I'm supposed to change the oil in my new Cub Cadet XT1 LT46 at 5 hours of operation. it has the Kohler 7000 22 HP engine in it. I want to use Rotella T5 simi syn 10W30. What do you guys think.
changing oil at 5 hours
- Thread starter endeavor to persevere
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DO IT. My 20 HP B&S suggested an oil change at 5 hours and then every 50 hours with a filter change. I did it and at 200+ hours it runs like new. I use 10w30 PP as one of the recommended viscosities. Ed
I vote full synthetic, but still a great choice. Yes, change after 5-8hrs (depending on manufacturer). Definitely change that filter too.
I agree^^ full synthetic.
Never used nothing but a good quality SAE HD 30 in mowers when it's hot outside. No use to change now. Also, I am thinking there is a good possibility that 5w/10w30 oil could shear too much during hot summers. Other wise, I think it would be fine in the Spring and Fall.
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Originally Posted By: expat
I'd run 15w40 but that's just me.
+1 - Rotella T would serve the purpose quite well. On OPE what can be gained by using a synthetic oil? Certainly, it would not be used to extend the OCI. What are the thoughts here?
PS - OP, I would also change the oil at 5 hours.
I'd run 15w40 but that's just me.
+1 - Rotella T would serve the purpose quite well. On OPE what can be gained by using a synthetic oil? Certainly, it would not be used to extend the OCI. What are the thoughts here?
PS - OP, I would also change the oil at 5 hours.
Thanks guys. The manual calls for 10W30 and I thought Rotella deasil oil would be good for an air cooled engine.
not sure about that particular engine, but I can tell you my Dad's Kohler powered Cub takes 3614 Filters. Same as my old Neon, same as his Current Escape. I have a listing for most of the major brands if you are interested(and if that one crosses to the same one)
Originally Posted By: 2010_FX4
Originally Posted By: expat
I'd run 15w40 but that's just me.
+1 - Rotella T would serve the purpose quite well. On OPE what can be gained by using a synthetic oil? Certainly, it would not be used to extend the OCI. What are the thoughts here?
PS - OP, I would also change the oil at 5 hours.
Doesn't break down as fast at 300F
Originally Posted By: expat
I'd run 15w40 but that's just me.
+1 - Rotella T would serve the purpose quite well. On OPE what can be gained by using a synthetic oil? Certainly, it would not be used to extend the OCI. What are the thoughts here?
PS - OP, I would also change the oil at 5 hours.
Doesn't break down as fast at 300F
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Originally Posted By: Rand
Originally Posted By: 2010_FX4
Originally Posted By: expat
I'd run 15w40 but that's just me.
+1 - Rotella T would serve the purpose quite well. On OPE what can be gained by using a synthetic oil? Certainly, it would not be used to extend the OCI. What are the thoughts here? PS - OP, I would also change the oil at 5 hours.
Doesn't break down as fast at 300F
I would just change it more often versus using a synthetic--but if the oil is that hot, either the cooling is not working as it should (water cooled) or the engine is being ran for too long (air cooled).
Originally Posted By: 2010_FX4
Originally Posted By: expat
I'd run 15w40 but that's just me.
+1 - Rotella T would serve the purpose quite well. On OPE what can be gained by using a synthetic oil? Certainly, it would not be used to extend the OCI. What are the thoughts here? PS - OP, I would also change the oil at 5 hours.
Doesn't break down as fast at 300F
I would just change it more often versus using a synthetic--but if the oil is that hot, either the cooling is not working as it should (water cooled) or the engine is being ran for too long (air cooled).
I have the same tractor / engine combo, what I use:
10W-30 semi-syn diesel oil and a Motorcraft FL-910S filter
(the MC filter is a tad longer than the original Kohler filter, keep an eye on the steering linkage clearance if you use a non-OEM filter)
10W-30 semi-syn diesel oil and a Motorcraft FL-910S filter
(the MC filter is a tad longer than the original Kohler filter, keep an eye on the steering linkage clearance if you use a non-OEM filter)
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Yes T5 is good stuff for that,my favorite over the counter product would he Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W30 for its boosted ZDDP and overall additive package
Originally Posted By: endeavor to persevere
Thanks guys. The manual calls for 10W30 and I thought Rotella deasil oil would be good for an air cooled engine.
Pretty sure at 50F and above SAE 30 is recommended too.
