Castrol's Titanium or Royal Purple's Synerlec?

[CATERHAM]

Then why are you running a GP III 200 VI 0W-20 in your Subie?
Sounds a little contradictory to me.

The fact is high VI oils, even ultra high VI oils like the 0W-20 you're running are very shear stable despite the high levels of VIIs they contain.
The low VI 10w30 grade is technically obsolete when you're talking synthetic oils and has been replaced by the higher VI 5w30 grade. The only reason it's still made is for marketing purposes (it's also cheap to formulate) to satisfy the demand from those that simply don't understand motor oil.

 

[Ken2]

Quote:
Synerlec is a better mix for fuel efficiency, and Titanium is a substitute for ZDDP which is a better protectant.
Does anyone know exactly what Synerlec actually is, or is it just the marketing department's latest volley?

Titanium is not a substitute for ZDDP. It is a sub for moly. Either Ti or moly combines with zddp to make a wear resistant low friction film on contact surfaces.

 

[Robenstein]

Synerlec is probably much like Chevron's Isosyn, and whatever Mobil 1 used to claim. I think all those fancy terms kinda started back in the day with Pennzoil and their "Purebase" oil.

Basically its usually just their fancy term for their synthetic oil blend.

 

[CATERHAM]

Synerlec is (was) a sulfur containing ester additive by all acounts.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Then why are you running a GP III 200 VI 0W-20 in your Subie?
Sounds a little contradictory to me.

The fact is high VI oils, even ultra high VI oils like the 0W-20 you're running are very shear stable despite the high levels of VIIs they contain.
The low VI 10w30 grade is technically obsolete when you're talking synthetic oils and has been replaced by the higher VI 5w30 grade. The only reason it's still made is for marketing purposes (it's also cheap to formulate) to satisfy the demand from those that simply don't understand motor oil.
On the Subaru I am limited to their oil. As soon as I can get SOA tech to allow 30 grade - thats whats goin in (if its not too late!. Now, re; 10W30 ATM: How can a moderate HTHS, highly stable lubricant paradigm be obsoleted by a Low (read: inadequate) HTHS high VI lube as they are such different animals? The low HTHS/Low-vis oils have time and time and time again proved NOT to work on the road for our fleet. Just plain DONT work. The subaru ALWAYS demonstrates a loud knock after a moderate stress highway run. As does (did) the Mazda DOHC truck engine, as does the Honda Fit L 15A, Engines should not knock loudly hot. Never. I'll hate and blame any oil with HTHS under mid 3's combined with poor film strength and low zddp. They are all marginal lubes and therefore garbage for those who would like a long lived gas engine that does NOT sound like a cold diesel. Never had lube problems before cat life and fuel mileage became ILSAC priority Uber Alles. Sorry my discussion turned aginst low hths which is not = high Vi per se.

 

[CATERHAM]

What you don't get is that oil viscosity changes with temperature. Yeh you say you do but you don't really.
Even a ultra high VI 0W-20 oil like the Subie 0W-20 is heavier than optimum until your oil temp's are at least up to 80C or so. In most vehicles where a 20wt oil is specified oil temp's rarely even reach 95C; most hover in the 75C to 90C range. At 80C that 2.6cP HTHSV 20wt has the same operational viscosity as a 3.8cP 40wt at 100C.

It's operational viscosity that matters not the oil grade or HTHSV rating of the oil. If you think a 20wt oil is too light install an oil pressure gauge so that you will know what the actually operational viscosity of the oil is at all times. Then you'll see first hand just how must viscosity reserve you actually have with a 20wt oil.

 

[aquariuscsm]

I remember something called "Pennzoil with Pennzane" a long time ago.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
What you don't get is that oil viscosity changes with temperature. Yeh you say you do but you don't really.
Even a ultra high VI 0W-20 oil like the Subie 0W-20 is heavier than optimum until your oil temp's are at least up to 80C or so. In most vehicles where a 20wt oil is specified oil temp's rarely even reach 95C; most hover in the 75C to 90C range. At 80C that 2.6cP HTHSV 20wt has the same operational viscosity as a 3.8cP 40wt at 100C.

It's operational viscosity that matters not the oil grade or HTHSV rating of the oil. If you think a 20wt oil is too light install an oil pressure gauge so that you will know what the actually operational viscosity of the oil is at all times. Then you'll see first hand just how must viscosity reserve you actually have with a 20wt oil.
OIL presssure gauge alone does not determine if oil weight is sufficient. The dynamic behind the piston at TDC BTC and in the rod big ends is critical. No Kiiding oil vis changes with temp. No kidding on any given "non blueprint engine with typ manufacturing variations the margin of safe operation shift with a 2.6 HTHS vs 3.5 is HUGE. Or Cold wide clearanced 3.1 v 4.0. but is All acedemic if ALL my engine are failing. And they are. Why I dont buy cars that spec "normal" weight oil - and take oil out of the failure equation - well thats MY dangtootin fault

 

[Dumc87]

Just a followup; I went with Rotella T6 5w40.

Went to Wal Mart to buy a 5 gal jug of Mobil 1 0w40, and they didn't have it. I took that as a sign (plus various recommendations) to give the T6 a try.

The infamous lifter tick of the VG30DE was instantly quieted down.

Currently, the Z is still on the jack stands, as I am upgrading the front brakes to TT calipers and 350Z track rotors. I'll keep tabs on how my MPG's are and hopefully get a Blackstone report after 4K miles.

Might go with Mobil 1 0w40 depending on the results of the test, or if MPG's suffer too greatly, which I don't think will happen.

Thanks again fellas!