Castrol's Titanium or Royal Purple's Synerlec?

[JAG]

Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: Dumc87
Going to change oil soon in my '90 300ZX and thought I'd come on here for some advice/info on what's "better" per se between an oil with Titanium as an additive over Royal Purple's Synerlec.

From what I understand, Synerlec is a better mix for fuel efficiency, and Titanium is a substitute for ZDDP which is a better protectant.


They're not really competing technologies, nor, strictly speaking, are old style RP and a modern API oil true competitors. The Synerlec additive is something that they don't have in the latest SN/GF-5 versions of RP; I believe it bumps up phosphorus levels. So, if it has Synerlec, it's either the new non-API rated stuff, or the older SL versions, both of which have plenty of ZDDP. So, they don't need a "substitute" for ZDDP such as titanium.

bruce381 told me he thought it was a sulfurized ester. Was their a reduction on the sulfur limit from ILSAC GF-4 to GF-5?

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: JAG
bruce381 told me he thought it was a sulfurized ester. Was their a reduction on the sulfur limit from ILSAC GF-4 to GF-5?


I may have been confused; I believe you're right on that. As or any reduction from GF-4 to GF-5, I'm not sure. They did upgrade straight from SL/GF-3 to SN/GF-5 and dropped the Synerlec for the ILSAC grades (already not in the 0w-40). So, I'm not sure if it's because of the jump to GF-5, SN, or both.

 

[aquariuscsm]

Id say give the Mobil 1 10W40HM a go. So far its been my favorite oil in my Z. Definitely dont go thinner than a 40 weight. Oh,and whatever you do,be sure and drive it fast and hard occasionally. VG30DE engines crave high rpms. Once you hit between 3500-4000 rpms youll feel the powerband kick in and itll feel like youre driving a 2 stroke dirt bike! Be prepared to be thrown back in your seat :^)

 

[Dumc87]

Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Id say give the Mobil 1 10W40HM a go. So far its been my favorite oil in my Z. Definitely dont go thinner than a 40 weight. Oh,and whatever you do,be sure and drive it fast and hard occasionally. VG30DE engines crave high rpms. Once you hit between 3500-4000 rpms youll feel the powerband kick in and itll feel like youre driving a 2 stroke dirt bike! Be prepared to be thrown back in your seat :^)


Oh I'll have to, once it's running! lol I've been doing some deletes and installed headers/test pipes so I'm pretty sure I'll enjoy a few 4K mile spirited runs.

In terms of keeping a 40 weight, if it is better for the VG30DE, I'd just assume go Rotella T6. Not even sure I've seen Mobil 1 10w40HM? Is that a full syn?

I know a bunch of guys like Rotella, Mobil 1 or Royal Purple in their VG's

 

[aquariuscsm]

Yep,Mobil 1 10W40HM (High Mileage) oil is a full synth. It has the higher zddp level (1100ppm according to Mobil).

 

[CATERHAM]

Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Definitely dont go thinner than a 40 weight.

The factory spec' oil grade is a 10w30 conventional.
A modern 5w30 synthetic for a conservatively driven car is as heavy as you need to go.

Yes a bottle of Red Line Break-In Additive should be available a Summit. I think a target of 900 ppm of phosphorus is the most you'll need. A single bottle will last for years.

 

[Dumc87]

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Definitely dont go thinner than a 40 weight.

The factory spec' oil grade is a 10w30 conventional.
A modern 5w30 synthetic for a conservatively driven car is as heavy as you need to go.

Yes a bottle of Red Line Break-In Additive should be available a Summit. I think a target of 900 ppm of phosphorus is the most you'll need. A single bottle will last for years.


Do you know the specs on Mobil 1 High Mileage 5w30? Mobil 1 is starting to win me over with it's overwhelming thumbs up reviews. The gallon jugs at Walmart are an attractive price.

 

[Dumc87]

Oh! As aquariuscsm is most likely aware, the VG30 has been noted to develop a ticking sound in oil grades less than 40. Some fellas run the Rotella T6 5w40 to eliminate the sound.

