Classic car guys, what you running?

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Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Define older Ford bronco.. What year are we talking? You should probably post photos so we can be sure to give you the correct oil suggestions.
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I second VR1. They have 20w50 and 10w30 as well as straight weights. It's not for extended use in vehicles with cats so I am not sure what this would do to the bronco depending on the year.

1972 and 1978. The '72 has a 351W 2bbl and the '78 has a 400M 2bbl stock engine and neither have cats to worry about.

And here's a really old pic of the '78! It's currently parked in bad need of some serious drivetrain work, but I currently don't have the finances or the time to dedicate to it, but, it'll happen hopefully soon! Going to try and get it out this summer and get some work done on it. I miss having it in winter, best snow rig I've ever owned.
 
I'm using regular Valvoline 10W-40 with zinc additive in the 396 that is in my 1970 Monte Carlo. I initially tried using a 10W-30 in it after the engine was rebuilt but my oil pressure was lower than I liked. It's definitely rebuilt on the looser side.

Mine sits most of the time and I change the oil every couple of years.

Wayne
 
Nice 69! I'm rather fond of the 78 Bronco also, I've got 3 79's and one 78. Along with prob 5 other older flat tappet V8's in 70's-90's era vehicles. Only one ever sees cold weather starts (92 F250 460). That truck gets either 10w40 or 15w40. Almost 300K no noticeable oil use yet. Other classics rarely started in cold weather, either 15w40, 20w50 or 10w40. Usually Brad Penn or Delvac, I've had great luck with both, although no doubt Delo, Rotella, MaxLife etc. would likely all do as well. I like conventionals for the surface tension (as mentioned earlier) as these vehicles sit a long time. My biggest issue is fuel going bad.
 
Originally Posted By: 379KITTY
Nice 69! I'm rather fond of the 78 Bronco also, I've got 3 79's and one 78. Along with prob 5 other older flat tappet V8's in 70's-90's era vehicles. Only one ever sees cold weather starts (92 F250 460). That truck gets either 10w40 or 15w40. Almost 300K no noticeable oil use yet. Other classics rarely started in cold weather, either 15w40, 20w50 or 10w40. Usually Brad Penn or Delvac, I've had great luck with both, although no doubt Delo, Rotella, MaxLife etc. would likely all do as well. I like conventionals for the surface tension (as mentioned earlier) as these vehicles sit a long time. My biggest issue is fuel going bad.


Molakule posted about this quite some time ago and felt that a synth with some ester content would adhere to metal better than a dino oil...

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/22154/Polar_Affinity_vs_Surface_Tens
.
As I understand it, surface tension is generally going to make a liquid attract to itself more than other matter...think of a water bug walking on a pond, the surface tension of the water is what is keeping him OUT. And, as Molakule states, surfactants actually reduce the effective surface tension to allow the oil to penetrate.
 
Originally Posted By: jongies3


Not being driven in winter, but I do my best to go start it at least once a month and warm it up, charge the battery and such.

Here's the remanned engine it has in it and specs: http://www.high-performance-engines.com/ford-351w-mid-dress-engine-385hp-p/hp11m.htm



OK, cool. ATK makes very good engines. I'll bet you like this one
smile.gif


They recommend 10W-30 oil and that's exactly what I'd run. Roller cam and rockers, so Maxlife blend (red bottle) would work perfectly. Has enough dino oil to leave a nice cushion and enough syn to work well in summer heat. I don't see any need for anything more special. Change once a year.

I'd run a pan drain magnetic plug. I'd also run a good filter and oversized if you can find one that fits... The bigger filter will flow more cool/cold oil better so less chance of going into by-pass. Epoxy a magnet on one side and cut that open to look after change. If no Fe metals on drain plug or on filter can where magnet is, good to go
smile.gif


Cool car and excellent project
smile.gif
Well done !!
 
Originally Posted By: jongies3
I've currently got Pennzoil conventional 10W-30 in the crankcase of my Mustang. It has a new, remanned engine under the hood. I broke it in with Valvoline 10W-30, and a bottle of Lucas zinc additive, which was recommended in the break in instructions. They indicated I could safely make the switch to synthetics after 5000 miles. Is it best to keep running the conventional or switch to synthetic? Money isn't a problem, the car isn't driven much and will probably only see a change once every year or two depending on mileage. I've been considering Rotella T6, PUP 0W-40, and Castrol Edge 5W-50.
Those of you that have an older classic car with a flat tappet cam, what are you running and what do you recommend I do with mine? This will also apply to my older Ford Broncos I have as well.


