Checks When Buying New Car

[JWC86]

We are picking up a new SUV next week, what are some things most people don’t think about that should be checked when getting a new vehicle from the dealer?

 

[AZjeff]

Do an extremely thorough inspection of the exterior and interior for flaws. Make sure that every switch operates and every function works. Check air pressure and oil level. If it has any grease fittings give them a few pumps sometime soon after you get it to make sure they have a decent amount of grease in them. GM trucks have very little grease in the steering joints. I actually re-torqued the lug nuts on the new truck but I'm weird. Take as much time as you need at the dealer and have anything documented. My salesman friend says the majority of people never even look under the hood during the buying process.

 

[CKN]

There are not a lot of visible flaws with new vehicles today- there just isn't. However after owning a few months it is possible to notice a squeak or rattle in the interiors.

 

[I<3oil]

Check paint for scrapes/scratches/anything to buff out
Check for any horribly aligned panels inside and out

 

[Leo99]

Bring someone with you. It's difficult to look things over when you're excited to pick up a new vehicle plus you need to deal with all the paperwork and stuff.

 

[Lubener]

We are picking up a new SUV next week, what are some things most people don’t think about that should be checked when getting a new vehicle from the dealer?

Cosmetic damage inside and out. Those are the ones that you are stuck with once you leave the dealership's parking lot.

 

[fantastic]

Huff that new car smell.
Check the paperwork you're signing is what you expect!

 

[Zee09]

PDI isn't what it used to be
Tires are usually severely over inflated and never checked.
I also check the fluids and the oil level...yes I do...

Like the rest here said go over it inside out.

 

[Patman]

Make sure you change the oil right there before leaving the lot! Just kidding

 

[ATex7239]

Make sure you change the oil right there before leaving the lot! Just kidding

And on the way home. Break in changes at 8, 17, and 28 miles or RIP.

 

[CKN]

Check paint for scrapes/scratches/anything to buff out
Check for any horribly aligned panels inside and out

These are pretty much non existent these days. They use robots these days-and they don't make mistakes.

 

[dishdude]

I'm more concerned with the paperwork than the vehicle itself.

 

[John105]

What’s the expectation with mileage and gas? If the vehicle had 4-6 or under 10 when new, isn’t it gonna be 20 when they fill it up?

Is there some sort of tester to make sure they filled with premium? Like a long stick that can navigate the filler neck and octane test what’s in the tank (our car has premium recommended will they do regular?).

I’ve seen in person and online it seems GM cars are totally empty when their odometers are single digit.

Maybe our rep will think I’m weird. I’m gonna ask if we can see the vehicle with 4 miles ie not driven, and don’t put any stickers on it. Can we drive with the dealer employee to make sure he does 93

When I ordered a BMW back in 10/06, it came beginning of December and they asked for permission to drive it to storage. No lie. They said it’s going to have 4 miles when you pick it up. It has 3 now. Is that going to be OK with you.

 

[John105]

And on the way home. Break in changes at 8, 17, and 28 miles or RIP.

What kills me are 6.2 posts that say they never made it home from the dealer. I want to believe them but at the same time I hope they’re trolling.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

I second the tire pressure adjustment. Factory or port tends to fill it to max side wall which is a BAD practice.

Don't let them fill it with Jakes Cheep-o Pump and Run - go with the salesman for the fill up and dont tip-top it off in the hot weather - the evap canister doesn't like to be flooded.

Test drive again and Check alignment and tire balance at 40 50 and the max speed you will go on the HW. No use going back a week later. If your state has safety/emission inspection, make sure they performed it.

If it is a FORD or GM get it on a lift and make sure nothing is falling off or bolts missing. I have had a front light truck Cab not bolted on, transmission only held in by the starter bolts with fuel line laying on the bellhousing, clutch slave fail as the factory left a barcode label in the reservoir when they filled it, a major exhaust hanger bracket fall off, tire side walls split open from over inflation, tail light fall out on the first bump in the road. List goes on.

Check the finance paperwork if you took out a loan. Make sure you have the correct loss-payee address. It can be different from the Corp. office addr. Double check the VIN on the title app with the stamped number tag.

Enjoy. Remember that new car smell is a toxic outgassing of glue and plasticizers. Open those windows whenever possible and No AC recirc for a couple months.

Enjoy!

BTW what's the vehicle?

 

[harbor]

Besides the above, I always try to get prior history like how long it’s been sitting on the dealer’s lot, was it a dealer trade, build date, etc…
Enjoy the new ride!

 

[Zee09]

Besides the above, I always try to get prior history like how long it’s been sitting on the dealer’s lot, was it a dealer trade, build date, etc…
Enjoy the new ride!

I always run the Vin for recalls
New Mavericks have a recall on the lot still...

 

[K-Man]

Huff that new car smell.
Check the paperwork you're signing is what you expect!

Checking the paperwork is as important as checking the vehicle.

A coworker's mother years back thought she had bought a new Camry and learned after the term ended that she had actually leased the car when the dealer called to see how she wanted to finance the remainder.

A dirty trick dealers used to do in the days of desktop calculators was to enter $500 on the machine before you came into the office to go over the financing. That $500 would be included in the final amount financed. Calculators are less common today, but watch for funny business with computer software.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

For those in negotiation, Never EVER give them an outrageous "Doc Fee" of 500, 600 or 700 dollars - which is so common now.
It will still likely remain as a line item, but work to get most of it removed from transaction price or moved into the trade value padding

 

[John105]

Besides the above, I always try to get prior history like how long it’s been sitting on the dealer’s lot, was it a dealer trade, build date, etc…
Enjoy the new ride!

Odd practice in PA. State inspections are done as soon as vehicle comes it. Stickers scream “been here since January nobody wants me!” If I purchased off the lot you bet I’d check the month of mfg on the door jamb