I do it every other oil change, if so the manual specifies. Some motors make the oil run down the engine block etc so if I can avoid the mess, I will. I agree that the efficiency increases as the filter ages, so why not take advantage of that? I wouldnt leave a filter on for too long though, max 2 years as I'm not sure how well the cellulose holds up over long periods of time.
Change oil filter every other oil change??
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I've change out the oil filter every other oil change when using a over-sized Mobil 1 filter or a over-sized K&N oil filter and synthetic oil.
I've run a couple of 8K oil OCI using the Mobil 1 and usually swap out the filters after every 5K miles. So the filter left on the vehicle during the OCI is still filled with oil.
IMO....this can be done easily with a good quality oversized filter like a Mobil 1, K&N, Wix/Nappa Gold, Pure 1 in your rotations.
I've never any problems with this ritual. It seems to help performance with a "Top Off" of 1 quart or so of fresh oil every 5K miles when the filter is replaced rather than having the same filter on for the entire OCI.
I've run a couple of 8K oil OCI using the Mobil 1 and usually swap out the filters after every 5K miles. So the filter left on the vehicle during the OCI is still filled with oil.
IMO....this can be done easily with a good quality oversized filter like a Mobil 1, K&N, Wix/Nappa Gold, Pure 1 in your rotations.
I've never any problems with this ritual. It seems to help performance with a "Top Off" of 1 quart or so of fresh oil every 5K miles when the filter is replaced rather than having the same filter on for the entire OCI.
Originally Posted By: OAS
I must be the oddball.
Sometimes i will just change the filter after 2500/3000 miles.
Then do a complete oil/filter change after another 2500/3000 miles.
Specially if i'm using synthetic oil.
$3.65 for a FL1A at wallies is cheap cheap cheap!
(realllly need to find another Casite dealer though.
)
I do the same thing. If I'm running a good quality synthetic oil and a good quality fiter.....the oil change and filter change are on seperate schedules. When I replace the filter with 3000 miles to go on the next OCI, that filter stays on when changing out the oil. When the filter is changed out...fresh oil is added to the crankcase as top off oil for the old oil in the filter. Works like a charm and I have less dry starts.
I must be the oddball.
Sometimes i will just change the filter after 2500/3000 miles.
Then do a complete oil/filter change after another 2500/3000 miles.
Specially if i'm using synthetic oil.
$3.65 for a FL1A at wallies is cheap cheap cheap!
(realllly need to find another Casite dealer though.
I do the same thing. If I'm running a good quality synthetic oil and a good quality fiter.....the oil change and filter change are on seperate schedules. When I replace the filter with 3000 miles to go on the next OCI, that filter stays on when changing out the oil. When the filter is changed out...fresh oil is added to the crankcase as top off oil for the old oil in the filter. Works like a charm and I have less dry starts.
i change mine every other time because i dont like dry starts you get from new filters..
I run Pure 1 filters with Mobil 1 at 7K intervals, no way will I run a P1 filter to 14,000 miles. Change oil, change filter.
Originally Posted By: crazyoildude
i change mine every other time because i dont like dry starts you get from new filters..
when you get out of the shower do you put on dirty cloths?
i change mine every other time because i dont like dry starts you get from new filters..
when you get out of the shower do you put on dirty cloths?
A couple of points:
1. A couple of people mentioned leaving 'a quart' or 'half quart' of 'dirty oil' in the engine if you leave the filter on. Most filters nowadays are much smaller than that, My Honda filter is ~0.2 quarts. And according to my service manual, 1.2 quarts are left in the engine whether I change the filter or not!
Quote:
4.0 L (4.2 US qt) at oil change.
4.2 L (4.4 US qt) at oil change including filter.
5.3 L (5.6 US qt) after engine overhaul
4.4/5.6= 78.6% oil change with filter
4.2/5.6= 75.0% oil change without filter. That's not a huge difference in my book.
2. The filters I have cut open after a single oil change have not been loaded at all. Brand new filters are less efficient than used filters, that's a fact.
3. Already mentioned, but many owner's manuals including my Honda recommend changing the filter only every second oil change.
1. A couple of people mentioned leaving 'a quart' or 'half quart' of 'dirty oil' in the engine if you leave the filter on. Most filters nowadays are much smaller than that, My Honda filter is ~0.2 quarts. And according to my service manual, 1.2 quarts are left in the engine whether I change the filter or not!
Quote:
4.0 L (4.2 US qt) at oil change.
4.2 L (4.4 US qt) at oil change including filter.
5.3 L (5.6 US qt) after engine overhaul
4.4/5.6= 78.6% oil change with filter
4.2/5.6= 75.0% oil change without filter. That's not a huge difference in my book.
