Check Engine Light? Help?!

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Apr 22, 2005
Messages
202
Location
oklahoma city, ok
Hi guys hoping you could help me with a problem I noticed will driving my '95 Explorer with 93k, I just got it like less than 3 days ago, and today I took a 200 mile highway trip halfway through the check engine light came on. I looked in the manual and it said that it was related to emmisions. I also went to autozone when I got home to have them scan the codes. The guy hooked it up but was unable to read them, my 95 has a plug in for OBDII, so why doesn't it work? What could be causeing this problem? I'm thinking it's probabley something simple like a fuel filter or PCV valve, this is the first time to my knowlege that it has been driven on the highway in 3 to 4 months, so that could also have something to do with it. Any suggestions?
Oh yeah just in case it matters when the light came on I was doing 80mph about 2.6k rpm on I-44 near Stroud, Oklahoma. Please help!
 
OBD-II was mandated starting in 1996. Your '95 is OBD-I. And each manufacturer had their own standards. Best solution is to have a Ford dealer scan out the trouble code.
 
Yup. FoMoCo started their OBDII in 94 and phased it in fully by '96. Many Ford models have both OBDII and EEC IV connectors on them.

http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/

Just use test connector to pin #2 (key off), ignore the multimeter hookup. Turn the ignition key to the run position, don't start it, and count the flashes on your dash "ck engine" light. Thats it for EEC IV codes.
 
quote:

today I took a 200 mile highway trip halfway through the check engine light came on

I wouldn't be too surprised if that's an oxygen sensor problem based on the fact that it happened during a long highway trip and the age of the vehicle.

I've had it happen several times that the check engine light came on during a long trip and it turned out to be an "oxygen sensor reads lean" code. Replacing the oxygen sensor fixed the problem in all cases.
 
Hey guys, I just replaced the fuel filter to see if that would help (I was planning on changing it anyway). The Check Engine light didn't come on today so maybe it was just a fluke or an oxygen sensor, I went to the non-Jiffy Lube, Quick Change oil place near my house and they couldn't scan the codes either. Also the engine temp gauge seems to fluctuate between Cold, and the bottom of the normal temp area, what could this be? On the highway trip yesterday it never went over the bottom range of normal, is that bad? I checked the coolant and it is were it should be. Could it just be a faulty gauge? Should I just take it to the Ford dealer and have them look at it? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 
Did you check your gas cap? If it was not on, the Check Engine light will go out automatically in about a day, after it is fixed.
 
That could be a bad thermostat. If it's stuck open, as most are prone to do when they fail, the engine temp will be too low. If the engine doesn't get to operating temp in a certain time, it will set a code. This could be your problem.
 
That could easily be what is causing the problem, because it never got but a little bit above the bottom line of the normal range in the temp gauge. Is it safe to drive the car? I probabley will not be able to get it replaced for a week or so if that's whats doing it.
 
I thought Ford temp gauges just show that you reached normal temp range like an on -off switch but don't show changes in normal after that until you go too high and get red.

And I'd rule out simple fixes in a new purchase because if it was simple the seller would have done it. Chances that's the first CEL - near zero.
 
I would put in a new thermostat. What is it, seven bucks? You'd be suprised how many people aren't attuned to their vehicles and think cooler is better.

It'll do wonders for your gas mileage, if nothing else. Who knows, maybe lousy gas mileage is why the previous owner sold it, but the truck could potentially do better.

Ford temp gauges I've seen are real live gauges, it's the oil pressure that's on/off.

The car is safe to drive but you'll be guzzling gas.
 
So I shouldn't worry about it and just take it to my real mechanic in a week? I just filled up the tank today, I got 16mpg, not all that bad for a truck rated at 15/19, but I think I should have gotten a few more mpgs since I did a lot of highway driving. Any thing else I should check? Any other suggestions?
 
You gotta get that code read to find out what tripped it. If autozone couldn't do it, try kragen, pep boys, napa any place until they get it right. Shouldn't be hard to get done.
 
Well I found out what the deal was, with the codes, according to the guys on the Explorer4x4 Forum the OBDII port on my '95 is most likely just a dummy port, and the engines diagnostic system is a OBDI/EEC-IV I'll have to find someplace that can read those codes or else go out and buy a scanner myself.
 
bigwillie,

If it is indeed OBD1, you should be able to scan it for codes with nothing more than a paper clip. I think AutoZone sells an OBD1 code reader, but it's nothing more than a fancied up paper clip.

Re-read punisher's post above. That's how it's done with OBD1.
 
Okay guys I finally got the codes on my '95 Explorer scanned, by Autozone.

pulled codes 176, Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was lean Left or Front HO2S - Fuel control.

code 33 EGR did not open/ respond during test or if memory code, did not open intermittently.

Any suggestions on these codes?

Would an open thermostat trip any codes, because it also seems to me I might also have a thermostat stuck open, since the engine seems to take a while to warm up, and never gets over the very bottom of normal on the temp gauge. The heat also take 5-10 minutes before it get toasty.

[ March 18, 2006, 10:57 PM: Message edited by: bigwillie ]
 
On the 176 code, try cleaning your MAF sensor with electrical contact cleaner.

Ref: TSB Article No.: 98-23-10
Date: 11/23/98
Mass Air Flow (MAF) - Sensor Contamination


On the EGR code, the problem could be originating from several areas, including:

EGR valve
EVR solenoid (if the 95 Explorer has one???)
DPE or DPFE sensor
clogged EGR passages in the throttle body
 
quote:

Would an open thermostat trip any codes, because it also seems to me I might also have a thermostat stuck open, since the engine seems to take a while to warm up, and never gets over the very bottom of normal on the temp gauge. The heat also take 5-10 minutes before it get toasty.

bigwillie: Trust the several suggestive posts that have recommended that you do this for the cheapness of the replacement for the simple peace of mind that it affords. For the few $$ that it costs and the little time that it requires (a little more on contemporary engines) you will have relieved yourself of this question that has plagued you for 3/4 of the thread.

One demon will be crushed in your mind's eye.
smile.gif
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom