Claybar help...

Joined
Jan 9, 2010
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Location
Los Gatos, CA
Wifey flat-out loves her '06 Acura TSX with 205K. The body and paint are excellent for the age of the car.
The surface is somewhat rough to the feel; I would like a quick lesson on PROPER claybar use.
This car deserves care.

Is there a Youtube video (or whatever) you might recommend to give me a shot at claybar use the right way?
I appreciate your guidance.
 
Use a LOT of lubricant. Some recommend just having a bucket of car wash soap handy, but I just buy the cheapest quick detailer from the auto parts store and having a spray bottle in one hand and the clay bar in another makes the work go quickly.

Use a light touch. The claybar should glide over a well lubricated surface. It is like the old adage of letting the tool do the work. I start by tearing the bar in half and kneading it to get a pretty good size contact surface. Turn the surface of the bar often. When you can feel or see contaminants in the bar, throw it away and use the other half. I usually consume one bar per job and throw them away when done, treating the bar as a consumable.

Also watch out around ridges and high surfaces like styling ridges on the hood. I have found those ridges are the places where the clay can smear and stick. Approach the ridges slowly and work them with a light touch.

Oh, and before starting do the old "baggie test" where you insert your hand in a clean sandwich bag and lightly glide it over a clean and dry surface. You will feel the imperfections. Do it again after claying the car and feel the difference. I even clay a brand new car, it is quite surprising what contaminants can be on a factory fresh surface.
 
They also have Clay Mitts which are re-usable. I just used one to clean the paint off by my rides before spraying the TW Hyrbid solutions on my paint. Clay bar is good, but takes time. I've used waterless wash before or a spray detailer, but using a bucket of clean car wash soap works just as well.
 
Lots and lots of lube. Diluted car wash soap at a higher concentration than you use to wash the car works. Until you get a little experience, laying down a towel or other ground cover will save you clay bars that would otherwise have to be tossed when you drop them. The bars get pretty slippery if you are using enough lube.
 
I tried one of the Mothers Speed Clay 2.0 synthetic clay devices on another car and wasn't convinced that it worked better than traditional clay. I had thought about trying the clay mitt on my new car but in the end went back to the old silly putty type Mothers yellow clay bars.
And yes, those clay bars get slippery and can squirt right out of your hand and land on the ground. That's another reason that I tear them in half to start and knead the piece out to a palm sized surface. I figure if I drop one I still have the other half.
 
I’m not a detailer, just want to keep the finish decent as long as my 4Runner keeps going. Claybar is easy to learn, about as time consuming as hand waxing, and the results are immediate. The best part is it makes waxing with something like a cleaner/wax easier since you don’t need as much elbow grease to remove it. I use a cheap Meguires kit like once or twice a year with great results. I water down the quick detailer a bit to make it last even longer. I’ve also used nanoskin with good results.
 
Honestly, I've never used anything other than water for claying. Just ensure there is lots of water on the surface, or even clay using an open ended hose to keep the clay wet.
 
When I detailed I cut the clay bar into three pieces. Squash the 1/3 section flat and go for it. If you did drop it you had 2/3 remaining rather than throwing the whole thing away.

No comment on the towel or mitt since I've never used one. Some swear by them and some swear at them.
 
When I detailed I cut the clay bar into three pieces. Squash the 1/3 section flat and go for it. If you did drop it you had 2/3 remaining rather than throwing the whole thing away.

No comment on the towel or mitt since I've never used one. Some swear by them and some swear at them.
I prefer them, especially DA pads. Quick and effective, and generally more mild. If I can sell a customer on claying for rough feeling paint due to contamination but they don't want to pay for a polish after wards, I'll use a Nanoskin DA pad with their Nano Shock product. Clay and seal in one step.
 
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