Choosing a By-pass filter

[msparks]

Well I'm sure this will be a good topic. As I believe there are no less than 30 manufactures of by-pass filters.

There are 2 basic types that I'm aware of. One uses a a really thick media usually of some type of cellulose(paper) Could be toiletpaper, cotton, wood particles etc.

The other type of by-pass filter is a centrifuge. These filters don't have an element. The filter mechanically seperates the contaminants via a spinning mechanism that is run off of oil pressure. These filters can be cleaned and reaused. One problem is that while it's very good at trapping very small particles it cannot remove moisture, fuel, and glycol.

The element type of filter does a great job of removing contaminant less than 5 microns. Most all by-pass filters can remove particles less than 1 micron but usually less than 50% effeciency. Besides the most important wear causing particles are between 5 and 20 microns. Removing water, glycol, and some fuel helps as well becuase those contaminants can build up in the oil and reduce the drain interval of the oil, the cause cause higher nitration, oxidation, and change the viscosity(thinning).

We can discuss other aspects of by-pass filteration such as which type of element is best, toilet paper, cotton, mixed media. We can talk about weather you want a drop in element, spin on element. Lastly we can discuss the surface area of filteration area of the element. Most by-pass manufactures have filters designed for various sump sizes from 4 quarts to 40 or more gallongs. Some by-pass filter are very large and will only work on stationary industrial equipment. The size of the media, surface area, and effeciency of the element are all directly related to how often you have to change the element, drain interval of the oil, and serviabilty of equipment. All of these factors must be taken into consideration when choosing a filter for your needs.

By pass fiters can be used on virtually any type of oil and any type of equipment. From engine oil, hydraulic oil, compressor oil, gear lube, cooling oil, and more.

 

[Mykro]

Your post gets me thinking of what happens to the oil that gets recycyled.. Think of all of the motor oil in the world in every car, truck, equipment etc.. That has to get changed.
Thats alot of oil !! Also transmission fluid too !! When I have taken my used oil to the nearest auto parts store to empty my oil into the big container, all that oil is mixed together.. Motor oil, transmission oil, Conventional or synthetic it dosen't matter. Every car dealership in the world is the same way. All of their used oil goes into
a one big container. The lube oil franchaises too.
We're talking millions if used oil, all across the world!.. We know it dosen't just get thrown away.. It is of course recycled. How do they seperate the oil (motor oil, trans) can they seperate the dino from the synthetics too ?.. I tend to think that they have to filter all that oil, and submicronic filtration makes sense to me. How do they seperate the different oils? I don't have a clue? Or do they? When you by new oil you don't see on the label that it has been recycled.. It is sold as NEW oil. The wool has been pulled over our heads again again !... The bottom line for me is that all those different oils must be submicronically cleaned before they process the oil to be recycled.. What type of filtration is a mystery to me.. But just goes to show you that oil won't ever break down! Just filter it submicronically! I'm keeping my Frantz filters..
Like Ralph says "You have to think for your self"

[ December 13, 2003, 11:42 AM: Message edited by: Mykro ]

 

[Doug Hillary]

Hi,
I have used the Spinner 2 (previously Glacier) Mann-Hummel filter for several years and many millions of kms
These do a magnificent job on heavy diesels - mine are 500hp Detroit 60 series.
The centrifuge is driven by oil pressure ( a slight loss can be expected ) and the oil level is maintained by air pressure

I change Delvac 1 at 62k miles and clean the centrifuge at every second oil change - a 10 minute job. The contaminant uptake is 0.0025g/km some sub micron and much soot

The Donaldson extended life FF filters ( ELF 3998 ) last an oil change cycle with ease

As the Spinner renders the FF filters almost redundant we have tried cleanable lifetime stainless steel 30micron inserts instead. They worked well but were simply just not cost effective as the upfront cost was $A800 for each

Mann also make a cartridge type centrifuge ( fitted to Landrover diesels and others )which is available on the after market. These do not require any air pressure
Some Euro heavy trucks also use a Spinner type centrifuge as the prime filter. Some will soon have a cleanable filter pack including a centrifuge and a SS FF element that eliminates replacement filters altogether

We will see more of these in heavy diesels especially those meeting EGR standards

If I was to fit a bypass filter to a car or light truck I would sure check out the availability of a centrifuge - they are without a doubt the very best and they maintain good oil flow!

Regards

[ December 13, 2003, 01:53 PM: Message edited by: Doug Hillary ]

 

[Steve S]

I can never figure out how once saturated with oil any element can remove water coolant or fuel.

 

[RalphPWood]

Most lubricants are collected and used for fuel. No refined based oil is better than virgin base stocks because it gets purer every time it is re refined. If people won't buy it it will be used as fuel. Some major oil companies use re refined oil to blend with their oil. It isn't advertised. At one time Mercedes Benz used it as factory fill. One re refinery at East Chicago Indiana has a very high quality base stock. Walmart sold their oil at one time. My guess is it didn't sell well.
As a rule if your oil gets dirty and needs to be drained your filter isn't any good. I gave up the system of using filters that don't work then draining the oil after it gets dirty wears and fouls the equipment in 1963. I realize there are other reasons for oil changes besides poor filtration but I have always been able to avoid these problems such as extreme fuel or coolant contamination. If my engine isn't hot enough to evaporate normal fuel contamination I will change the thermostat. If I am getting glycol in the oil I will repair the coolant leak. Proper filtration has worked for me a long time. Go to an art supply store and purchase lamp black and mix it in oil. If you pump it thru a filter and it is removed in one pass it is a very effective submicronic bypass filter. If you don't want to bother then just take my word for it. If it can't remove lamp black it isn't very effective. If it can't remove lamp black well enough to turn oil clear on the first pass don't use it especially for fuel.

Ralph

 

[sbc350gearhead]

From what I have been told.....most of the used oil is made into fuel oil, and for the time being, it is cheaper to pull it out of the ground and refine it, than to recycle used motor oil into new motor oil and make it meet specs.

 

[JohnBrowning]

hing else as well is how the media is treated. One company "Dynapure" or "PureDyn"I think has chemical pellets in it's filter to try and restore lost additives especialy those concerened with TBN.

How much pressure and volume of oil does it take to run a cintrifical seperator? I have heard that mechanical type bypass also removes additives from the oil wich ius not good?

What is the investment cost like for each one?

How often does each one have to be serviced?

 

[rugerman1]

Ralph's FAQ section has some answers for you.

Mark