2. The filters I have cut open after a single oil change have not been loaded at all. Brand new filters are less efficient than used filters, that's a fact.
3. Already mentioned, but many owner's manuals including my Honda recommend changing the filter only every second oil change.
Well, if we're resurrecting an old thread, I may as well comment, too.
Normally, I change every time. For the first time ever, I'm doing the oil filter every other time. It gets even better - I'm doing this with a Fram PH5343 - yes, the orange can.
Why? I did a 4.5k mile run with one, and cut it open (http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2038125) and it seemed OK. Now, the car has a massive vacuum leak, so there is plenty of unfiltered air being pulled in - it won't even idle on its own. 225k miles on the car. So, I'm running the oil around 4k per change, and I'm going to see what happens when I push 7-8k on a Fram orange can. It's an experiment I'm doing as a result of two emotions - curiosity and apathy towards the car. I can't bring myself to junk the car, and I can't bring myself to entirely ignore maintenance or forcefully kill it, so I'll use it as my oil and filter experimenter. I really don't think it'll mind. Once I cut this filter open, I'll post the pictures.
As far as the other cars I maintain - new filter every time. Granted, the OCIs are usually 5-7k on cheaper filters.
Normally, I change every time. For the first time ever, I'm doing the oil filter every other time. It gets even better - I'm doing this with a Fram PH5343 - yes, the orange can.
Why? I did a 4.5k mile run with one, and cut it open (http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2038125) and it seemed OK. Now, the car has a massive vacuum leak, so there is plenty of unfiltered air being pulled in - it won't even idle on its own. 225k miles on the car. So, I'm running the oil around 4k per change, and I'm going to see what happens when I push 7-8k on a Fram orange can. It's an experiment I'm doing as a result of two emotions - curiosity and apathy towards the car. I can't bring myself to junk the car, and I can't bring myself to entirely ignore maintenance or forcefully kill it, so I'll use it as my oil and filter experimenter. I really don't think it'll mind. Once I cut this filter open, I'll post the pictures.
As far as the other cars I maintain - new filter every time. Granted, the OCIs are usually 5-7k on cheaper filters.
Originally Posted By: flatlandtacoma
A couple of points:
1. A couple of people mentioned leaving 'a quart' or 'half quart' of 'dirty oil' in the engine if you leave the filter on. Most filters nowadays are much smaller than that, My Honda filter is ~0.2 quarts. And according to my service manual, 1.2 quarts are left in the engine whether I change the filter or not!
Quote:
4.0 L (4.2 US qt) at oil change.
4.2 L (4.4 US qt) at oil change including filter.
5.3 L (5.6 US qt) after engine overhaul
4.4/5.6= 78.6% oil change with filter
4.2/5.6= 75.0% oil change without filter. That's not a huge difference in my book.
2. The filters I have cut open after a single oil change have not been loaded at all. Brand new filters are less efficient than used filters, that's a fact.
3. Already mentioned, but many owner's manuals including my Honda recommend changing the filter only every second oil change.
if there is a person on here that doesnt know all the oil doesnt drain he has never rebuilt an engine, even the old sbcs hold a qt in the oil galley so its not news. in fact its the reason old timers always stayed with the same oil brand.
if you refuse to change your filter thats cool its your car but why spend 20 to 40 dollars on oil and not change the 4 dollar filter?? are you cheap or just trying to make a point?
if its a money thing and your running pyb thats cool but if your using a high dollar syn on an old filter thats really amazing to me lol.
and how in the world do you figure an old filter is better than a new one?? a new filter will flow more oil because it doesnt have small particles trapped in the media. thata about like people saying changing your oil at 3k or less will harm an engine haha where do yall come up with this stuff???
A couple of points:
1. A couple of people mentioned leaving 'a quart' or 'half quart' of 'dirty oil' in the engine if you leave the filter on. Most filters nowadays are much smaller than that, My Honda filter is ~0.2 quarts. And according to my service manual, 1.2 quarts are left in the engine whether I change the filter or not!
Quote:
4.0 L (4.2 US qt) at oil change.
4.2 L (4.4 US qt) at oil change including filter.
5.3 L (5.6 US qt) after engine overhaul
4.4/5.6= 78.6% oil change with filter
4.2/5.6= 75.0% oil change without filter. That's not a huge difference in my book.
2. The filters I have cut open after a single oil change have not been loaded at all. Brand new filters are less efficient than used filters, that's a fact.
