Changing my own oil...or not?

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I like the car being 'warm', which is basically not hot enough to burn one self with the oil; your pain threshold will determine what that is.

On the cars I can get by with 'ramps' made from pieces of 2x12.

Spread newspaper under the oil filter location in case some oil dribbles out.

I use the Castrol 'engine cleaner' for spilled oil on the driveway (but don't use it on the engine as it's basically oven cleaner).

I drain into a larger shallow drain oil drain pan that has a spout on it, as I can put the oil in milk jugs for recycling and the spout just makes it easier to pour.

I use empty paint cans with a bit of water and soap for oily rags, and also use them for the oil filter, oily newspaper, etc.

If you're using a funnel to add oil make sure it's very clean before using; washed with soap and water and dried.
 
Lots of great advice, guys. Thanks for all the info!
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I saw a 2-ton floor jack with 2-ton stands on sale at Advanced Auto Parts for $39.99. Thought that was a pretty good deal and may go back to get it.
 
quote:

Originally posted by GoldenRod:

quote:

Originally posted by doitmyself:
If, after you pour in your 5 quarts of new oil, you see a pool a fresh oil oozing underneath your car, you forgot to re-install your drain plug.

Real men at BITOG never admit to doing this. Ever.


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^^^^ That's called the BITOG flush.
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I could see myself doing this, but if so, I'll NEVER admit it!!!
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Low-rise ramps, such as Rhinos, are very easy to use safely with an automatic transmission.

Pre-fill the new filter before installing it.

Belly pans (VW Passat, most Audis, etc.) double the amount of work required.
 
well seeing how all the info posted is good stuff.

i dunno if i saw this in there anywhere, but use a good 6-point box-end wrench, it lessens the chance of rounding off the plug.

also beware if this dodge has the aluminum oil pan, don't crank that plug down too tight.

i've seen way to many pans stripped out that way because of too much added muscle.

good luck with your change........cheers
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quote:

Originally posted by vronline:
Shouldn't need a filter removal tool if you don't put it on too tight in the first place.

I'm not sure that's true. I hand-tighten my filters, and when it comes time to take them off, I still need a wrench. I think it's because the heat expands the rubber gasket, making it tigher than it should be.
 
Oh, BTW, one thing was forgotten in this thread that I rediscovered today. If one is outside changing the oil, try to pick a day that is not windy for doing so. I did mine despite the fact it was an intermittently gusty day here, though otherwise sunny and pleasant, and I got a face full of oil.
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Fortunately, it was only lukewarm, but the wind will spatter it all over the place...
 
quote:

Originally posted by merc80:

quote:

Originally posted by Oldmoparguy1:
Lots of good advice. One thing not mentioned, remove and clean or replace the PCV valve every oil change.

Wayne


Lou,
I'm not sure about the '02, but on a lot of the 2.4L Frontiers the PCV valve is only accessible by removing the power steering pump
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Don't know why they'd put it there, but you could spend all day looking for it if you don't have a service manual specific to your car.


I got to snooping around under there today and couldn't really see anything that resembled a PCV valve under the PS pump. But I did see an approximately 90 degree piece of metal (valve?) that came right out of the top of the valve cover into a hose that ran back into the manifold. I wonder if that could be the PCV valve?
 
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