Conventional Oil in Direct Injection Engines?
- Thread starter gregoron
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Originally Posted By: bbhero
If and I mean IF I ever bought a VW.... I would ask Edyvw for a recommendation. He is well versed, experienced with the cars, and very smart too. Though I question his sanity in "other" issues
Just pulling your chain Edyvw !
People from region where his origins are...are bigest VAG (vw) lovers and finest vw mehanics
Regarding his post about sludgy 1.8Ts...
I will add....yes there were problems because owners neglected those engines...but that problem is/was more because VAG designed too small oil sump...and oil overcooked because that in in engine...
Add...too long OCI subscribed from factory...
And stupid user who wanted to put mineral oil in that engine...and u got recepie for disaster
To avoid that.....
people were sugested to:
1) shorten OCI to 15.000kms MAX
2) use bigger Mann/Mahle oil filter than standard (that add additional 0,3-0,5 liters of oil to sump)
3) synthetic oil (it is must have in any turbo engine)
And after that 1.8Ts are running forever
If and I mean IF I ever bought a VW.... I would ask Edyvw for a recommendation. He is well versed, experienced with the cars, and very smart too. Though I question his sanity in "other" issues
Just pulling your chain Edyvw !
People from region where his origins are...are bigest VAG (vw) lovers and finest vw mehanics
Regarding his post about sludgy 1.8Ts...
I will add....yes there were problems because owners neglected those engines...but that problem is/was more because VAG designed too small oil sump...and oil overcooked because that in in engine...
Add...too long OCI subscribed from factory...
And stupid user who wanted to put mineral oil in that engine...and u got recepie for disaster
To avoid that.....
people were sugested to:
1) shorten OCI to 15.000kms MAX
2) use bigger Mann/Mahle oil filter than standard (that add additional 0,3-0,5 liters of oil to sump)
3) synthetic oil (it is must have in any turbo engine)
And after that 1.8Ts are running forever
edyvw
$50 site donor 2026
Originally Posted By: bbhero
If and I mean IF I ever bought a VW.... I would ask Edyvw for a recommendation. He is well versed, experienced with the cars, and very smart too. Though I question his sanity in "other" issues
Just pulling your chain Edyvw !
You do not have to question my sanity, I do that on my own every day
If and I mean IF I ever bought a VW.... I would ask Edyvw for a recommendation. He is well versed, experienced with the cars, and very smart too. Though I question his sanity in "other" issues
Just pulling your chain Edyvw !
You do not have to question my sanity, I do that on my own every day
edyvw
$50 site donor 2026
Originally Posted By: Kamele0N
Originally Posted By: bbhero
If and I mean IF I ever bought a VW.... I would ask Edyvw for a recommendation. He is well versed, experienced with the cars, and very smart too. Though I question his sanity in "other" issues
Just pulling your chain Edyvw !
People from region where his origins are...are bigest VAG (vw) lovers and finest vw mehanics
Regarding his post about sludgy 1.8Ts...
I will add....yes there were problems because owners neglected those engines...but that problem is/was more because VAG designed too small oil sump...and oil overcooked because that in in engine...
Add...too long OCI subscribed from factory...
And stupid user who wanted to put mineral oil in that engine...and u got recepie for disaster
To avoid that.....
people were sugested to:
1) shorten OCI to 15.000kms MAX
2) use bigger Mann/Mahle oil filter than standard (that add additional 0,3-0,5 liters of oil to sump)
3) synthetic oil (it is must have in any turbo engine)
And after that 1.8Ts are running forever
Hahaha, yes, VW in Bosnia is like Toyota Camry in the U.S. But precisely because everyone was driving it I never owned VW there, though now brother uses a lot of Skoda's for his business, but he drives Peugeot 508 GT 2.2hdi.
Any way, yes, VW oil sump was small, then they had that huge filter that makes you burn hands every time you change oil.
In the U.S. problem was that many people went to those 10 minute oil changes. My friend had sludge bomb in Audi 1.8T using Mobil 1 5W30 synthetic oil, but not specified for Euro cars.