Edit: Yup it does. http://www.kohlerengines.com/onlinecatalog/pdf/32_690_03_EN.pdf
Thanks guys. The manual calls for 10W30 and I thought Rotella deasil oil would be good for an air cooled engine.
Pretty sure at 50F and above SAE 30 is recommended too.
Edit: Yup it does. http://www.kohlerengines.com/onlinecatalog/pdf/32_690_03_EN.pdf
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"The manual calls for 10W30 and I thought Rotella diesel oil would be good for an air cooled engine."
Good pick, especially for a brand new engine. If you are going to really torture that mower i.e. mow for over 2 hours at a time in high heat conditions (85F+) then I'd step up to a 15w40 as others have suggested.
Whooped 'em again, didn't we Josey?!
Good pick, especially for a brand new engine. If you are going to really torture that mower i.e. mow for over 2 hours at a time in high heat conditions (85F+) then I'd step up to a 15w40 as others have suggested.
Whooped 'em again, didn't we Josey?!
1) Most important: always make sure there is some oil in the tractor.
2) Maybe important: do the break-in oil change. A lawn tractor is going to collapse around the engine. The engine won't send it to the boneyard.
3) Probably not important: use synthetic oil because... hot? It's not for the long OCIs. I use synthetic because I plow snow with my tractor
4) Paranoid: use a larger automotive filter like the FL400s or the FL910s.
I'm not pickin' on anybody cuz I run T6 and an FL400s
2) Maybe important: do the break-in oil change. A lawn tractor is going to collapse around the engine. The engine won't send it to the boneyard.
3) Probably not important: use synthetic oil because... hot? It's not for the long OCIs. I use synthetic because I plow snow with my tractor
4) Paranoid: use a larger automotive filter like the FL400s or the FL910s.
I'm not pickin' on anybody cuz I run T6 and an FL400s
Good choice for 10w30 OPE oil. I have a 14 HP Kohler in a Simplicity yard tractor, and it gets either T5 or M1, both the specified 10w30. I change oil once a year at the end of the season. The engine is 19 years old and runs great, never a problem.
Originally Posted By: Ethan1
1) Most important: always make sure there is some oil in the tractor.
2) Maybe important: do the break-in oil change. A lawn tractor is going to collapse around the engine. The engine won't send it to the boneyard.
3) Probably not important: use synthetic oil because... hot? It's not for the long OCIs. I use synthetic because I plow snow with my tractor
4) Paranoid: use a larger automotive filter like the FL400s or the FL910s.
I'm not pickin' on anybody cuz I run T6 and an FL400s
Good summary. I ran Valvoline 5w30 in a Briggs 16.5 powering a Murray rider. The body and frame around motor fell apart after 13 years of use. Well over 200 hours on the motor and runs like new. The oil was free after rebate. Wanted to be able to start it in winter. There are many good reasons to run synthetic oil.
T6 would be an upgrade. I have the old style FL400s mounted on the motor now. It is longer, but clearance is not an issue. Makes me feel manly having a bigger filter.
1) Most important: always make sure there is some oil in the tractor.
2) Maybe important: do the break-in oil change. A lawn tractor is going to collapse around the engine. The engine won't send it to the boneyard.
3) Probably not important: use synthetic oil because... hot? It's not for the long OCIs. I use synthetic because I plow snow with my tractor
4) Paranoid: use a larger automotive filter like the FL400s or the FL910s.
I'm not pickin' on anybody cuz I run T6 and an FL400s
Good summary. I ran Valvoline 5w30 in a Briggs 16.5 powering a Murray rider. The body and frame around motor fell apart after 13 years of use. Well over 200 hours on the motor and runs like new. The oil was free after rebate. Wanted to be able to start it in winter. There are many good reasons to run synthetic oil.
T6 would be an upgrade. I have the old style FL400s mounted on the motor now. It is longer, but clearance is not an issue. Makes me feel manly having a bigger filter.
MolaKule
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Originally Posted By: endeavor to persevere
Thanks guys. The manual calls for 10W30 and I thought Rotella deasil oil would be good for an air cooled engine.
I think it would be a good choice.
Any thicker and the oil and the heads runner hotter they they would with a 10W30.
Thanks guys. The manual calls for 10W30 and I thought Rotella deasil oil would be good for an air cooled engine.
I think it would be a good choice.
Any thicker and the oil and the heads runner hotter they they would with a 10W30.
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