cheap oil+cheap filter= clean engine

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Here are some pictures of a customer's car. It is a 2004 Aveo 1.6l. You would never believe it, but the timing belt stripped out on the crank pulley. The owners says he runs whatever the cheapest oil and filter he can find on sale. The car has 71,000 miles on it. The pieces you see are actually pieces of the timing belt.

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I would expect this. It's got about 12k/year ..which probably includes no severe service, yet it was maintained under severe service requirements.

It might look the same with 6k/6m.

That's a bit early for a t-belt. It should have been a chain. The thing would be like new.
 
I don't think there is hardly anyone on this site who has not agreed that cheap oil and the orange can will protect a car quite well at 3,000 mile OCIs. This is obviously a conscientious oil changer. It shows you can prove anything with anecdotes.

It does not prove the orange can and cheap oil will adequately protect a car for the owner who says he follows recommeded OCIs, but actually tends to go up to a year without any maintenance at all. For that owner, who often goes at least 10,000 miles or more, a synthetic and a quality filter are the only way to go.

As for me and my household, we will continue to go with M-1, or other synthetic on sale, and quality oil filters (usually Wix).
 
I don't consider that particularly impressive. Its OK No sludge, but yellow varnish on EVERYTHING. true, its harmless for the most part, but it can eventually get thick enough to flake and cause problems. And its just unnecessary.

THIS is a truly clean engine:
http://community.webshots.com/photo/fullsize/2953947960011220610AwaHND

Stolen from the "which oil is best to clean engine varnish" thread. That's not my engine- its reportedly a 220k mile Ford v6. But that's EXACTLY what my wife's 93 Chrysler 3.5 looked like when I opened it up around 200k miles for valve cover and spark plug tube gaskets. It had had nothing but M1 10w30 its whole life. Not a trace of that ugly yellow film on anything, just clean silver/white/grey metal parts.
 
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I had an old 85 Subaru, 225k, when I took the valve covers off it was that gold color also, always used Havoline oil, no additives, just the oil, go figure.
 
When I pulled the valve cover off my car with 121k miles on it which ran bulk dino at 6 month/5k intervals for the first 13 years, it looked cleaner than the Aveo looked. Not as much of the yellow varnish at all.
 
thats nothing, you shoulda seen the 150k+ mile heads I took off my old SHO engine........

there was some staining going on, but not even a slight trace of sludge anywhere


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Ohio and no severe service maybe, lots of hways etc vs Chicago and bumper to bumper, but then again, towing??? can you imagine if they used pyb or havoline or Mobil 5000?? Says alot about regular 3,000 mi. oci seems to work too.
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OCOD obviously gave the belt some bad voodoo. Have to dig deeper into the conspiracy.
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If the owner changes his own oil, tell him to go to 5,000 to save some money. If he pays you to change his oil tell him that his regimen has served him well and to continue :)
 
Yawn.
Only 71k on a modern engine? With very frequent oil changes?
They are pretty much all clean.
Actually, this engine has more varnish than normal.
 
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Originally Posted By: tig1
A lot of varnish seems to me. You get what you pay for.


Paying an unnecessary amount of money, too, seeing that it's 3k OCI's on a non-sludger.

I don't know where people get off thinking that this site tells you to pay $$$ for oil. As far as I know whenever someone posts about their high tier synths, it's always coupled with 7-10k OCIs, which are less expensive than dino at 3k. In fact the only people talking about changing Redline at 3k, tend to be the people NEW to BITOG.

This is the forum that preaches rebate-hunting for your average SM-rated dino, for Pete's sake.
 
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