Chevy 2011 Silverado is this combo OK?
- Thread starter kgpcr
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Yes,its fine, but a coplete waste to change oil af 650 miles.
And tobackup my comments, here is a post from GM engineer Bbobynski from 2006:
While the official answer is that the factory oil fill is nothing special....just plain 5W30 Mobil 1 just like you get in the store...the fact is that the engine was assembled on the assembly line with a small amount of ZDP rich assembly lube applied to critical surfaces as assembly lube. Cylinder walls, ring, ring lands, bearings, cam lobes, etc. all receive local applications of a Lubrizol assembly lube product an/or EOS. This assembly lube probably totals around 6 ounces or so total for the engine. This obviously protects against local scuffing or wear during the initial few seconds of operation and then the ZDP rich assembly lube is washed into the oil and contributes to spiking the factory oil fill with extra ZDP....so....in fact, the factory oil fill does, by default, have slightly higher levels of ZDP to guard against breakin wear. Removing this oil and changing early does put less ZDP in the oil for the breakin miles that follow.
It is probably not a big deal at all because the ZDP additive is fairly small, most of the purpose of it being in the oil is covered by the first few miles of operation and new oil would have a certain level of ZDP equivalent to the factory fill oil anyway assuming some of the extra ZDP was used up during the earliest moments of breakin.
But, the fact is that the factory oil fill is a bit "special" having that spike of ZDP rich assembly lube in it.
If you must change early for piece of mind, you could add a pint of GM EOS to the new oil fill to replicate the assembly lube addition to the factory oil fill.
Personally, I would just run the factory oil fill to the first change interval. If you do want to change early, follow the oil life monitor and change at 50% oil life or something like that for an early first change. Changing at 500 and 2000 is a waste of time and money as the oil in the engine at that point is perfectly fine. It won't hurt to change it, especially if you add the EOS but it really isn't going to help anything, either.
I have seen a lot of factory engines torn down after running lots of miles with the factory oil fill and they look perfect inside with no harm done whatsoever by running the oil to the first full oil monitor change interval.
And tobackup my comments, here is a post from GM engineer Bbobynski from 2006:
While the official answer is that the factory oil fill is nothing special....just plain 5W30 Mobil 1 just like you get in the store...the fact is that the engine was assembled on the assembly line with a small amount of ZDP rich assembly lube applied to critical surfaces as assembly lube. Cylinder walls, ring, ring lands, bearings, cam lobes, etc. all receive local applications of a Lubrizol assembly lube product an/or EOS. This assembly lube probably totals around 6 ounces or so total for the engine. This obviously protects against local scuffing or wear during the initial few seconds of operation and then the ZDP rich assembly lube is washed into the oil and contributes to spiking the factory oil fill with extra ZDP....so....in fact, the factory oil fill does, by default, have slightly higher levels of ZDP to guard against breakin wear. Removing this oil and changing early does put less ZDP in the oil for the breakin miles that follow.
It is probably not a big deal at all because the ZDP additive is fairly small, most of the purpose of it being in the oil is covered by the first few miles of operation and new oil would have a certain level of ZDP equivalent to the factory fill oil anyway assuming some of the extra ZDP was used up during the earliest moments of breakin.
But, the fact is that the factory oil fill is a bit "special" having that spike of ZDP rich assembly lube in it.
If you must change early for piece of mind, you could add a pint of GM EOS to the new oil fill to replicate the assembly lube addition to the factory oil fill.
Personally, I would just run the factory oil fill to the first change interval. If you do want to change early, follow the oil life monitor and change at 50% oil life or something like that for an early first change. Changing at 500 and 2000 is a waste of time and money as the oil in the engine at that point is perfectly fine. It won't hurt to change it, especially if you add the EOS but it really isn't going to help anything, either.
I have seen a lot of factory engines torn down after running lots of miles with the factory oil fill and they look perfect inside with no harm done whatsoever by running the oil to the first full oil monitor change interval.
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Yes! Mobil 1(M1) and a PurOne filter(P1) is a very good choice. But, you may be throwing away perfectly good motor oil/filter since the new standard has changed for Oil Change Intervals(OCI's). Even on brand new engines. It isn't like the old days of changing out the factory fill(FF) oil/filter at 500-1000 miles in order to memove many of the machining debris/contaminents.
