Well for changing oil I don't use anything. Even on my Accord I can sneak a pan under and get at everything. Not a fan of ramps. I hear too many horror stories with them. I have in the past used a 2 xm8 and a couple of 2 x 4's to get a few more inches but that's it.
Changing oil & ramps
- Thread starter paulri
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Originally Posted By: paulri
Originally Posted By: cjcride
Originally Posted By: cmhj
A couple 2X8s screwed together with one end being staggered for an approach works here.
My first ramps were wood DIY, still have them though the Rhino are the go-to ramps now.
I like your stagger idea for the wood as they sometimes slide on the concrete floor.
Since you've used both---is there any difference between the two (results, performance wise)? Are the rhino ramps easier to work with, or safer? Gotta think that might be a factor.
I never saw a recall on Rino Ramps. The wood is solid, no large air space areas like other ramps. In a controlled crush to failure test solid wood should win everytime.
The Rinos give about a 10" lift as opposed to my wood lift of 4" and the Rinos rarely slide when driving up them.
Originally Posted By: cjcride
Originally Posted By: cmhj
A couple 2X8s screwed together with one end being staggered for an approach works here.
My first ramps were wood DIY, still have them though the Rhino are the go-to ramps now.
I like your stagger idea for the wood as they sometimes slide on the concrete floor.
Since you've used both---is there any difference between the two (results, performance wise)? Are the rhino ramps easier to work with, or safer? Gotta think that might be a factor.
I never saw a recall on Rino Ramps. The wood is solid, no large air space areas like other ramps. In a controlled crush to failure test solid wood should win everytime.
The Rinos give about a 10" lift as opposed to my wood lift of 4" and the Rinos rarely slide when driving up them.
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Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I'm thinking about getting a length of 2x12 cutting it on a 45* angle at one end, and making a stop at the other end to place the Rhino ramps on. I want to gain a bit more height for rustproofing and transmission pan drops. Has anyone done this?
It crossed my mind, never acted on it. If you do it a shallower angle than 45 degrees would reduce the sliding that sometimes happens with wood ramps. The smaller wheeled vehicles tend to push/slide the wood ramp more than a larger wheel would.
I got an electric wood plane and bevelled the 45 degree angle my ramps were cut to down to about 35 and it improved things.
I'm thinking about getting a length of 2x12 cutting it on a 45* angle at one end, and making a stop at the other end to place the Rhino ramps on. I want to gain a bit more height for rustproofing and transmission pan drops. Has anyone done this?
It crossed my mind, never acted on it. If you do it a shallower angle than 45 degrees would reduce the sliding that sometimes happens with wood ramps. The smaller wheeled vehicles tend to push/slide the wood ramp more than a larger wheel would.
I got an electric wood plane and bevelled the 45 degree angle my ramps were cut to down to about 35 and it improved things.
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Originally Posted By: cjcride
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I'm thinking about getting a length of 2x12 cutting it on a 45* angle at one end, and making a stop at the other end to place the Rhino ramps on. I want to gain a bit more height for rustproofing and transmission pan drops. Has anyone done this?
It crossed my mind, never acted on it. If you do it a shallower angle than 45 degrees would reduce the sliding that sometimes happens with wood ramps. The smaller wheeled vehicles tend to push/slide the wood ramp more than a larger wheel would.
I got an electric wood plane and bevelled the 45 degree angle my ramps were cut to down to about 35 and it improved things.
Good idea thanks!
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I'm thinking about getting a length of 2x12 cutting it on a 45* angle at one end, and making a stop at the other end to place the Rhino ramps on. I want to gain a bit more height for rustproofing and transmission pan drops. Has anyone done this?
It crossed my mind, never acted on it. If you do it a shallower angle than 45 degrees would reduce the sliding that sometimes happens with wood ramps. The smaller wheeled vehicles tend to push/slide the wood ramp more than a larger wheel would.
I got an electric wood plane and bevelled the 45 degree angle my ramps were cut to down to about 35 and it improved things.
Good idea thanks!
Originally Posted By: Sayjac
A couple/few years back bought the 16k Rhinos at AAP on sale and code, really like them. A bit wider than the Ultras and stackable/nestable. They have worked great. EZ
Looks like the 16k Rhinos can be purchased from pepboys at ebay for abt $5 more than 12k. Extra measure of safety would be worth that to me.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/181687363117?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true
Purchased. Free shipping, to boot.
Thanks for posting the link.
A couple/few years back bought the 16k Rhinos at AAP on sale and code, really like them. A bit wider than the Ultras and stackable/nestable. They have worked great. EZ
Looks like the 16k Rhinos can be purchased from pepboys at ebay for abt $5 more than 12k. Extra measure of safety would be worth that to me.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/181687363117?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true
Purchased. Free shipping, to boot.
Thanks for posting the link.
One more thing. What do folks think of stacking 2x6s as a backup support, when I put on the Rhino ramp? I have several, so I could put some on both sides, almost up to the height of the chassis off the ground. Would that just crumble in the event of a rhino ramp failure? This would be en lieu of jackstands.
For that kind of work I'd just jack up and lower onto the 2x6's.
Wood is often used for cribbing. If you stack the wood solid, not in a lightweight fashion, I don't think it's called cribbing, not sure what it's called; but it likely would take a substantial load, even dropped. Assuming it stayed vertical and didn't topple over.
Wood is often used for cribbing. If you stack the wood solid, not in a lightweight fashion, I don't think it's called cribbing, not sure what it's called; but it likely would take a substantial load, even dropped. Assuming it stayed vertical and didn't topple over.
I use my Rhino ramps every time I change my oil in my cars...
.. however, once the car is at the top of the ramp, I ALWAYS secure it with jack stands, and chocks behind the rear wheels.
I trust the ramps, but only so far. It takes only an extra 30 seconds to place the jack stands and chocks. Safety first.
.. however, once the car is at the top of the ramp, I ALWAYS secure it with jack stands, and chocks behind the rear wheels.
I trust the ramps, but only so far. It takes only an extra 30 seconds to place the jack stands and chocks. Safety first.
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