Is there an effective but cheap way to test fuel dilution in engine oil for a car with direct injection? And does the test sample need to be drawn from the bottom of the pan on an engine that has the oil up to normal operating temperature? And how would you pick an oil that does a better job fighting the effects of fuel dilution?
Cheap test
- Thread starter OneEyeJack
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Fuel dilution is caused by short trips and sometimes
excessive idling.
Having an oil pressure gauge helps indicate possible fuel dilution in conjunction with keeping an eye on your oil level for any slight increase.
If you are going to draw an oil sample to test it doesn't how you do it or if the oil is up to temperature to detect fuel dilution.
Ester based oils are said to resist fuel dilution best as well as high VI oils but I think that is splitting hairs:
http://www.teraspeed.com/RLI/STLE Cleveland.pdf
excessive idling.
Having an oil pressure gauge helps indicate possible fuel dilution in conjunction with keeping an eye on your oil level for any slight increase.
If you are going to draw an oil sample to test it doesn't how you do it or if the oil is up to temperature to detect fuel dilution.
Ester based oils are said to resist fuel dilution best as well as high VI oils but I think that is splitting hairs:
http://www.teraspeed.com/RLI/STLE Cleveland.pdf
I have noticed a fuel odor on several occasions on direct injected engines while draining oil.
Originally Posted By: Roadkingnc
I have noticed a fuel odor on several occasions on direct injected engines while draining oil.
Not all DI engines have oil that smells of gas though right? I smell the dipstick on my tractor and ATV to check for fuel dilution every once in a while, and I've never smelled gas in my car oil changes but they aren't DI and do mostly highway with no idling.
I imagine the nose can detect gas in oil at a very low concentration, well below a problem level. Just pull the dipstick after a good run and see if it smells like gas.
I have noticed a fuel odor on several occasions on direct injected engines while draining oil.
Not all DI engines have oil that smells of gas though right? I smell the dipstick on my tractor and ATV to check for fuel dilution every once in a while, and I've never smelled gas in my car oil changes but they aren't DI and do mostly highway with no idling.
I imagine the nose can detect gas in oil at a very low concentration, well below a problem level. Just pull the dipstick after a good run and see if it smells like gas.
Many of my non-di cars have periodic fuel smell due to drippy injectors or stuck control rings (a most common issue with multigrade oil NOT an DI issue necessarily).
You could perform a Redneck NOACK test and measure the volume B4 and after heating the oil (say 100ML) in an open beaker (pyrex) for 1 hour at say, 70C. Use virgin oil as a reference. The difference would be fuel and water contam.
BTW, I wouldnt do it on the wifes stove - or in the microwave -or in the house!
You could perform a Redneck NOACK test and measure the volume B4 and after heating the oil (say 100ML) in an open beaker (pyrex) for 1 hour at say, 70C. Use virgin oil as a reference. The difference would be fuel and water contam.
BTW, I wouldnt do it on the wifes stove - or in the microwave -or in the house!
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So, no one knows of a cheap test that one could do at home?
Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
So, no one knows of a cheap test that one could do at home?
yes you have the "blotting paper test".
When you put a little spot of oil on blotting paper, the fuel will go faster to the exterior of the spot than the oil.
- A colorless spot or slight yellow outer ring – “good” oil.
- A dense, dark deposit zone: Dispersancy failure
- A black, pasty zone: Glycol (Antifreeze) in your oil
- A dark center with distinct outer ring: Severely oxidized oil
- A dark center with surrounding rings: Fuel in oil
Read more: http://themotoroilevaluator.com/members-blog/poor-mans-oil-analysis/#axzz2Ss9hlWTj
So, no one knows of a cheap test that one could do at home?
yes you have the "blotting paper test".
When you put a little spot of oil on blotting paper, the fuel will go faster to the exterior of the spot than the oil.
- A colorless spot or slight yellow outer ring – “good” oil.
- A dense, dark deposit zone: Dispersancy failure
- A black, pasty zone: Glycol (Antifreeze) in your oil
- A dark center with distinct outer ring: Severely oxidized oil
- A dark center with surrounding rings: Fuel in oil
Read more: http://themotoroilevaluator.com/members-blog/poor-mans-oil-analysis/#axzz2Ss9hlWTj
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The blotter test looks interesting...
Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
The blotter test looks interesting...
Here's your blotter one drop test.
http://www.acustrip.com/specs/onedrop.html
The blotter test looks interesting...
Here's your blotter one drop test.
http://www.acustrip.com/specs/onedrop.html
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