Change oil?

[Gilitar]

Quick question guys. I currently have 7000 miles on this OCI and I'm wondering what I should do.

Oil: PP 10w30 (good stuff)
Filter: Puralator (cheap one)
Temperatures: Tonight will see 25 degrees.

I'm thinking I need to dump the PP for some GC I have left since we are seeing below freezing temps. Also, I think that my cheap oil filter is probably about done. What do you guys think?

 

[Gilitar]

Is it my imagination or is there no edit button?

BTW, the car is a 2003 Neon.... 48k miles.

 

[badtlc]

why not PP 5w30?

 

[AndyH]

I think for the temps you're going to see, I'd bet the PP is actually thinner at a cold-start versus the GC.

How many miles were you planning on running the PP out to?

BTW, the edit button as AWOL, but here is a workaround:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/s...ge=0#Post738491

 

[Gilitar]

Quote:

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I think for the temps you're going to see, I'd bet the PP is actually thinner at a cold-start versus the GC.

How many miles were you planning on running the PP out to?

BTW, the edit button as AWOL, but here is a workaround:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/s...ge=0#Post738491

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I was planning on 10k. Should I just change the filter and top up?

 

[Gilitar]

Quote:

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why not PP 5w30?

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Because it is HOT here most of the time. IMO 10w30 would be better for a long OCI.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

Your 10w30 will handle 25 degrees for a couple of hours.

But I would change the oil - then have it analyzed, before proceeding to 10K.

I don;t think the Platinum will stop protecting, but you may want to check other things like fuel or cooolant leaks.Those two items help to prematurely destroy your engine - when allowed to exist for long spells inside your engine.

 

[Blue99]

At 25F degrees, the cold start properties of Pennz Platinum 10w30 are barely getting a workout.

This oil has good cold start properties for a 10w30, with a MRV of 10,900 @ -30C and a CCS of 4570 cP @ -25C.

The API website lists a 10w30 as being good down to 0F degrees, but I think that's a bit of a stretch. A lower limit of 10F is a more practical figure for multiple cold weather starts.

 

[Gilitar]

Wouldn't I need to add coolant if I had a leak?
I have never had to add coolant in this car. I just feel that 10k miles is an easy stretch for most synthetics. Perhaps you are right. It's not like I don't have a HUGE stash of oil. Saying that maybe 7500 miles is enough. Hmmm, what to do?

 

[m2200b]

How many months did it take to get to 7500 mi and were they highway miles? I don't run past 5K in any car / any dino or syn if that car didn't get a UOA this year. I believe headgasket leaks in the neon got cleared up by 2003 model year. There were very few long UOA on PP with group 5 syn and I haven't seen long ones since it went to group 3 end of November 05. I'd only go as a far as any syn running easy highway miles should go 10K but I'd still test.

 

[Gilitar]

The oil has been in since July. Driving has been 50/50.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

Quote:

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Wouldn't I need to add coolant if I had a leak?
I have never had to add coolant in this car. I just feel that 10k miles is an easy stretch for most synthetics. Perhaps you are right. It's not like I don't have a HUGE stash of oil. Saying that maybe 7500 miles is enough. Hmmm, what to do?

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Unless you draw a magic-maker line on your coolant reservoir, then it's difficult to determine how much - or if any coolant you are using. If that reservoir drops one inch & enters your crankcase, that's a significant amount of coolant in your oil.

 

[ARB1977]

I would use 5W30 or even a 0W30 year round. The only difference between the 10W, 5W and 0W is start up protection other than that its still a 30 at operating temps.