2003 Chevy Malibu one front wheel is eating outside pad guide pins lubed and seem like there is no binding.have just replaced pads and no hardware.
causes for uneven brake pad wear
- Thread starter Fitter30
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Are there rubber O-rings or bushings on the slide pins or caliper body/bracket? How are the pad ears and support ledges looking?
Some brake lubes can cause rubber to swell up, and old boots/O-rings/bushings can also cause drag.
Some brake lubes can cause rubber to swell up, and old boots/O-rings/bushings can also cause drag.
For that year/make/model I would certainly check the guide pins. I've got a 99 Grand Am and I would be willing to bet some money that they didn't change too much brake wise by 2003. Other than sheet metal I think they are similar in bones. I've had to replace the entire bracket/pins/boots twice on this car because they seize up. Also had to put new calipers on both sides. They sell fully loaded calipers on eBay for pretty cheap. Just had 2 rotors that came with a set of Powerstop Ceramic pads delivered from eBay for $42 and that includes shipping. Definitely check eBay out!
Overall, I think the braking system sux big time in this car and it always has. Even with all the work I've done. Had the brake fluid flushed once and bled a few times by the shop as well. I don't drive it on the highway because I don't want to risk the safety of others nor myself. It's just an around town beater to keep the miles off my new car.
Overall, I think the braking system sux big time in this car and it always has. Even with all the work I've done. Had the brake fluid flushed once and bled a few times by the shop as well. I don't drive it on the highway because I don't want to risk the safety of others nor myself. It's just an around town beater to keep the miles off my new car.
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As another user stated it's almost always a Seized caliper piston or rusted/improperly lubed guide pins.
Don't forget to check the rubber brake hose for soft collapsed sections, it will trap fluid and either not let the piston engage or retract.
If no bad hoses are found then either replace or rebuild the bad caliper
Don't forget to check the rubber brake hose for soft collapsed sections, it will trap fluid and either not let the piston engage or retract.
If no bad hoses are found then either replace or rebuild the bad caliper
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heres a question.. Should slider pins be re-lubed at some point between pad changes? I ask because on my 2010 mazda 3 I never touched the brakes once in the 115k miles I owned it.
Originally Posted By: E150GT
heres a question.. Should slider pins be re-lubed at some point between pad changes? I ask because on my 2010 mazda 3 I never touched the brakes once in the 115k miles I owned it.
Considering the relative ease of disc brake work I don't think it could ever hurt. Especially if you live in an area where they use salt in the winter. I tear mine down annually and wire brush the pins down clean and clean out the pin holes and guide pin boots. And I always use: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80078-Anti-Seize-Lubricant-Bottle/dp/B000FW7VGE
heres a question.. Should slider pins be re-lubed at some point between pad changes? I ask because on my 2010 mazda 3 I never touched the brakes once in the 115k miles I owned it.
Considering the relative ease of disc brake work I don't think it could ever hurt. Especially if you live in an area where they use salt in the winter. I tear mine down annually and wire brush the pins down clean and clean out the pin holes and guide pin boots. And I always use: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80078-Anti-Seize-Lubricant-Bottle/dp/B000FW7VGE
On GM cars the number one culprit for poor brake pad life is the hardware. The pad hardware should be changed every time the pads are changed. But most do not get changed. They rust and do not allow the pads to move freely. Change the hardware and apply brake lube where the pad touches the hardware and your problem should be solved
Don
Don
thanks for all the help
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