Engines are cleand very well in the factory process these days. There is a different standard for engine building/cleaning in the major manufacturing of engines today. These engines aren't being built by some rebuild shop, this is a major process for Auto MFG's.
This is good for us.
On the other hand, you aren't hurting any thing either! It's very often today considered waste when changing the oil/filter too early such as 650 miles, although many still feel the same way as yourself. Can't blame you as it took me a long time to convert over to longer OCI's.
Others will chime in here and offer their opinions too!
Engines are cleand very well in the factory process these days. There is a different standard for engine building/cleaning in the major manufacturing of engines today. These engines aren't being built by some rebuild shop, this is a major process for Auto MFG's.
On the other hand, you aren't hurting any thing either! It's very often today considered waste when changing the oil/filter too early such as 650 miles, although many still feel the same way as yourself. Can't blame you as it took me a long time to convert over to longer OCI's.
Others will chime in here and offer their opinions too!
I know i really dont need to change it yet but it would make me feel better! Oil is the life blood of an engine. I know it may not help anything but it sure wont hurt anything either or will it if i change it and loose the ZDP that was in the original oil?
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I've always ran the FF for about 2k before changing it. There is no harm in running it to a full OCI but it's always made me fill better changing it early.
Originally Posted By: kgpcr
I know i really dont need to change it yet but it would make me feel better! Oil is the life blood of an engine. I know it may not help anything but it sure wont hurt anything either or will it if i change it and loose the ZDP that was in the original oil?
What do you expect to happen to the oil? Oil never wears out, it just get contaminated with soot, and combustion by-products. In 650 miles none of this had time to happen. Old habits die hard, but trust the people who built the engine. They know what they're talking about.
I know i really dont need to change it yet but it would make me feel better! Oil is the life blood of an engine. I know it may not help anything but it sure wont hurt anything either or will it if i change it and loose the ZDP that was in the original oil?
What do you expect to happen to the oil? Oil never wears out, it just get contaminated with soot, and combustion by-products. In 650 miles none of this had time to happen. Old habits die hard, but trust the people who built the engine. They know what they're talking about.
Dump the FF around 2K and then just use the cheapest conventional oil for the next few oil changes while increasing the interval each time. The idea here is to get the naturally occuring wear metal out so there not circulating around causing more wear.
Bluestream, LOL wish I read that excerpt when I first got my 2011 silverado. I changed my oil at 500 and 2000 miles exactly...wooops Call me wasteful and old school I guess.
To the OP, yes Mobil 1 and a purolator filter will work. Mobil 1 is one of the dexos1 approved oils we are supposed to use to keep the power train warranty intact.
To the OP, yes Mobil 1 and a purolator filter will work. Mobil 1 is one of the dexos1 approved oils we are supposed to use to keep the power train warranty intact.
I just changed the oil filter at 500, 1500, 3000 miles till 4500 when the oci kicked in and changed both oil and filter.
Using Wix oil filters and Valvoline conv. until 10k then switched to Synpower.
Using Wix oil filters and Valvoline conv. until 10k then switched to Synpower.
The oil filter will take care of any chunks big enough to cause damage.
I would just follow the OLM and the truck will go to the junk yard with a good running engine.
I would just follow the OLM and the truck will go to the junk yard with a good running engine.
Originally Posted By: Warstud
Dump the FF around 2K and then just use the cheapest conventional oil for the next few oil changes while increasing the interval each time. The idea here is to get the naturally occuring wear metal out so there not circulating around causing more wear.
He can't do that if he wants his powertrain warranty to stay valid. Must use Dexos (blend)or equivilant. He's got a 2011 model and it requires Dexos blend.
Dump the FF around 2K and then just use the cheapest conventional oil for the next few oil changes while increasing the interval each time. The idea here is to get the naturally occuring wear metal out so there not circulating around causing more wear.
He can't do that if he wants his powertrain warranty to stay valid. Must use Dexos (blend)or equivilant. He's got a 2011 model and it requires Dexos blend.
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