3. Already mentioned, but many owner's manuals including my Honda recommend changing the filter only every second oil change.
if there is a person on here that doesnt know all the oil doesnt drain he has never rebuilt an engine, even the old sbcs hold a qt in the oil galley so its not news. in fact its the reason old timers always stayed with the same oil brand.
if you refuse to change your filter thats cool its your car but why spend 20 to 40 dollars on oil and not change the 4 dollar filter?? are you cheap or just trying to make a point?
if its a money thing and your running pyb thats cool but if your using a high dollar syn on an old filter thats really amazing to me lol.
and how in the world do you figure an old filter is better than a new one?? a new filter will flow more oil because it doesnt have small particles trapped in the media. thata about like people saying changing your oil at 3k or less will harm an engine haha where do yall come up with this stuff???
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: ABerns
Well, if we're resurrecting an old thread, I may as well comment, too.
Normally, I change every time. For the first time ever, I'm doing the oil filter every other time. It gets even better - I'm doing this with a Fram PH5343 - yes, the orange can.
Why? I did a 4.5k mile run with one, and cut it open (http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2038125) and it seemed OK. Now, the car has a massive vacuum leak, so there is plenty of unfiltered air being pulled in - it won't even idle on its own. 225k miles on the car. So, I'm running the oil around 4k per change, and I'm going to see what happens when I push 7-8k on a Fram orange can. It's an experiment I'm doing as a result of two emotions - curiosity and apathy towards the car. I can't bring myself to junk the car, and I can't bring myself to entirely ignore maintenance or forcefully kill it, so I'll use it as my oil and filter experimenter. I really don't think it'll mind. Once I cut this filter open, I'll post the pictures.
As far as the other cars I maintain - new filter every time. Granted, the OCIs are usually 5-7k on cheaper filters.
i look forward to your pics!!
have you thought about looking for the vacuum leak? its probably something easy lol
Well, if we're resurrecting an old thread, I may as well comment, too.
Normally, I change every time. For the first time ever, I'm doing the oil filter every other time. It gets even better - I'm doing this with a Fram PH5343 - yes, the orange can.
Why? I did a 4.5k mile run with one, and cut it open (http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2038125) and it seemed OK. Now, the car has a massive vacuum leak, so there is plenty of unfiltered air being pulled in - it won't even idle on its own. 225k miles on the car. So, I'm running the oil around 4k per change, and I'm going to see what happens when I push 7-8k on a Fram orange can. It's an experiment I'm doing as a result of two emotions - curiosity and apathy towards the car. I can't bring myself to junk the car, and I can't bring myself to entirely ignore maintenance or forcefully kill it, so I'll use it as my oil and filter experimenter. I really don't think it'll mind. Once I cut this filter open, I'll post the pictures.
As far as the other cars I maintain - new filter every time. Granted, the OCIs are usually 5-7k on cheaper filters.
i look forward to your pics!!
have you thought about looking for the vacuum leak? its probably something easy lol
Originally Posted By: electrolover
Originally Posted By: flatlandtacoma
2. The filters I have cut open after a single oil change have not been loaded at all. Brand new filters are less efficient than used filters, that's a fact.
and how in the world do you figure an old filter is better than a new one?? a new filter will flow more oil because it doesnt have small particles trapped in the media.
Unless the old filter is loaded, the new filter won't "flow more oil". It will only let more and larger particles through. If you don't understand that a filter gets more efficient with use, I can't help you.
Originally Posted By: flatlandtacoma
2. The filters I have cut open after a single oil change have not been loaded at all. Brand new filters are less efficient than used filters, that's a fact.
and how in the world do you figure an old filter is better than a new one?? a new filter will flow more oil because it doesnt have small particles trapped in the media.
Unless the old filter is loaded, the new filter won't "flow more oil". It will only let more and larger particles through. If you don't understand that a filter gets more efficient with use, I can't help you.
really? a new element will flow the same as a used element? thats not very swooft. even if its not "loaded" flow decreases as the filter catches particles because those particles however small take up space that would otherwise be void. its common sence...
an if a filter is good to 20 microns, its good to 20 microns
if it is good to 15, its good to 15
an if a filter is good to 20 microns, its good to 20 microns
if it is good to 15, its good to 15
Originally Posted By: electrolover
have you thought about looking for the vacuum leak? its probably something easy lol
Yeah, I have narrowed down the leak to either a bad intake manifold gasket, or a warped head. Either way, with a 225k mile car, I won't be fixing it. However, in late fall I covered the area with Permatex, and it almost sealed the leak up. So when it warms up a little, I'll slather on some more Permatex. Yeah, the car's a real gem right now ;-)
have you thought about looking for the vacuum leak? its probably something easy lol
Yeah, I have narrowed down the leak to either a bad intake manifold gasket, or a warped head. Either way, with a 225k mile car, I won't be fixing it. However, in late fall I covered the area with Permatex, and it almost sealed the leak up. So when it warms up a little, I'll slather on some more Permatex. Yeah, the car's a real gem right now ;-)
Originally Posted By: electrolover
really? a new element will flow the same as a used element? thats not very swooft. even if its not "loaded" flow decreases as the filter catches particles because those particles however small take up space that would otherwise be void. its common sence...
