Changing to spin on Filter question

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BeerCan

BeerCan

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On my Cayman with the 3.4 l engine I decided to switch from cartridge style to spin on. Apparently the Porsche cartridge housing has the bypass in the bottom and it is prone to failure. I am going to do 5k changes on this car so I am not overly worried about dirt capacity differences in the filters.

They sent the NAPA gold 1348 which has a bypass at 8-11 psi, but everywhere online LN (the maker) recommends the NAPA gold 1042 which is a full flow filter with no bypass, apparently everyone who uses this kit uses the full flow.

So I am just wanting to get pros and cons of the 2 style filters, bypass vs full flow for this car. 5k oil changes, A40 oil 0w40 always.

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]
 
The bypass can't do anything but help if the filter gets clogged for some reason. Otherwise it shouldn't do anything but take up space inside the can.
 
Originally Posted by BeerCan
On my Cayman with the 3.4 l engine I decided to switch from cartridge style to spin on. Apparently the Porsche cartridge housing has the bypass in the bottom and it is prone to failure. I am going to do 5k changes on this car so I am not overly worried about dirt capacity differences in the filters.

They sent the NAPA gold 1348 which has a bypass at 8-11 psi, but everywhere online LN (the maker) recommends the NAPA gold 1042 which is a full flow filter with no bypass, apparently everyone who uses this kit uses the full flow.

So I am just wanting to get pros and cons of the 2 style filters, bypass vs full flow for this car. 5k oil changes, A40 oil 0w40 always.

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]



Guys recommending to use a spin-on with no bypass valve are risking potential problems.

Use the one recommended by the adaptor maker, or an equivalant cross ref filter from other filter makers.
 
Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
Originally Posted by BeerCan
On my Cayman with the 3.4 l engine I decided to switch from cartridge style to spin on. Apparently the Porsche cartridge housing has the bypass in the bottom and it is prone to failure. I am going to do 5k changes on this car so I am not overly worried about dirt capacity differences in the filters.

They sent the NAPA gold 1348 which has a bypass at 8-11 psi, but everywhere online LN (the maker) recommends the NAPA gold 1042 which is a full flow filter with no bypass, apparently everyone who uses this kit uses the full flow.

So I am just wanting to get pros and cons of the 2 style filters, bypass vs full flow for this car. 5k oil changes, A40 oil 0w40 always.

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]



Guys recommending to use a spin-on with no bypass valve are risking potential problems.

Use the one recommended by the adaptor maker, or an equivalant cross ref filter from other filter makers.


Thing is the company rep often recommends the other filter on the forums as well a the people from flat 6 innovations

Post number 20 is an example I found real quick
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-for...ter-adapter-for-996-a-2.html#post6775284
 
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Originally Posted by MParr
This must be the kit that you bought.
https://lnengineering.com/spin-on-o...ter-9a1-engines-boxster-cayman-only.html

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4241441/1

Thanks for the link

I'll admit there is a lot of spin going on, but it is also been reported that the bypass in the housing is weak. There are a lot of places selling the housing now so that tells me there is some demand for them. If that is any indication of issues it's hard to say. I am just a little leery of having no bypass, even though I am pretty sure I will never have a clogged filter because of my maintenance schedule. Plus being in Florida I will never really have cold start flow problems.
 
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Originally Posted by BeerCan
Thing is the company rep often recommends the other filter on the forums as well a the people from flat 6 innovations

Post number 20 is an example I found real quick
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-for...ter-adapter-for-996-a-2.html#post6775284


Maybe the funtionality of the factory bypass valve inside the canister housing still works with the spin-on adaptor - ? I didn't see where it was mentioned one way or the other.
 
Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
Originally Posted by BeerCan
Thing is the company rep often recommends the other filter on the forums as well a the people from flat 6 innovations

Post number 20 is an example I found real quick
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-for...ter-adapter-for-996-a-2.html#post6775284


Maybe the funtionality of the factory bypass valve inside the canister housing still works with the spin-on adaptor - ? I didn't see where it was mentioned one way or the other.

No, you completely remove the part with the bypass with this mod
 
Originally Posted by BeerCan
Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
Originally Posted by BeerCan
Thing is the company rep often recommends the other filter on the forums as well a the people from flat 6 innovations

Post number 20 is an example I found real quick
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-for...ter-adapter-for-996-a-2.html#post6775284

Maybe the funtionality of the factory bypass valve inside the canister housing still works with the spin-on adaptor - ? I didn't see where it was mentioned one way or the other.

No, you completely remove the part with the bypass with this mod


If so, then I'd be using a filter with a bypass valve. Why risk possible filter or engine damage?
 
Originally Posted by Bottom_Feeder
The bypass can't do anything but help if the filter gets clogged for some reason. Otherwise it shouldn't do anything but take up space inside the can.

Should be a non issue. Filters don't get plugged unless there is a major mechanical failure or no oil changes.
 
Originally Posted by Timmastertech
1042 is a different thread size than 1348. If the 1348 threads on the 1042 wont

good spot. There must be different adapters out there sold by LN saved me a potential issue, thanks
 
Ok I see what is happening. The full flow filter set up was for the previous Cayman generation, the set up for the 9A1 engines uses a bypass. Question answered
 
Originally Posted by Chris142
Originally Posted by Bottom_Feeder
The bypass can't do anything but help if the filter gets clogged for some reason. Otherwise it shouldn't do anything but take up space inside the can.

Should be a non issue. Filters don't get plugged unless there is a major mechanical failure or no oil changes.


The filter bypass valve isn't just for "clogged" filters. It can open anytime the engine is revved up pretty good before the oil is hot and thin. Pretty much every oiling system has an oil filter bypass valve, and it's always been a bad idea to eliminate it.
 
Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
Originally Posted by Chris142
Originally Posted by Bottom_Feeder
The bypass can't do anything but help if the filter gets clogged for some reason. Otherwise it shouldn't do anything but take up space inside the can.

Should be a non issue. Filters don't get plugged unless there is a major mechanical failure or no oil changes.


The filter bypass valve isn't just for "clogged" filters. It can open anytime the engine is revved up pretty good before the oil is hot and thin. Pretty much every oiling system has an oil filter bypass valve, and it's always been a bad idea to eliminate it.



Oil at 68 * F ( 20 * C ) is wayyyyyyy thicker than at operating temps. Any colder and the oil starts to thicken dramatically.

You NEED a bypass valve, or run the risk of holes / tears in the filter media, base gasket leaks or even a burst filter.
 
Yes - if the OEM bypass feature is being removed as part of the mod, then by all means ABSOLUTELY USE THE 1348 WITH BP BUILT IN.
The 51516 is a slightly taller version of the 51348, but the larger filter is not going to be necessary with a planned 5k mile OFCI.
 
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