Originally Posted By: bbhero
If and I mean IF I ever bought a VW.... I would ask Edyvw for a recommendation. He is well versed, experienced with the cars, and very smart too. Though I question his sanity in "other" issues
Just pulling your chain Edyvw !
People from region where his origins are...are bigest VAG (vw) lovers and finest vw mehanics
Regarding his post about sludgy 1.8Ts...
I will add....yes there were problems because owners neglected those engines...but that problem is/was more because VAG designed too small oil sump...and oil overcooked because that in in engine...
Add...too long OCI subscribed from factory...
And stupid user who wanted to put mineral oil in that engine...and u got recepie for disaster
To avoid that.....
people were sugested to:
1) shorten OCI to 15.000kms MAX
2) use bigger Mann/Mahle oil filter than standard (that add additional 0,3-0,5 liters of oil to sump)
3) synthetic oil (it is must have in any turbo engine)
And after that 1.8Ts are running forever
Hahaha, yes, VW in Bosnia is like Toyota Camry in the U.S. But precisely because everyone was driving it I never owned VW there, though now brother uses a lot of Skoda's for his business, but he drives Peugeot 508 GT 2.2hdi.
Any way, yes, VW oil sump was small, then they had that huge filter that makes you burn hands every time you change oil.
In the U.S. problem was that many people went to those 10 minute oil changes. My friend had sludge bomb in Audi 1.8T using Mobil 1 5W30 synthetic oil, but not specified for Euro cars.
edyvw
$50 site donor 2026
Originally Posted By: gregoron
Thanks for the replies above. Yes, I will stick to VW 502 oil specially during warranty period. As a follow up question, I have easy access to the following oils (all VW 502 certified/approved):
1. Mobil 1 0W-40
2. Castrol 0W-40
3. SynPower 5W-40
4. Motul 5W-40
Which of these would have the lowest SAP for a direct injection engine?
Also, on my hypothesis above, wouldn't it make sense to run conventional oil that burns off clean in a direct injection engine same as rotary engines which also have high compression and high heat, provided you run it a short intervals like 3000 miles? I mean these rotary engines can go up to 10k RPMs and have oil purposely injected with fuel.
Two questions:
1. Is SynPower HST or MST? If it is MST then it is Mid-SAPS formula.
2. Is Motul X-Cess or X-Clean? If it is X-Clean then it is Mid-SAPS.
Castrol and Mobil 1 0W40 are both High-SAPS. All of these oils are good, since you are in warm state you do not have concerns with cold cranking. After experimenting with Pentosin 5W40 I am going back to Castrol 0W40 since I found it to have best cold cranking, smoothest.
Look, you will not make mistake with any of those oils, so get one that best fits your wallet.
Thanks for the replies above. Yes, I will stick to VW 502 oil specially during warranty period. As a follow up question, I have easy access to the following oils (all VW 502 certified/approved):
1. Mobil 1 0W-40
2. Castrol 0W-40
3. SynPower 5W-40
4. Motul 5W-40
Which of these would have the lowest SAP for a direct injection engine?
Also, on my hypothesis above, wouldn't it make sense to run conventional oil that burns off clean in a direct injection engine same as rotary engines which also have high compression and high heat, provided you run it a short intervals like 3000 miles? I mean these rotary engines can go up to 10k RPMs and have oil purposely injected with fuel.
Two questions:
1. Is SynPower HST or MST? If it is MST then it is Mid-SAPS formula.
2. Is Motul X-Cess or X-Clean? If it is X-Clean then it is Mid-SAPS.
Castrol and Mobil 1 0W40 are both High-SAPS. All of these oils are good, since you are in warm state you do not have concerns with cold cranking. After experimenting with Pentosin 5W40 I am going back to Castrol 0W40 since I found it to have best cold cranking, smoothest.
Look, you will not make mistake with any of those oils, so get one that best fits your wallet.
Both M1 & Castrol 0W40's are easy to find, priced right( buy the sales) and carry all the right spec's. What's not to like.
