Changing oil prematurely today

I’d stay with the grade specified if that’s 5w20.. also stick with a good oil and stop bouncing around and get yourself a wix or napa filter.
 
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Yeah I agree after I finish using up my stockpile I'm sticking to one brand of oil and one brand of filter going forward.
 
I'd say to stick with a synthetic rated to your application - and change it much sooner. Shorten your OCI. Fresh oil will always beat the pants off old oil. If you are handy? I'd pull the VVT solenoids and flush the boogers out of them with brake cleaner and compressed air at each OCI you perform until you don't see any crud or gremlins hanging onto them. I wouldn't run *any* conventional in your application unless it was for rapid fire back to back cleansing out purposes and less than 5kMiles a shot.
 
I’d stay with the grade specified if that’s 5w20.. also stick with a good oil and stop bouncing around and get yourself a wix or napa filter.

although well constructed they aren't as tight as an ultra - somethings getting through his current filtration and plugging up.
 
In general, I would ignore olm and do a 4000 miles or 4.5K with dino and that is with well behaving mpfi engines. I think most dinos are syn-blend these days.

Anything DI, Turbo, TDI or newer fancy designed engines, hot running engines, etc. and dino may not be up to the task or I would limit it to 3500 or 4000 miles as long as you are not redlining the engine and are easy on the engine ....
Translation: I would prefer Synthetic with the above engines.
 
My typical OCI is about 10,000 miles. I change it when the OLM hits 15%. I use whatever the hell I have laying around in the garage but thats usually conventional 5w30 or 10w30.
If the rule you followed brought you to this, of what use was the rule? - Anton Chigurh

You might want to run a shorter OCI, or perhaps use a synthetic instead. As noted above, M1 0W-40 + Fram Ultra is a good option.
 
The above being said, what's the maximum mileage I could leave a Fram ultra on for? Id like to use it to its full potential so it's not wasted

I myself on brand new Japanese brands have done as suggested, (Every other) despite the miles. I myself would not do 3 or 4, 5K changes for 20K on a Fram Ultra. And "Uncle Dave" has given good advice, but so have others, you could use any 5W20 they are pretty much all semi-synthetic and full synthetic does not cost much more.

Depends on who you believe the authority is.

If you believe Fram its 20K. (NOPE) Not for me!

This is also what Honda claims for its autos using its own (vastly inferior) filters- or more specifically they recommend a filter change every other OCI.

what you will often get here on Bitog, (and how i was raised) is 1-1 is the way to go, and you'll get baseless analogies like re-using dirty underwear and saying like that, but what you won't find is any evidence the manufacturers have it wrong.

The non reuse guys claim the dirty oil in the filter is the devils juice, but they all fail to proactively bring up the larger quantity of dirty oil left in the engine that they don't actually flush.

LOL, Devils juice huh? (NOPE) Not buying that one either, good call!

I guess you don't let your drain pan sit under your oil pan with the plug out overnight either then...Don't worry I'm sure someone does it, please identify yourselves BITOG's!
 
I'm really interested to see the c&p because seriously any other time when I take a filter off my car it just drips a little but today the entire sleeve of my jacket got drenched in oil
Sounds like the ADBV was working fine if your entire sleeve got drenched. When a filter is removed and hardly any oil comes out that means the ADBV was leaking, and there was no oil trapped in the oil galleries above the filter.
 
The non reuse guys claim the dirty oil in the filter is the devils juice, but they all fail to proactively bring up the larger quantity of dirty oil left in the engine that they don't actually flush.
Well, I am pretty sure that logically the argument there would be, the less "devil's juice" (lol) the better, and it's a tad easier to change the filter than it is to, like, disassemble the engine to get all of the old oil out.
 
Well, I am pretty sure that logically the argument there would be, the less "devil's juice" (lol) the better, and it's a tad easier to change the filter than it is to, like, disassemble the engine to get all of the old oil out.
When you take into account the size of some of the canister style filters, like the XG8A on my Ford 4.9L, plus the oil that doesn't come out [trapped for lack of a better term] inside the engine, I change the filter each OCI. Less Devil's juice is better imo.
 
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Why were OLM's designed? You don't need to answer my question as I have a very good idea.

And, I would never use one to tell me when to change my oil.;)

I could see a long distance daily driver going 7k on an oil. But for many of us we need to be following
the severe service schedule based on our driving style. 3K-5K would best serve our long term finances.
 
Well, I am pretty sure that logically the argument there would be, the less "devil's juice" (lol) the better, and it's a tad easier to change the filter than it is to, like, disassemble the engine to get all of the old oil out.
Seems like a lot of work when one could just do two or more OCI's in the same day.
 
Seems like a lot of work when one could just do two or more OCI's in the same day.
I'm sorry to hear changing an oil filter is that much work for you.

But I'm sure you can find a local somewhere on this board more than happy to lend you a hand with the swapping of your filter. Then you can know it was done how you want, with what you want, without going to a quick lube shop. :)
 
I'm sorry to hear changing an oil filter is that much work for you.

But I'm sure you can find a local somewhere on this board more than happy to lend you a hand with the swapping of your filter. Then you can know it was done how you want, with what you want, without going to a quick lube shop. :)

An incorrect assumption. I have a lift/rack in my garage so its easier for me than most

I believe you are confusing cheap insurance with assured waste.

My method is backed by both the auto and filter manufacturers.

What evidence do you have that they have got it wrong?
 
When vehicles become overly techy with countless sensors & monitors...........

Sell it, and then buy a better hassle-free vehicle ;)
 
An incorrect assumption. I have a lift/rack in my garage so its easier for me than most

I believe you are confusing cheap insurance with assured waste.

My method is backed by both the auto and filter manufacturers.

What evidence do you have that they have got it wrong?
Sorry, could have sworn you said that changing the filter with the oil was a lot of work.

I'm glad we agree that it's not.

I have made no claim that anybody got anything wrong. You do what you like, the reasons you like.

My only point was that, logically, if a person wants to reduce used leftover oil, changing the filter is a pretty simple and inexpensive way of doing so
 
'Twas said above, "Why were OLM's designed?"
ANSWERS:
1) To look good on the dashboard?
2) To introduce many (not us BITOGers) to the concept of oil having a finite, usable life?
3) Because other car makers designed OLMs first and no car maker wants to be left out (translation: lose a sale because their vehicle didn't have a coin holder....I mean an OLM)?
4) So disinterested, zombiated employees at rent-a-car places change the oil so the cars can be auctioned successfully?
 
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