We recommend Shell Rotella T4 Triple Protection 15W-40 or Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 Full Synthetic for your 1969 Mustang Mach 1 and your older Bronco as well. Both are formulated with 1200 ppm of zinc which is ideal for older flat tappet engines and older performance engines. It targets high temperature and high-wear surfaces where they are needed the most. Hope this helps!
 
Originally Posted By: ChrisGuerrero
Originally Posted By: jongies3
I've currently got Pennzoil conventional 10W-30 in the crankcase of my Mustang. It has a new, remanned engine under the hood. I broke it in with Valvoline 10W-30, and a bottle of Lucas zinc additive, which was recommended in the break in instructions. They indicated I could safely make the switch to synthetics after 5000 miles. Is it best to keep running the conventional or switch to synthetic? Money isn't a problem, the car isn't driven much and will probably only see a change once every year or two depending on mileage. I've been considering Rotella T6, PUP 0W-40, and Castrol Edge 5W-50.
Those of you that have an older classic car with a flat tappet cam, what are you running and what do you recommend I do with mine? This will also apply to my older Ford Broncos I have as well.


We recommend Shell Rotella T4 Triple Protection 15W-40 or Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 Full Synthetic for your 1969 Mustang Mach 1 and your older Bronco as well. Both are formulated with 1200 ppm of zinc which is ideal for older flat tappet engines and older performance engines. It targets high temperature and high-wear surfaces where they are needed the most. Hope this helps!

Didn't the zinc levels get dropped in Rotella down to like 880ppm or something? I thought I saw a thread about that here awhile back.
 
Originally Posted By: jongies3
Originally Posted By: ChrisGuerrero
Originally Posted By: jongies3
I've currently got Pennzoil conventional 10W-30 in the crankcase of my Mustang. It has a new, remanned engine under the hood. I broke it in with Valvoline 10W-30, and a bottle of Lucas zinc additive, which was recommended in the break in instructions. They indicated I could safely make the switch to synthetics after 5000 miles. Is it best to keep running the conventional or switch to synthetic? Money isn't a problem, the car isn't driven much and will probably only see a change once every year or two depending on mileage. I've been considering Rotella T6, PUP 0W-40, and Castrol Edge 5W-50.
Those of you that have an older classic car with a flat tappet cam, what are you running and what do you recommend I do with mine? This will also apply to my older Ford Broncos I have as well.


We recommend Shell Rotella T4 Triple Protection 15W-40 or Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 Full Synthetic for your 1969 Mustang Mach 1 and your older Bronco as well. Both are formulated with 1200 ppm of zinc which is ideal for older flat tappet engines and older performance engines. It targets high temperature and high-wear surfaces where they are needed the most. Hope this helps!

Didn't the zinc levels get dropped in Rotella down to like 880ppm or something? I thought I saw a thread about that here awhile back.

Until we see a VOA or UOA for the new Rotella we can't know for sure but probably the levels are lower than before.
 
Originally Posted By: jongies3
Didn't the zinc levels get dropped in Rotella down to like 880ppm or something? I thought I saw a thread about that here awhile back.

15w-40 might be okay, being a non-ILSAC grade. The 10w-30, 5w-30, and 0w-30 HDEOs are definitely another matter, though. Of course, that's not to say that one of the new 5w-30 HDEOs would be totally inappropriate. I've been waiting for them for a long time.
 
I would run any name brand 10-30 syn blend.
For a filter use a Fl-1a size
No need for anything bigger
 
Originally Posted By: Dallas69
I would run any name brand 10-30 syn blend.
For a filter use a Fl-1a size
No need for anything bigger

Thinking I'm going to go with that Maxlife 10W-30 mentioned earlier. I'm a little sketchy about using MC filters due to the Puro tearing issues, have the FL-1A's had those problems or is it confined to certain filters? Was considering Wix/Napa Gold, but, since Mann & Hummel (Purolator parent company) bought them out, I'm worried they'll soon be subjected to the low QC and tearing issues with the Puros.
 
I don't think they'll mess with the Napa Gold/WIX formula for at least a while... If they do, it'll raise a stink...

I'd go buy one now from a local NAPA store and check it by weight against some others. Most of the gold filters are heavier (more steel) than most brands. Also have them look up the best fit oversized filter and have them cross it to a Baldwin number. Keep that info for your note book.

