Clattering on startup with Recent Oil change

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azoil

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Jul 26, 2005
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03 F150 Harley Davidson (Supercharged 5.4)
55,000 miles
All stock engine

Got the truck around 25,000 miles. Been running Mobil 1 oil since then to about 52,000. Changed oil, Used Bosch Filter (last filter was Fram), Mobil 1 full synth 5W plus a bottle of VSOP which is Valvoline synthetic oil treatment. I have run this before. It seems to be a good combo of oils according to others.

Started Truck, Heard Clanking until the oil pressure came up. This was odd to me since I even Filled the filter with oil before I screwed it on. Maybe clanked for 3 seconds. Pretty normal when you just change the oil I guess.

Drove truck 2000 miles, It used its normal Half quart of oil. Filled it back up with Mobil 1.

Came out one morning and started truck.. Clanking for 2-3 seconds until Oil Gauge Came up to normal. Odd... Never done this before... Checked oil level. Full and clean. For the last 2 years I have never heard this engine Clatter on startup.

Drove around all day.. No issues. Started the truck to come home.. Clanking again.. This time just for a second. The noise sounds like Lifters with no oil until you have pressure then it goes away.

This was last week. Has not done it since. Still worried however... What should I do? Replace Oil pump? Switch Filter brands? Change Oil again?

Oil pressure gauge on Dash is at Normal level. Truck drives as normal. Before this truck I drove a 98 F150 for almost 200,000 miles. Never once did this happen. My Trucks oil cap and the manual says to use 5W20 oil. I used the 5W Mobil which I think is a 5W30 I just cant remember. It might even be the Extended performance. I through the bottles out
frown.gif
 
If you drain the pan and remove the filter with out first refilling pan this often happens. I normaly drain my pan and refill the pan before changeing the filter. Most filters are preety low in the oil circuit being not much higher then the oil pump in many cases. When you remove the filter all the oil in the galley's above it drain out. IF the pan is also empty you end up with a system that has lost it's prime.

You might imagine you have a cup of soda/pop. It is full and you have a straw in it. If you put your finger over the top you can pull the straw out and the pop in the straw stays put. If you your finger over the top of the straw again and this time you put a hole in the bottom of the cup of soda/pop even after the cup is empty the straw again stays full. If you repeat either of the above with out your finger on the straw you lose all of th pop/soda. The cup represents your sump, the pop/soda represents your oil and the straw your filter.

SOme vechiles are real picky about this while others do not mind as much.Usualy it has been my experince that vechiles that lose a lot of oil out the filter adapter after the filter is removed tend to be more prone to loseing their prime. It may also be that the filter is bad but I thought I would toss a another commonly over looked reason for this as well. I can create rod knock at will with my wife Buick 3.8 if I drain all of the oil from the sump and remove the filter prior to refilling.This was such an issue a long long time ago that Landrover actual made a point of sending out a TSB about the above.
 
The next time you change your oil and/or filter, hold the accelerator pedal to the floor. The engine will crank but not start. This will build oil pressure and prime the system. Just crank for a few seconds shut key off then start as normal. I would only use a Motorcraft filter. Go to f150online.com to learn more about your truck than you want to. Good bunch of guys and a nice supplement to Bob's.
P.S. The oil pressure guage is just a glorified idiot light. Provided there is pressure the needle will always stay in the middle. Notice how the needle regardless of outside influences is always in the middle (normal) position? Don't trust it.
 
I agree that the filter is probably the culprit.
Use the correct Motorcraft filter for you car - they are very good and valved right.
 
Your Bosch filter is probably an e-core design. I had this same problem with the e-core on my Chrysler. Switched it out for a Purolator and no more start up noise.

I think Champion is having a problem with leaking ADBVs on the e-cores.

No more e-cores for me.
 
I've used Ecores on a variety of engines and not had issues with start up rattle (or anything else). It would appear that they aren't the wisest choice for some.
 
The 5.4 engines are FAMOUS for PISTON SLAP.

Often the culprit is the oil filter seal not being silicone and causing the oil to drain out.

My 5.4 engine was REPLACED under warranty due to the dreaded piston slap.

