oil for a car that burns oil?

[MO]

Thanks for all the responses, guys. I especially appreciate the notes about the cam seals (I'll have a look at those) and your thoughts on Auto-RX.

Let me just ask more specifically for recommendations on oil. Can you name a commonly-available oil (stuff from AZ is preferred) that (a) is near the top half of a 30wt, (b) has a high flashpoint, and (c) has a lot of moly? I'll be searching through the VOAs for answers, but I'm sure some of you already have 90% of the VOAs memorized

Thanks,

Matt

 

[Drew99GT]

For those criteria, your lookin at Valvoline Maxlife synthetic or perhaps Pennzoil High Mileage 10w-30. Castrol GTX High Mileage has less moly but still an oil to consider IMO.

 

[haley10]

quote:

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Originally posted by williar:

quote:

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Hmmm. Valvoline recommends 15W-40 in these engines

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LOL! I'd trust what Handa says rather than an oil company, esp. Valvoline.

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As TallPaul has pointed out, Valvoline does make a 15W-40 Durablend that is "not" an HDEO .

 

[Steve S]

Get a new girl friend with a better car. Use the cheapest oil that meets the specs .Try Auto RX .

 

[Islandvic]

Try a new OEM Honda PCV valve and Valvoline Maxlife Synthetic.

Someone suggested a new PCV for me, and it reduced my consumption from 1qt every 800 miles to 1 qt every 1200 miles on my 1996 Crown Vic w/ 143k miles.

I was using MoCraft 5-30 before, then went w/ new PCV and ValMxLife Syn.

Worked well for me.

 

[tuong]

I would use Amsoil 10-30 if I was you and a mobile 1 or amsoil filter. or if you dont feel you need it, go with conventional oil, Kendall.

 

[bypassfilter]

#132 Moly E.P. Oil Treatment

quote:

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Moly E.P. Oil Treatment is a highly fortified extreme pressure engine oil treatment. It is formulated to enhance the performance of oil. It reduces oil consumption and friction and promotes longer engine life.

Performance Benefits:
Increased compression through better ring seal.

A reduction in oil consumption.

Elimination of sticking valves and lifters.

Reduced blow-by.

Increased oil pressure.
A reduction in engine friction and wear.

Increased power.

Better viscosity control.
Extreme pressure protection of the engine bearings, valve train, and pistons and piston rings.

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[tuong]

bypassfilter, have u tried this? any stats?

 

[bypassfilter]

In some old landscaping equiptment and 100,000+ miles cars.No UOA's.Just seat of the pants and gas pump averages.I usually mix it about 50/50 with Lube Control.Keeps it from thickening up the oil too much for winter work.
I have no idea if it's any better or worse than the Valvoline stuff I've read about here.

 

[the_oil_dealer]

I'd go with a 15w-40 as well. HDEO! My engine has 270,000k on it and it consumed oil, esp. at high RPMs. I started running Synth's and they just went out like nothing, but this is at 7500RPM. I topped off with Castrol RX Super HDEO 15w-40, and oil consumption pretty really improved. I know I had gunked up rings because sometimes when i started cold, it would burn oil intensely for like 30sec to a minute, then stop and this wouldnt happen often, few and far between. After lots of miles on the 15w-40 I switched back to Synthetic. XD-3 0w-40 HDEO and some Redline 5w-30 and now it runs great... oil consumption has ceased, even for hard driving and high-RPMs. I havent experienced any fouling of my plugs to be honest, they were white and mildly tanned (probably running lean) when i changed em.

 

[the_oil_dealer]

PS - Honda's love moly!!

 

[the_oil_dealer]

quote:

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Originally posted by bulwnkl:
I disagree with the HDEO recommendations. I've seen many oil-burners increase consumption when switching to an HDEO. I'd use a "regular" 10W40 or 20W50 mix if you're hoping to get higher viscosity to stop the consumption.

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what were they GM's?

 

[pinoy99]

I would use 10w40 dino Exxon Superflo or Mobil 5000 or Castrol GTX.

 

[bulwnkl]

quote:

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what were they GM's?

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No, 2 Subarus, a Nissan, a Toyota, and a Dodge pickup.

{EDIT: I forgot to list the Dodge Challenger as well}

 

[Bob Woods]

Lets be reasonable, 1 qt/1000 mile is not that bad, but with a 7 year old car with 120000 miles on it your not talking about something thats worth a bundle. I would use the cheapest 10w40 or 20w50 for summer, I could buy and drive it until it quits running or smoking real bad.

 

[bulwnkl]

I disagree with the HDEO recommendations. I've seen many oil-burners increase consumption when switching to an HDEO. I'd use a "regular" 10W40 or 20W50 mix if you're hoping to get higher viscosity to stop the consumption.

 

[Rick20]

What ever you chose for an oil, start with ARX clean and rinse regiment first. Especially, since it is likely that the piston ring packs are welded together with carbonized debris. ARX will work pretty fast at cleaning the rings up so that they may operate independently again. Should see some results as early as 250-300 miles. This is definitly the place to start.

 

[VelociRacer]

quote:

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Originally posted by the_oil_dealer:
PS - Honda's love moly!!

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How much Moly do the Esso XD-3 grades have? I have 0W40 PAO and 15W40. Any VOA out there? I searced but no luck.

 

[Elroy the Unique]

I had the same Engine in a Honda Accord. It started out like yours and got progressivly worse. I tried the easy repair and replaced the valve stems seals. The car was spotless under the valve covers. That fix did nothing. I tried all kinds of High Mileage oils, etc, which again, did nothing to stop the oil burning problem.

Finally, I gave up and just kept a box of Super Tech 10w30 in the trunk and topped the oil off. This continued for about 2 years, 60,000 miles. The oil burning continued to get worse, until I was topping off 1 - 1 1/2 quarts of oil every 400 miles (gas fillup). Finally one day, the car died on the freeway (no compression, ran terrible). I think the car only lasted as long because I was so diligent at checking the oil level.

My father-in-law took the car and rebuilt the engine. He said he was surprised to see two of the exhaust valves had broken. Also, the rings were totally coked with carbon (he had to drill some of them loose, he explained to me). He said, the only thing that could have been done for the rings and the excessive oil burning, would have been to have run Rislone in it for quite a while (top off the oil with the Rislone Oil additive so eventually it would be all Rislone --the larger Rislone is a 1 quart container with additive and 10w30 oil)

I think an 2 day overnight piston soak with Marvel Mystery oil (as someone suggested above) would be a good first try. Then move on the Rislone. Trust me from experience, the engine will get worse!

 

[1sttruck]

I'd guess that oil control rings are sticking if there's no blue smoke at startup. AutoRx is the common prescription, but can also try some Rislone 'engine treatment' (not the ring stuff). Just add instead of oil until a qt is in, drive for 1k to 1.5k miles toppin off with more oil, change the oil and add another qt, drive 1k to 1.5k miles, and do it again. The stuff is $3 to $4 a qt at mots auto places, and it seems to work sometimes. You could also use the Rislone until your AutoRx arrives.

When done with whatever cleaning try some 5W40 HDEO, like Rotella or M1 T&S.