an if a filter is good to 20 microns, its good to 20 microns
if it is good to 15, its good to 15
I think the point being hit on here is that if a filter is good to 20 microns, as it ages and builds up gunk the filter becomes efficient at smaller microns, down to 15 microns or 10. That's what I get from that.
really? a new element will flow the same as a used element? thats not very swooft. even if its not "loaded" flow decreases as the filter catches particles because those particles however small take up space that would otherwise be void. its common sence...
an if a filter is good to 20 microns, its good to 20 microns
if it is good to 15, its good to 15
I think the point being hit on here is that if a filter is good to 20 microns, as it ages and builds up gunk the filter becomes efficient at smaller microns, down to 15 microns or 10. That's what I get from that.
Originally Posted By: electrolover
really? a new element will flow the same as a used element? thats not very swooft. even if its not "loaded" flow decreases as the filter catches particles because those particles however small take up space that would otherwise be void. its common sence...
Yeah, really. The dp across a filter, even a moderately dirty one, is very small. And the oil pump is positive displacement. Both filters flow the same.
really? a new element will flow the same as a used element? thats not very swooft. even if its not "loaded" flow decreases as the filter catches particles because those particles however small take up space that would otherwise be void. its common sence...
Yeah, really. The dp across a filter, even a moderately dirty one, is very small. And the oil pump is positive displacement. Both filters flow the same.
Originally Posted By: ABerns
Originally Posted By: electrolover
have you thought about looking for the vacuum leak? its probably something easy lol
Yeah, I have narrowed down the leak to either a bad intake manifold gasket, or a warped head. Either way, with a 225k mile car, I won't be fixing it. However, in late fall I covered the area with Permatex, and it almost sealed the leak up. So when it warms up a little, I'll slather on some more Permatex. Yeah, the car's a real gem right now ;-)
thats awesome! i bet it keeps going just to spite you
i would do all kinds of experiments with it. see how well a 20k uoa with pyb looks
Originally Posted By: electrolover
have you thought about looking for the vacuum leak? its probably something easy lol
Yeah, I have narrowed down the leak to either a bad intake manifold gasket, or a warped head. Either way, with a 225k mile car, I won't be fixing it. However, in late fall I covered the area with Permatex, and it almost sealed the leak up. So when it warms up a little, I'll slather on some more Permatex. Yeah, the car's a real gem right now ;-)
thats awesome! i bet it keeps going just to spite you
i would do all kinds of experiments with it. see how well a 20k uoa with pyb looks
Originally Posted By: flatlandtacoma
Originally Posted By: electrolover
really? a new element will flow the same as a used element? thats not very swooft. even if its not "loaded" flow decreases as the filter catches particles because those particles however small take up space that would otherwise be void. its common sence...
Yeah, really. The dp across a filter, even a moderately dirty one, is very small. And the oil pump is positive displacement. Both filters flow the same.
so pretty much what your saying is restriction in a pressurized environment is not restriction? i know alot of supercharged fellas that would beg to differ. the way i see it restriction is restriction. in a pressurized environment reducing restriction increases flow even more. otherwise no one with a turbo would ever buy high flowing heads or intakes.
im no scientist, but i do portwork and understand flow characteristics very well. oil is just like air its just thicker. a dirty airfilter is restrictive same as a dirty oil filter. like i said spaces filled that would be void = less flow. i dont know how much because i have not measured but i do know it drops flow. THATS COMMON SENSE!!
Originally Posted By: electrolover
really? a new element will flow the same as a used element? thats not very swooft. even if its not "loaded" flow decreases as the filter catches particles because those particles however small take up space that would otherwise be void. its common sence...
Yeah, really. The dp across a filter, even a moderately dirty one, is very small. And the oil pump is positive displacement. Both filters flow the same.
so pretty much what your saying is restriction in a pressurized environment is not restriction? i know alot of supercharged fellas that would beg to differ. the way i see it restriction is restriction. in a pressurized environment reducing restriction increases flow even more. otherwise no one with a turbo would ever buy high flowing heads or intakes.
im no scientist, but i do portwork and understand flow characteristics very well. oil is just like air its just thicker. a dirty airfilter is restrictive same as a dirty oil filter. like i said spaces filled that would be void = less flow. i dont know how much because i have not measured but i do know it drops flow. THATS COMMON SENSE!!
Change the oil filter when you change the oil PERIOD
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