I've run both in my '07 2.0T FSI which was the first 2.0T of this generation and (knock on wood) I have had a trouble free engine for its 157,000 kms. I change the oil spring and fall and generally this equates to 10,000KM OCI give or take a couple thousand kms on either side.
I've run both in my '07 2.0T FSI which was the first 2.0T of this generation and (knock on wood) I have had a trouble free engine for its 157,000 kms. I change the oil spring and fall and generally this equates to 10,000KM OCI give or take a couple thousand kms on either side.
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Originally Posted By: gregoron
Thanks for the replies above. Yes, I will stick to VW 502 oil specially during warranty period. As a follow up question, I have easy access to the following oils (all VW 502 certified/approved):
1. Mobil 1 0W-40
2. Castrol 0W-40
3. SynPower 5W-40
4. Motul 5W-40
Which of these would have the lowest SAP for a direct injection engine?
Also, on my hypothesis above, wouldn't it make sense to run conventional oil that burns off clean in a direct injection engine same as rotary engines which also have high compression and high heat, provided you run it a short intervals like 3000 miles? I mean these rotary engines can go up to 10k RPMs and have oil purposely injected with fuel.
It is not the (Base) oil that leaves carbon on the valves.....It is the additives in the package. Conventional oil base stock may burn cleaner, but you would burn more of it, leaving the additives that it carries on the valves.
Use synthetic that has a good rep for use in DI motors. Several manufacturers changed their formulas to make them more compatible with DI. Personally, I would use the Mobil 1 0w40, mostly because it is commonly and economically easily available, and has at least as good a rep as anything else.
Thanks for the replies above. Yes, I will stick to VW 502 oil specially during warranty period. As a follow up question, I have easy access to the following oils (all VW 502 certified/approved):
1. Mobil 1 0W-40
2. Castrol 0W-40
3. SynPower 5W-40
4. Motul 5W-40
Which of these would have the lowest SAP for a direct injection engine?
Also, on my hypothesis above, wouldn't it make sense to run conventional oil that burns off clean in a direct injection engine same as rotary engines which also have high compression and high heat, provided you run it a short intervals like 3000 miles? I mean these rotary engines can go up to 10k RPMs and have oil purposely injected with fuel.
It is not the (Base) oil that leaves carbon on the valves.....It is the additives in the package. Conventional oil base stock may burn cleaner, but you would burn more of it, leaving the additives that it carries on the valves.
Use synthetic that has a good rep for use in DI motors. Several manufacturers changed their formulas to make them more compatible with DI. Personally, I would use the Mobil 1 0w40, mostly because it is commonly and economically easily available, and has at least as good a rep as anything else.
edyvw
$50 site donor 2026
Originally Posted By: bbhero
Hey man, I do that too !!
But I was very sincere in what I said. My lady seems to like VWs. So, we will see what may well happen. But I certainly would ask you for guidance. And yes, I need it in "other" areas too at times.
LOL, I understand.
VW is really not hard to maintain, once you get grip of oil changes and what oil to use.
Hey man, I do that too !!
But I was very sincere in what I said. My lady seems to like VWs. So, we will see what may well happen. But I certainly would ask you for guidance. And yes, I need it in "other" areas too at times.
LOL, I understand.
VW is really not hard to maintain, once you get grip of oil changes and what oil to use.
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Originally Posted By: edyvw
Originally Posted By: gregoron
Thanks for the replies above. Yes, I will stick to VW 502 oil specially during warranty period. As a follow up question, I have easy access to the following oils (all VW 502 certified/approved):
1. Mobil 1 0W-40
2. Castrol 0W-40
3. SynPower 5W-40
4. Motul 5W-40
Which of these would have the lowest SAP for a direct injection engine?
Also, on my hypothesis above, wouldn't it make sense to run conventional oil that burns off clean in a direct injection engine same as rotary engines which also have high compression and high heat, provided you run it a short intervals like 3000 miles? I mean these rotary engines can go up to 10k RPMs and have oil purposely injected with fuel.
