Checking fluid level in an automatic with no dipstick...

And, ironically, most "electronic" shift systems are merely using a stepper motor system to shift via a cable anyway. They aren't making the system anything but more of a pain in the long run. Electronic shift systems look sleek and simple inside the cabin of the vehicle, but they look like a nightmare under the hood.

I watched that Pine Hollow video and couldn't believe that particular system.

The 9spd in my 2022 Nissan Frontier does all gear selection electronically over the CAN bus. Ironically, it still uses a bulky old school style floor shifter. Nothing runs to the transmission other than an electrical connector or two. There isn't a way to put it in neutral mechanically.
 
There are many things on cars I wish they would eliminate in the name of cost cutting rather than eliminating dipsticks. How much could a dipstick possibly cost?
FYI B&M does or did, make an full-sized aftermarket dipstick and tube for the Fords. But it costs about $120. There used to be someone E-bay that also custom made and sold them. The B&M were made of flexible woven steel hose and the ones on E-bay were made of bent thin wall tubing like the "usual" dipstick tubes. I know a couple of people that bought them and installed them and they all complained of how little space there was to install them in. I looked at my F-150 and decided that there was no way that I could take out the necessary bolt with the engine still in the chassis so I gave up on putting in a normal dipstick.
 
FYI B&M does or did, make an full-sized aftermarket dipstick and tube for the Fords. But it costs about $120. There used to be someone E-bay that also custom made and sold them. The B&M were made of flexible woven steel hose and the ones on E-bay were made of bent thin wall tubing like the "usual" dipstick tubes. I know a couple of people that bought them and installed them and they all complained of how little space there was to install them in. I looked at my F-150 and decided that there was no way that I could take out the necessary bolt with the engine still in the chassis so I gave up on putting in a normal dipstick.
I looked up the B&M last night, with intent to order, until I saw what the sellers think they are worth. I'll live without it.

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"Shift cables are simple and reliable.
Electronic systems are expensive and complicated to diagnose and repair.

And, ironically, most "electronic" shift systems are merely using a stepper motor system to shift via a cable anyway. They aren't making the system anything but more of a pain in the long run. Electronic shift systems look sleek and simple inside the cabin of the vehicle, but they look like a nightmare under the hood. "

The Allison system isn't complicated.... shift selector is standard unit, has one standard wiring harness to ECM that is available in different lengths. all shifting operations are performed via the ECM thru solenoids.. no moving parts. FWIW never saw a shift selector fail. but automotive may be like you say... I dont like the shift knob in cars either.


 
I looked up the B&M last night, with intent to order, until I saw what the sellers think they are worth. I'll live without it.
Yep, for $250 I'll crawl up under the truck and check it. I periodically look for someone doing something cheaper, or some way to put one together from parts, but I'm not paying $250 for one.
 
Last time I checked our CRV, Honda did something right—it’s got a dipstick and you check it, engine off
Is it like typical Hondas where you have to check it after 60 seconds but before 90 seconds ? I think I understand what's going on... There's fluid in the pan but they also want to wait long enough to allow "more" to drain into the pan, but then not too much to drain.

Why can't it be as simple as an oil dipstick you check with the engine off?
It should be, I think, but why there's so many different methods is silly. Seems to me that every automaker could determine the proper fluid level in the pan (or wherever the dipstick sits) and mark the dipstick appropriately. They know, or can determine, that with a vehicle that's up to temp will drain "x" amount of fluid back into the pan after a given amount of time. They can factor in fluid that remains in the torque converter, inside the transmission cooling lines, etc, too.
 
My question is why would the auto engineers design a transmission that is that critical on fluid level?? My theory is that it allows an oil pan with smaller capacity, saving the manufacturer the cost of couple quarts of fluid. Maybe the same engineers that designed Suburu axles that can't deal with a new tire on one side and an old one on the other?
 
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My question is why would the auto engineers design a transmission that is that critical on fluid level?? My theory is that it allows an oil pan with smaller capacity, saving the manufacturer the cost of couple quarts of fluid. Maybe the same engineers that designed Suburu axles that can't deal with a new tire on one side and an old one on the other?
Everything in vehicle design is a compromise. Space claim in particular.
 
I don’t get what’s so hard about engine off, cold, drained back, if it’s between x and y it means it’s ok.
 
Yep, all those "lifetime fill, maintenance free" are similar. I'll be changing the fluid in 2 of them this spring/summer, my RAM with the ZF 8 speed has about 33K miles on it and I plan on changing that around 60K which is ZFs recommendation (Mopar says "lifetime! never needs changing!" of course)
Have you changed the oil in the ZF8 yet? Also planning on doing it on mine.
 
I just did the 850RE in the Jeep … pretty goofy process - but won’t do it again for 2-3 years …
When refilling and you get the jeep to the specified temp, when checking to see if it’s full, do you leave the jeep on when you take out the fill plug to see if anything comes out or do you turn it off? Just don’t know if it’s ok for the plug to be out while the jeep is running.
 
When refilling and you get the jeep to the specified temp, when checking to see if it’s full, do you leave the jeep on when you take out the fill plug to see if anything comes out or do you turn it off? Just don’t know if it’s ok for the plug to be out while the jeep is running.
After 1st fill - hand tight for warmup and shifting before top up …
With a cold startup - the warm up is slow so plenty of time …
Did mine at 20k to get the magnets clean from break in …
Comments are questionable - but he got the procedure …


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On my 21 Honda HRV with a CVT is also has no dip stick. You remove a side bolt and when the fluid trickles out it is full..
 
Yep, all those "lifetime fill, maintenance free" are similar. I'll be changing the fluid in 2 of them this spring/summer, my RAM with the ZF 8 speed has about 33K miles on it and I plan on changing that around 60K which is ZFs recommendation (Mopar says "lifetime! never needs changing!" of course)
"Lifetime fill" and "maintenance free" are marketing slogans, and not maintenance philosophies.
 
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