Changing oil prematurely today

cwilliamsws6

cwilliamsws6

Joined
Feb 27, 2018
Messages
838
Location
Idaho
So much for having a day off to myself. Driving home last night my CR-V went into limp mode. Check engine, traction control and VSA lights on, and it would buck if I tried going over 3K RPM. Pulled the codes and got P2647 which is for a stuck rocker arm actuator.

This happened to me two years ago, almost to the day even, and it was because the mesh screen on the gasket inside the VTEC solenoid was plugged with sludge and oil wasn't flowing through it.

Looks like today I'm changing the oil a bit early with 30% oil life still remaining, and also taking the solenoid off and blowing it out with some brake cleaner.

I find it weird that this is happening a second time but with this car it's always something.

Hopefully a 20 minute job but with my luck, this'll be a 3 day ordeal :cautious:

I'm going to send my filter to 53' Stude for a cut and post as well.
 

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How many miles are your typical oil changes?

Also, do you think (I have no idea, I'm just asking) if your oil was changed more often, that this wouldn't happen? You mentioned sludge, so it makes me wonder.
 
This oil change I was using Super S Multi-Flo 5w20 which I've used before with no issues, before that I was using up some leftover Castrol 10w30 from the barn. I usually run 5w30 or 10w30 though because my engine rattles badly with 5w20. It has 228,000 miles and gets abused lol.

My typical OCI is 8,000-10,000 miles, no more than 10,000 miles.
 
i'm changing mine every 5K and that is always at 40%; let alone, i'm adding new oil in-between OCI because it burns some

but it is flawless beyond that

@16 CRV
 
Your typical OCI, the % remaining according to the OLM when you usually change the oil, and the type of oil used would be very interesting. I'm no fan of the OLM, but threads like this are of interest to me.

Edit: I see you answered while I was posting. I'd get a UOA @ 6K miles and tweak the OCI accordingly. Or if I didn't want to pony up for a UOA I'd cut the OCI to 6K.
 
What oil filter are you using? Maybe the filter is doing a poor job and that's why the mesh is getting blocked over time. Will be interesting to see what inside the oil filter looks like.
 
cwilliamsws6 said:
So much for having a day off to myself. Driving home last night my CR-V went into limp mode. Check engine, traction control and VSA lights on, and it would buck if I tried going over 3K RPM. Pulled the codes and got P2647 which is for a stuck rocker arm actuator.

This happened to me two years ago, almost to the day even, and it was because the mesh screen on the gasket inside the VTEC solenoid was plugged with sludge and oil wasn't flowing through it.

Looks like today I'm changing the oil a bit early with 30% oil life still remaining, and also taking the solenoid off and blowing it out with some brake cleaner.

I find it weird that this is happening a second time but with this car it's always something.

Hopefully a 20 minute job but with my luck, this'll be a 3 day ordeal :cautious:

I'm going to send my filter to 53' Stude for a cut and post as well.
Click to expand...
If sludge is an issue, I’d be running 0w40 for 5k intervals.
 
You need some good oil and a good filter. That is most likely the issue. Put some Castrol or Valvoline in it. And a good filter like Wix or K&N or something. Especially if this is a newer vehicle it will be sensitive to these things. Never do an oil change past 5000 either if it is going this and don’t go by the OLM it’s set to do it to the mileage the manufacturer recommends.
 
I have reluctantly gone to 5k/annual from the 3k/3 only because I got tired of changing syn oil with 1500-2000 miles on it that looked as clean as the day I put it in. I tried following the OLM 1x on my RV because I was on a long trip but when I ticked over 7k and was still only at 80% on a 12k lb vehicle with the aerodynamics of a brick going up mountains and across Death Valley I couldnt take it anymore. I pulled into a super Walmart and had it changed. I can not believe that OLM was designed to care for my engine.
 
cwilliamsws6 said:
I have a PrimeGuard POF4610 from Rural King on it right now which I have used many times in the past with no issues

And yes I am curious to see the cut and post myself.
Click to expand...
I'd like to see pics of these sludged up oil screens. Also like to see if a Fram Ultra would help prevent this. Stude53 will show us the filter pics once he gets it.
 
Luckily it's a simple fix. Seems to me you might need to do oil change sooner than later. I dont trust conventional 10w30 going 10k. Then again at its miles a full synthetic may breaks more crude lose and plug it up again and again. I would use a fram ultraguard filter.
 
Not related to your car or engine, but it's related to your "problem". And the solution will likely be the same

My car's engine has a vaiable flow oil pump. I've seen pictures of it and roughly know how it works but no details. There's however 2 oil pressure switches, 0.3 bar (5 psi) and 2 bar (30 psi) and those are used for checking proper operation. Especially the 2 bar sensor. There's an actuator that lets oil pressure build up inside a chamber of the oil pump to control flow.

It's not very common but some people who follow the oil monitor have had faults logged for the oil pump actuator. There's a mesh screen on the actuator aswell, but if it's clogged with soot or sludge it's not going to have any effect on the oil flow and pressure.

Oil monitors are flawed, and especially as engines age and have more blowby or soot the oil monitor risks being too optimistic. Cutting down on the oci and/or switching to a more robust oil can save heartache imo...
 
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