I really do not want to join another forum to ask this elementary question but what is the reason or benefit with the width of these two chains? And secondly on the box when you buy the chain what number pertains to this width of the cutting tooth.?
Chain saw chain tooth width. Photo attached.
- Thread starter Fordiesel69
- Start date
The pitch. .325 vs 3/8, vs 404.
Gauge refers to the drive links, how it fits the bar. The bar groove width i.e. .050, .058, .063.
The pitch will have to match your drive sprocket and bar tip sprocket. Pitch is the distance between the drive link rivets divided by 2.
Gauge refers to the drive links, how it fits the bar. The bar groove width i.e. .050, .058, .063.
The pitch will have to match your drive sprocket and bar tip sprocket. Pitch is the distance between the drive link rivets divided by 2.
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With the narrower bar and chain (narrow kerf), the same horsepower saw can push a longer bar. The downside is it is a lot easier to bend the blade and the chains tend to wear faster.
I've got a couple of Husky saws. One has a narrow kerf. I manage to ruin a bar just about every time I pinch it. User error is involved, but if I have a choice I'll use the saw with the thicker bar every time.
I've got a couple of Husky saws. One has a narrow kerf. I manage to ruin a bar just about every time I pinch it. User error is involved, but if I have a choice I'll use the saw with the thicker bar every time.
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Could you rephrase what exactly you are asking for in the first part. Typically that all ties into your bar and you are limited to a certain size.
If you know exactly what your saw takes you can see the available chains and the differences.
this explains some.. maybe read and come back with more questions?
https://www.powerequipmentdirect.co...Z1-LV34DST7y4yBclfxI5z28HDyg1JqsaAujqEALw_wcB
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There are different tooth styles. That is a different spec from the pitch or gauge. Yes wider teeth cut a wider slot in the log which is less likely to bind, but it requires more horsepower from the engine.
Both of those chains have been resharpened so comparing what they would be new is not clear.
Both of those chains have been resharpened so comparing what they would be new is not clear.
I think the OP is asking about the width of the cutter, not the length. ArrestMERedZ addresses this well. A good analogy would be using a narrow kerf (thickness) table saw blade on a low power saw vs. regular kerf blade on a higher power table saw. It takes less horsepower with the narrower blade and this is the main reason you find the narrower blade on smaller saws. Even professional grade lower horsepower arborist (tree climber) saws have the narrower chain cutters, as do pole pruners.
As stated, there are trade offs and pros/cons with narrower vs. wider cutters (and other chain components). And, lots of other factors play into chain efficiency. The manufacturers usually match the chain size to the saw size/power/intended use. Pros might alter these OEM setups for specific situations, but most of us don't need to be concerned with this.
Regarding the second question, the width will be engineered by the manufacture for best efficiency to match the pitch, gauge, drive links: https://www.husqvarna.com/nz/learn-and-discover/chainsaw-chain-guide/ . The chain, bar, and sprocket all have to match, so I don't think tooth width will be a purchase choice with any given bar/sprocket OEM setup (with some specialty use exceptions - i.e, chainsaw carving).
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I will rephrase what I am asking. On the photo in my first post, im not talking about the length of the silver cutting teeth, as yes both of these are worn and have been sharpened. What I am asking is the silver teeth are visually wider on the chain shown on the bottom and the tooth is much narrower on the top chain.
When using them, them feel completely different. Both came with my Husky 350 and it still has the factory home owner grade 18" bar.
I'm not near my saws but maybe the difference between a low kick back chain vs a pro chain. Using pro chains on my saws they really rip wood vs the low kick back chains that usually come standard. Bigger cutters on a pro chain? I'm not positive though.
Yeah, I answered a question not asked. The chains are the same, except for perhaps the cutting blade style. I think repairman has it right.
There is no number that pertains to the tooth dimensions you are talking about.
One looks like the chain that came with the saw
usually low kickback etc.
the other appears to be a more aggressive chain.
Its hard to tell from the pic but one appears to be full chisel and the other semi chisel.
Disclaimer: not an expert.
Are you shopping for a replacement chain? I like the oregon super 70 chain on my echo timberwolf cs 590
A low kickback chain is ok for straight cuts through downed timber. One came with the saw.
The more aggressive chain(the other 5 I have) works MUCH better when you have to nose cut.. or cut an angle to the wood.
Wider teeth can also help with binding.. but takes more work/hp to get it though the log.
I have a few of these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008PD1KRG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and a couple of these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H9RP241/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
One looks like the chain that came with the saw
usually low kickback etc.
the other appears to be a more aggressive chain.
Its hard to tell from the pic but one appears to be full chisel and the other semi chisel.
Disclaimer: not an expert.
Are you shopping for a replacement chain? I like the oregon super 70 chain on my echo timberwolf cs 590
A low kickback chain is ok for straight cuts through downed timber. One came with the saw.
The more aggressive chain(the other 5 I have) works MUCH better when you have to nose cut.. or cut an angle to the wood.
Wider teeth can also help with binding.. but takes more work/hp to get it though the log.
I have a few of these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008PD1KRG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and a couple of these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H9RP241/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Hah, I did the same thing!
The top chain appears narrower because it is sharpened back a lot more.Both chains are low kickback safety chains as evidenced by the double raker. And yes, you can see the curved cutter of the top chain (semi chisel/chipper) vs. the sharp corner of the bottom chain (chisel).
..........................................................................................................................................................double raker low kickback
The full chisel will cut faster/better, but will dull faster in dirty wood. I went to semi chisel due to the nature of my work.
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