If the Napa Gold/Wix thing changes, just switch to Baldwin
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: jongies3
Originally Posted By: ChrisGuerrero
Originally Posted By: jongies3
I've currently got Pennzoil conventional 10W-30 in the crankcase of my Mustang. It has a new, remanned engine under the hood. I broke it in with Valvoline 10W-30, and a bottle of Lucas zinc additive, which was recommended in the break in instructions. They indicated I could safely make the switch to synthetics after 5000 miles. Is it best to keep running the conventional or switch to synthetic? Money isn't a problem, the car isn't driven much and will probably only see a change once every year or two depending on mileage. I've been considering Rotella T6, PUP 0W-40, and Castrol Edge 5W-50.
Those of you that have an older classic car with a flat tappet cam, what are you running and what do you recommend I do with mine? This will also apply to my older Ford Broncos I have as well.


We recommend Shell Rotella T4 Triple Protection 15W-40 or Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 Full Synthetic for your 1969 Mustang Mach 1 and your older Bronco as well. Both are formulated with 1200 ppm of zinc which is ideal for older flat tappet engines and older performance engines. It targets high temperature and high-wear surfaces where they are needed the most. Hope this helps!

Didn't the zinc levels get dropped in Rotella down to like 880ppm or something? I thought I saw a thread about that here awhile back.


The Rotella multi-grades that are now API CK-4 approved still has the zinc (about 1200 ppm) and phosphorous (1100 ppm) that you need for wear protection. It is not true that it was halved. In fact, we still recommend this for older vehicles with flat tappet camshafts that require high amounts of anti-wear. - The Shell Rotella Team
 
Originally Posted By: ChrisGuerrero
Originally Posted By: jongies3
Originally Posted By: ChrisGuerrero
Originally Posted By: jongies3
I've currently got Pennzoil conventional 10W-30 in the crankcase of my Mustang. It has a new, remanned engine under the hood. I broke it in with Valvoline 10W-30, and a bottle of Lucas zinc additive, which was recommended in the break in instructions. They indicated I could safely make the switch to synthetics after 5000 miles. Is it best to keep running the conventional or switch to synthetic? Money isn't a problem, the car isn't driven much and will probably only see a change once every year or two depending on mileage. I've been considering Rotella T6, PUP 0W-40, and Castrol Edge 5W-50.
Those of you that have an older classic car with a flat tappet cam, what are you running and what do you recommend I do with mine? This will also apply to my older Ford Broncos I have as well.


We recommend Shell Rotella T4 Triple Protection 15W-40 or Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 Full Synthetic for your 1969 Mustang Mach 1 and your older Bronco as well. Both are formulated with 1200 ppm of zinc which is ideal for older flat tappet engines and older performance engines. It targets high temperature and high-wear surfaces where they are needed the most. Hope this helps!

Didn't the zinc levels get dropped in Rotella down to like 880ppm or something? I thought I saw a thread about that here awhile back.


The Rotella multi-grades that are now API CK-4 approved still has the zinc (about 1200 ppm) and phosphorous (1100 ppm) that you need for wear protection. It is not true that it was halved. In fact, we still recommend this for older vehicles with flat tappet camshafts that require high amounts of anti-wear. - The Shell Rotella Team


You mentioned T4 and T6, but not T5... So does T5 10w30 still have the higher levels of zinc and phosphorus in the new CK-4?
 
Rotella's current API CJ-4 and future API CK-4 products including Rotella T5 will continue to have 1200 ppm of zinc. - The Shell Rotella Team
 
Originally Posted By: ChrisGuerrero
Rotella's current API CJ-4 and future API CK-4 products including Rotella T5 will continue to have 1200 ppm of zinc. - The Shell Rotella Team


Thanks this is good to hear.
 
A built 351W? That's the engine I have in my old E350.
That seems like an oxymoron in that the wide bearing 351W was never intended to be a performance engine. That's why you find this engine in so many Ford vans.
Why wouldn't you have had a 351C built?
My opinion aside, don't start and run the engine unless you intend to run the car. During the off months, just put a battery tender on it and leave it alone.
I've winter stored cars for years with no problems doing this.
Oil?
For a warm weather driver, grade doesn't matter much and any HDEO would work well and have plenty of ZDDP.
Internal corrosion and dry starts?
Not really much of an issue for a few months of storage. If you are concerned, ester basestocks do offer superior polarity.
Red Line maybe?
You could realistically use any grade HDEO whether labeled as syn or not and be just fine.
 
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