Also......be very careful with your sparkplugs.......the lightnings especially have a wicked problem of SPITTING out spark plugs....
 
quote:
Originally posted by JohnBrowning:
If you drain the pan and remove the filter with out first refilling pan this often happens. I normaly drain my pan and refill the pan before changeing the filter. Most filters are preety low in the oil circuit being not much higher then the oil pump in many cases. When you remove the filter all the oil in the galley's above it drain out. IF the pan is also empty you end up with a system that has lost it's prime...

...I can create rod knock at will with my wife Buick 3.8 if I drain all of the oil from the sump and remove the filter prior to refilling.This was such an issue a long long time ago that Landrover actual made a point of sending out a TSB about the above.
Click to expand...
JB - will this happen every time you start the car, though. I mean, if it lost prime, once you start it and oil pressure returns after a bit of knocking the prime is back, right? so it should not knock/clatter at the next cold start, correct? I ask b/c I am also battling cold start rattle/knock/clatter and am wondering what the heck it is coming from.

incase you would like to hear what i am dealing with (please excuse the thread whoring)...
http://media.putfile.com/VQ30-Start-up-knock2
 
quote:
Originally posted by sky jumper:

quote:
Originally posted by JohnBrowning:
If you drain the pan and remove the filter with out first refilling pan this often happens. I normaly drain my pan and refill the pan before changeing the filter. Most filters are preety low in the oil circuit being not much higher then the oil pump in many cases. When you remove the filter all the oil in the galley's above it drain out. IF the pan is also empty you end up with a system that has lost it's prime...

...I can create rod knock at will with my wife Buick 3.8 if I drain all of the oil from the sump and remove the filter prior to refilling.This was such an issue a long long time ago that Landrover actual made a point of sending out a TSB about the above.
Click to expand...
JB - will this happen every time you start the car, though. I mean, if it lost prime, once you start it and oil pressure returns after a bit of knocking the prime is back, right? so it should not knock/clatter at the next cold start, correct? I ask b/c I am also battling cold start rattle/knock/clatter and am wondering what the heck it is coming from.

incase you would like to hear what i am dealing with (please excuse the thread whoring)...
http://media.putfile.com/VQ30-Start-up-knock2
Click to expand...
Good point, and obviously the knock should not come back once system repressurizes and purges.

F150online has many detailed posts in regards to knocks in the mod motor 5.4
 
I have had problems where the filter would bleed pressure out (or suck air in) overnight. Warm starts fine, cold starts had longer than normal oil light periods.

Check that the filter is tight first. Change to MotorCraft if still an issue to rule out the brand. Test other brands afterwards.
 
Get something with a slicon ADBV and (most likely) you'll not hear the problem over the filter's life. Most times you won't with a nitrile ADBV either ..but some times you do.
 
Junior Member
Member # 13432

posted 13 September, 2006 03:23
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The next time you change your oil and/or filter, hold the accelerator pedal to the floor. The engine will crank but not start. This will build oil pressure and prime the system. Just crank for a few seconds shut key off then start as normal. I would only use a Motorcraft filter. Go to f150online.com to learn more about your truck than you want to. Good bunch of guys and a nice supplement to Bob's.
P.S. The oil pressure guage is just a glorified idiot light. Provided there is pressure the needle will always stay in the middle. Notice how the needle regardless of outside influences is always in the middle (normal) position? Don't trust it.
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Posts: 4 | From: U.S.A. | Registered: Aug 2006 | IP: Logged |

mechtech2
Member
Member # 13515

posted 13 September, 2006 07:10
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I agree that the filter is probably the culprit.
Use the correct Motorcraft filter for you car - they are very good and valved right.
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Posts: 52 | From: Chicago Area | Registered: Sep 2006 | IP: Logged |

How can you prove this.
 
On my 1998 Dodge 1500 truck with 318 I always used Mopar oil filters.I use Amsoil full syn 10w30 oil.sometimes truck sits for days and never any clatter.recently changed oil and used the NEW Amsoil long life filter(good for 25k)and now after sitting a few days have lifter clatter on first start up.
 
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