Change Oil After Storage? Yes Or No

[White Fang]

I only change the oil and filter on my motorcycle every fall. It sits in storage from November thru March. I can't see that it makes any difference if the oil sits all winter in the bottle or in the motorcycle's oil tank. I have never had any trouble and get good UOA's. I use synthetic, but I don't imagine it matters whether it's dino. The principle is the same.

 

[Schmoe]

I'll bet that 90% of us boaters change oil prior to winter set up, then next spring, we run that same oil until the next winter setup (that is if you don't put over a 100 hours or so on the engine during the summer months). UOA's have come back A.OK. If you let the sitting engine run long enough after hibernation, it will burn off the fuel and water contamination. I think that is the key, let it run.

 

[trey]

Hey white fang, I kinda disagree with you on your comment, I think that oil that sits in an un opened bottle is way more air tight then in an engine.

 

[Al]

Don't bother. Also if you are gonna run it make sure you get it hot. And do it on a day that is about as warm as possible. Just starting a vehicle up and idling it causes fuel dilution, moisture and iron. I think you are better off not starting it up at all if you are not going to get it up to temp for 15 minutes. Really doesn't make any difference if it is syn or not.

 

[SR77]

I would like to hear from others if you think you should change the oil & filter after a few months storage if the oil & filter was changed before the storage? Would it matter between synthetic or dino oil? Thanks everyone

 

[V6 Diesel]

I recently posted a UOA from my truck, changed the oil last October and it sat until May, started it and idled a few times during the winter. Then drove it about 1400 miles during the summer until I changed it again this October. It needed changed by this time, fuel dilution had builtup and it had some water from condensation. Iron was only 10ppm which I expected to be higher from the winter. I opened the hood last week in the morning and noticed the entire engine was wet from the morning dew so would have expected the iron to be higher from this type of cycle. The truck does sit outside so maybe a garage would be easier on the engine and oil during storage. I would think you should be able to keep using the same oil after sitting for a few months. Just maybe change it sooner. I have another test coming, oil has been in this engine for 6 years of storage. Also could run another test on oil that has been sitting in a factory new engine for 21 years.

 

[SR77]

Thanks for the replys. Anyone else

 

[JohnnyO]

quote:

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Originally posted by Al: Just starting a vehicle up and idling it causes fuel dilution, moisture and iron. I think you are better off not starting it up at all if you are not going to get it up to temp for 15 minutes.

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Exactly. In my opinion if the vehicle is stored in a reasonably warm place I wouldn't worry about it, if it's outdoors or in an unheated garage or barn (condensation) then I would change it out in the spring but I probably wouldn't bother changing the filter if it was changed in the fall.

 

[shortyb]

quote:

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Originally posted by JohnnyO:

quote:

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Originally posted by Al: Just starting a vehicle up and idling it causes fuel dilution, moisture and iron. I think you are better off not starting it up at all if you are not going to get it up to temp for 15 minutes.

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Exactly. In my opinion if the vehicle is stored in a reasonably warm place I wouldn't worry about it, if it's outdoors or in an unheated garage or barn (condensation) then I would change it out in the spring but I probably wouldn't bother changing the filter if it was changed in the fall.

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I agree with Al also. I have stored several motorcycles by changing oil and filter prior to lay up, not changing the oil after storage, and not running them til its time to hit the road. Never had any problems. Stabilize the fuel, run the vehicle, then change the oil & filter. Try to get as much fuel out of the lines, filter etc as you can. Then fill the tank up as far as you can to keep moisture out. JohnnyO-I have found a warm storage area to be the WORST place for a stored vehicle. The warmth causes more water to vaporize. Ever walk into a shed in the middle of summer? Unless you live in the desert, you probably had to cut through the humidity with a machete. The best places I've found are unheated, well ventilated areas that experience small changes in temp. My .02 .

 

[2K2AcuraTL]

On another angle (as I was going to post an identical question soon.... ). I usualy have the opportunity to DRIVE the car once a month during hangar season... ie: clear,dry day ..usualy means cold... because I dont want that G** awfull raod salt solution splashing all over the car. So do I change before or after hangar season as I have about 7500km on RP 5W30. Thanks Jean

 

[Patman]

quote:

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Originally posted by 2K2AcuraTL: On another angle (as I was going to post an identical question soon.... ). I usualy have the opportunity to DRIVE the car once a month during hangar season... ie: clear,dry day ..usualy means cold... because I dont want that G** awfull raod salt solution splashing all over the car. So do I change before or after hangar season as I have about 7500km on RP 5W30. Thanks Jean

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If you only expect to be driving the car once per month, and have 7500 kilometers on your oil, I would definitely change it before putting the car away. Think of all the damage that can occur even if you only sat one full week between running the engine, let alone 4 weeks. And what if we get a brutal winter and you can't drive it at all? That happened to me in the winter of 99-00. I put my 98 Firebird in the garage of my new house and it did not move for four solid months, the roads just never got clean enough for me to want to take it out. Luckily I had changed the oil less than 100km before putting it away. I did not start the engine once, I left it as is. In the spring it fired up no problem and ran smoothly and made no strange noises.