Two questions:
1. Is SynPower HST or MST? If it is MST then it is Mid-SAPS formula.
2. Is Motul X-Cess or X-Clean? If it is X-Clean then it is Mid-SAPS.
Castrol and Mobil 1 0W40 are both High-SAPS. All of these oils are good, since you are in warm state you do not have concerns with cold cranking. After experimenting with Pentosin 5W40 I am going back to Castrol 0W40 since I found it to have best cold cranking, smoothest.
Look, you will not make mistake with any of those oils, so get one that best fits your wallet.
Thanks for you input. I'll definitely ask for you advice later on for any VW related matters.
I actually experimented with lots of VW 502 oils on my previous ride - the 2000 VW Jetta GL 2.0 in my signature. I sold it with Castrol 0W-40 in it. I found that Castrol was quieter in the engine it a wider RPM range than Mobil 1. Mobil 1 was quite above 4k RPM. Valvoline Synpower 5W-40 was quieter at lower RPMs like below 3k. Castrol was quite all throughout the range.
I'll stick with Castrol 0W-40 with 5k mile OCI for my GLI.
Originally Posted By: gregoron
Thanks for the replies above. Yes, I will stick to VW 502 oil specially during warranty period. As a follow up question, I have easy access to the following oils (all VW 502 certified/approved):
1. Mobil 1 0W-40
2. Castrol 0W-40
3. SynPower 5W-40
4. Motul 5W-40
Which of these would have the lowest SAP for a direct injection engine?
Also, on my hypothesis above, wouldn't it make sense to run conventional oil that burns off clean in a direct injection engine same as rotary engines which also have high compression and high heat, provided you run it a short intervals like 3000 miles? I mean these rotary engines can go up to 10k RPMs and have oil purposely injected with fuel.
Two questions:
1. Is SynPower HST or MST? If it is MST then it is Mid-SAPS formula.
2. Is Motul X-Cess or X-Clean? If it is X-Clean then it is Mid-SAPS.
Castrol and Mobil 1 0W40 are both High-SAPS. All of these oils are good, since you are in warm state you do not have concerns with cold cranking. After experimenting with Pentosin 5W40 I am going back to Castrol 0W40 since I found it to have best cold cranking, smoothest.
Look, you will not make mistake with any of those oils, so get one that best fits your wallet.
Thanks for you input. I'll definitely ask for you advice later on for any VW related matters.
I actually experimented with lots of VW 502 oils on my previous ride - the 2000 VW Jetta GL 2.0 in my signature. I sold it with Castrol 0W-40 in it. I found that Castrol was quieter in the engine it a wider RPM range than Mobil 1. Mobil 1 was quite above 4k RPM. Valvoline Synpower 5W-40 was quieter at lower RPMs like below 3k. Castrol was quite all throughout the range.
I'll stick with Castrol 0W-40 with 5k mile OCI for my GLI.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: gregoron
Thanks for the replies above. Yes, I will stick to VW 502 oil specially during warranty period. As a follow up question, I have easy access to the following oils (all VW 502 certified/approved):
1. Mobil 1 0W-40
2. Castrol 0W-40
3. SynPower 5W-40
4. Motul 5W-40
Also, on my hypothesis above, wouldn't it make sense to run conventional oil that burns off clean in a direct injection engine same as rotary engines which also have high compression and high heat, provided you run it a short intervals like 3000 miles? I mean these rotary engines can go up to 10k RPMs and have oil purposely injected with fuel.
I like the synpower or (not on your list) Pennzoil euro.
Thanks for the replies above. Yes, I will stick to VW 502 oil specially during warranty period. As a follow up question, I have easy access to the following oils (all VW 502 certified/approved):
1. Mobil 1 0W-40
2. Castrol 0W-40
3. SynPower 5W-40
4. Motul 5W-40
Also, on my hypothesis above, wouldn't it make sense to run conventional oil that burns off clean in a direct injection engine same as rotary engines which also have high compression and high heat, provided you run it a short intervals like 3000 miles? I mean these rotary engines can go up to 10k RPMs and have oil purposely injected with fuel.
I like the synpower or (not on your list) Pennzoil euro.
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