthetic for now. The function of the oil is to cool the seals just as much as it is to lubricate them. And according to the RacingBeat link below, oil temperatures are up to 10 degrees lower with synthetics. I also found reports by Royal Purple and Amsoil claiming that their modern synthetics burn just as clean as conventional oil (if not cleaner) in rotary applications.

http://www.racingbeat.com/mazda/performance/rotary-tech-tips/synthetic-oils.html
http://royalpurpleconsumer.com/why-rp/faqs/
http://www.amsoil.com/techservicesbulletin/motoroil/tsb mo-2007-09-06 mazda rotary.pdf

With that said, I purchased Pennzoil Ultra 5w30 for my first oil change, based on the recommendations here.


Excellent choice!

We here at BITOG don't subscribe to voodoo science, and just being scared and not willing to try synthetics, or not being willing to understand how oil chemistry has changed over the years or the process of deposit formation, doesn't fly around here. Even Mobil has tested their synthetics (supersyn version) in the Rotary and found it superior. Unfortunately they cannot officially make a recommendation. Also, I wouldn't run an ester oil in a crankcase oil-burning rotary, the concerns of gum formation may actually be justified. HOWEVER, with discrete OMP reservoir conversion, then ester is superior- particularly in high-boost racing.

As for premixing, it's always a sound idea in a rotary, always. As for separating the OMP to a discrete source, 2T oil is best used. Adjust metering accordingly.

Enjoy your rotary. Those things are so smooth
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