Check Engine Light and Smoke

[goldfinger]

I've spent about 8 hours trying to hook up a remote start unit to my 97 Grand Am. I had the 6 pin plug on the remote start unit backwards. This caused the engine to crank 2 times instead of flashing the park lights 2 times. I finally figured out why and switched the unit around.

I can't beleive they didn't have something to keep dummies like me from doing that.

Even when I start the car with the KEY the "Check Engine" light comes on and it runs rough. Could this be a result of the engine being cranked so many times (10 or more) without actually running? Would that dump extra fuel/oil in and make it smoke? My car has never smoked before.

I checked the oil level and it's full, but not over filled.

The only other thing I can think of is that when I had the 6 pin harness hooked up backwards I blew a fuse on the ACC/2nd Ignition or that I screwed up the computer and it's not mixing the fuel properly.

I know how bad starting is on an engine which is why I would like to get this thing installed ASAP so I can stop cranking it so much. But as long as that light is on I'm stuck.

Right now I'm pulling my hair out wondering why I didn't go get one done professionally to begin with. This will probably cost me 2x as much in the long run.

Thanks for any help.

[ August 06, 2003, 06:49 PM: Message edited by: goldfinger ]

 

[RussellA]

I think before you panic , you need to need to find out what computer code is causing the check engine light. Your car is post 96 so it is OBD II standard. Look around and you should be able to find an autoparts place that will read the codes and reset the "check engine" light for free. The code should point you in the right direction as to what the problem is with the rough idling and resulting error.

Also don't assume at this point the problem is directly related to the remote starter, or having it hooked up wrong. Could just be you knocked a vacuum line loose or even a plug wire or something like that when you were working on it.

[ August 06, 2003, 07:13 PM: Message edited by: RussellA ]

 

[goldfinger]

Thanks for the reply.

The book says if the check engine light is on after starting w/ the remote start that it is because the 2nd ignition/accesory wire isn't powered. It sayd driving it this way could cause transmission/airbag damage so I'm kind of scared to drive it.

But since it happens even with I start it with the key, I'm not sure what to think. All the work I've had to do was under the steering column, all I've done under the hood was remove the negative cable to reset the light so the chances of my knocking a hose/line loose is pretty much null.

 

[RussellA]

Hmmm. Unfortunately the OBD II code readers start at about $130. Might ask around and see if someone has one you could borrow. Maybe if you found a nice person at a parts place or a mechanic you could borrow one or rent one.

Search the web and see if you car still supports "flashing" the code. This is where you jumper something, or do something that will then make the check engine light or a light on the computer flash the code. Like 4 quick flashes, pause, and 3 quick flashes is a code 43

I've got an AutoXray EZ Link ODB II scanner. I would run by and let you use it, but you are a little out of my way.

 

[RussellA]

From a manual for a RS800 Series II remote starter.

VEHICLE STARTS BUT CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON OR ENGINE RUNS BADLY: (2 parts)
1. Many 1990-UP General Motors cars/trucks require a secondary ignition circuit for the Transmission computer and other
on board systems. If the vehicle is started without this wire energized, there may be a “Check Engine” or “Service
Engine” light on the dash. This may cause damage if the vehicle is driven in this condition. Be sure to check for and
additional WHITE (or sometimes GREEN) Ignition wire on GM cars and trucks. Connect the Pink/White IGN#2 wire to
this circuit in the vehicle.

Here's the link

http://www.crimestopper.com/techweb/InstructionBooks/RemoteStart/rs-800-ii-inst.PDF

Did you hook up this Ign 2 wire? Can you check it with a volt meter to see if it has power?

 

[mph]

quote:

---

Originally posted by RussellA:
Unfortunately the OBD II code readers start at about $130. Might ask around and see if someone has one you could borrow.

---

I think places like AutoZone will read the codes for free. I don't know myself, since I have an OBD I vehicle and just need a jumper wire to retrieve the codes. Ah, progress!

 

[goldfinger]

quote:

---

Originally posted by RussellA:
From a manual for a RS800 Series II remote starter.