I'm going to use a flush that's gotten rave reviews from the Z32 community, so the tick shouldn't be my problem. I've basically decided the the Mobil 1 High Mileage oil will be my next purchase, 5w30 if they have it, 10w30 if they don't.

 

[CATERHAM]

The only reason I would ever consider a High Mileage oil is for the higher levels of seal swell they contain to deal with a suspected seal leak. If you don't have the problem I definitely prefer the regular 5w30 which is lighter and has a higher VI.
I wouldn't use the low VI 10w30 even if it was free.

 

[Dumc87]

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
The only reason I would ever consider a High Mileage oil is for the higher levels of seal swell they contain to deal with a suspected seal leak. If you don't have the problem I definitely prefer the regular 5w30 which is lighter and has a higher VI.
I wouldn't use the low VI 10w30 even if it was free.


Well the Z32 has two infamous leaks; High Pressure Power Steering line and the Rear Main Seal. I replaced ALL of my Power Steering lines, and the seals on the front of the motor are all new; but I suspect my Rear Main may have a slight leak. I'm really not sure, I just know my engine bay was filthy, and underneath the motor there's quite a bit of sludge, but I also haven't had the engine/fascia shields attached, so who knows what the actual cause of all the goo is.

The motor does have 137K miles on it, so I'm sure the additive package in a High Mileage oil wouldn't hurt anything, but I see your point is using the 5w30 since it is lighter; should improve the efficiency that I'm after.

 

[aquariuscsm]

Don`t go thinner than a 10W30. The Z32 FSM:

 

[LeakySeals]

Walmart was flooded with Mobil 1 High Mileage 5w30 so I gave it a try for the first time last year. Over the 1st 1500 miles the changes in the engine were remarkable. Now I use it exclusively in two Toyotas with 150k+, they love it. Its thick for its grade, loaded with cleaners and anti-wear additives. As far as the seal conditioners, it helped with a leaky oil pan on one, a valve cover on the other. Both still need to be replaced, but its no longer an emergency.

 

[Durango]

The last time I looked at a bottle of Royal Purple it didn't give any specs on what cars/trucks the oil can be used on. The price for it was outrageious to say the least but now Castrol synthetic is now priced just as high.

Right now I'm better of using Mobil "Super Synthetic".

Durango

 

[aquariuscsm]

Only affordable place to get synthetic oil is Walmart in their 5 quart jugs. All the autoparts chains want $9-10 a quart for all brands. Walmart`s 5 quart jugs equal to around $4.50 a quart.

 

[aquariuscsm]

It`s almost like if you want synthetic oil,might as well go whole hog and get Redline. It`s the same price as a dino grp III practically,give or take a few cents.

 

[LeakySeals]

Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
It`s almost like if you want synthetic oil,might as well go whole hog and get Redline. It`s the same price as a dino grp III practically,give or take a few cents.


Point me to where you buy that cheap.

 

[45ACP]

Royal Purple does not have Synerlec in it anymore but i would still use their 0W-40 over other oils.

 

[45ACP]

Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Don`t go thinner than a 10W30. The Z32 FSM:

Says it all, right there.

0W-40 RP would be my first choice in that engine.

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: 45ACP
Royal Purple does not have Synerlec in it anymore but i would still use their 0W-40 over other oils.


You can still get it if you find the legacy bottles or their new HPS series. The API SN bottles don't have it, though.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
The only reason I would ever consider a High Mileage oil is for the higher levels of seal swell they contain to deal with a suspected seal leak. If you don't have the problem I definitely prefer the regular 5w30 which is lighter and has a higher VI.
I wouldn't use the low VI 10w30 even if it was free.
Oh stop it with the high vI or bust. Thats like saying, I only want a Blond girl with Green eyes. Go look at that VI after 2K miles of Winter commuting and see what its like on a group III. If the high VI comes "au natural" with a premium basetock I would say high VI fine, but if it comes with the burden of high VII adds - then forget it. Not on my killer commute. BTW, I'll take 10w30 ATM over any current ilsac garbage oil on the market