VEHICLE STARTS BUT CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON OR ENGINE RUNS BADLY: (2 parts)
1. Many 1990-UP General Motors cars/trucks require a secondary ignition circuit for the Transmission computer and other
on board systems. If the vehicle is started without this wire energized, there may be a “Check Engine” or “Service
Engine” light on the dash. This may cause damage if the vehicle is driven in this condition. Be sure to check for and
additional WHITE (or sometimes GREEN) Ignition wire on GM cars and trucks. Connect the Pink/White IGN#2 wire to
this circuit in the vehicle.

Here's the link

http://www.crimestopper.com/techweb/InstructionBooks/RemoteStart/rs-800-ii-inst.PDF

Did you hook up this Ign 2 wire? Can you check it with a volt meter to see if it has power?

---

I did hook a relay to the 2nd ign wire.... but right now it's completely unhooked and I'm starting the car with the key.

I just started it up again and the idle smoothed out after a few seconds, but when i revved it to about 1,500 RPM it was rough again. There was also a little smoke and ALOT of water coming out of my tail pipe. I checked the water and it's clear, so I'm sure it's not coolent.

What would cause my muffler to fill up with water? And would the muffler filling up with water cause it not to run right / tigger the check engine light? It's dripping from the back of the muffler and when I give it gas water shoots out the back of the tail pipe.

 

[RussellA]

If your unit is like the one in the RS800 the pin out is

PIN 1: BROWN 14 GA.: STARTER OUTPUT (30A)
PIN 2: GRAY 14 GA.: ACCESSORY / IGNITION 2 (30A)
PIN 3: RED 14 GA.: BATTERY CONSTANT FUSED (30A)
PIN 4: RED 14 GA.: BATTERY CONSTANT FUSED (30A)
PIN 5: PINK 14 GA.: IGNITION 1 (30A)
PIN 6: WHITE 18 GA.: (+) PARKING LIGHTS (10A)

I don't see how reversing this would blow anything up. Ign 1 went to ign 2 and visa versa. And as you saw parking lights went to starter. I don't think you blew out the transmission module. I hope.

Curious how you tapped into that 2nd ign wire. Is it one of those wire taps that clamps over the wire, cuts thru the insolation, and makes contact with the wire? Maybe it broke the wire, IF you continue to have a check engine problem.

I will every so often get condensation in my muffler, but you live in Arizona right? Pretty dry there I would think. To have a lot of water is a mystery to me unless you are running a hydrogen car

.

It would be good to check all the fuses. Did you try to start the car when it was hooked up backwards? If so , do the parking lights work right now? Check the fuses.

Ever hear of a guy name Murphey and his laws?

[ August 06, 2003, 08:34 PM: Message edited by: RussellA ]

 

[goldfinger]

I started it and it's running rich. Black smoke out the tail pipe and tons of water. I popped the hood and there was a loud hissing noise like a hose sucking air. I took the plastic cover off that goes into the engine and covers the thorttle body. I found a hose there that didn't have a clamp on it. I re-hooked the hose, put everything else back together and took it for a drive.

It sounded much better and I did a couple WOT runs to make sure I blew the water out. My baby still had plenty of power and didn't chug at all on the way to 6,000 RPM.

I've got the battery cable un hooked right now to reset the light........ hopefully that was the problem and I can finish my wiring!

 

[RussellA]

quote:

---

I found a hose there that didn't have a clamp on it. I re-hooked the hose, put everything else back together and took it for a drive.

---

I HATE when that happens. It's got to be gremlins

messing with you.


The error code would probably have pointed to this . This is why I bit the bullet a while back and dropped $230 for an OBD II scanner. FYI, scanner reads a lot of realtime and captured diag info in addition to error codes.

 

[goldfinger]

Thanks for the help guys, I appreciate it.

After fixing the hose and evaporting the water out I reset the light and it hasn't came back on. Better yet I hooked up the remote start unit and it fired right off! My wiring wasn't bad after all and the relay to power the 2nd ignition was perfect.

Now all I have left is making sure the theft bypass is working and hooking up 2 relays for the door locks. Even if I can't get those figured out I'm happy with the install as keyless entry wasn't my reason for buying it, it was just a bonus.

Whew

 

[Propflux01]

Sice you are from AR, I know there is plenty of Autozones around that will clear completely the codes from your 'puter. Free. Even if teh light isn't on it has recorded it.