Castrol RS 10w50, Toyota 2.4L 2AZ-FE, 5024km

[Ken4]

This is my third UOA on my 2002 Toyota Ipsum done by Dyson Analysis. Latest results on the right, oldest on the left.

Oil
Toyota OEM, Castrol RS 10w50, Castrol RS 10w50

Mileage on car
1072km, 6056km, 11080km

Mileage on oil
1072km, 4984km, 5024km

Time on oil
1month, 7months, 6.5months

Make-up oil
none, none, none

IR
Soot (St)
44, 0, 0
Oxidation (Oxi) 76 = 38%
22, 63, 76
Nitration (Nit) 105 = 52.5%
30, 77, 105
Sulfation (Sul)
18, 40, 75

Metal
Iron (Fe)
6, 11, 11
Copper (Cu)
47, 16, 4
Chromium (Cr)
0, 0, 0
Aluminum (Al)
7, 3, 2
Lead (Pb)
1, 7, 3
Tin (Sn)
1, 5, 1
Silicon (Si)
200, 69, 32
Sodium (Na)
3, 5, 1
Potassium (K)
0, 1, 0
Molybdenum (Mo)
435, 84, 12
Phosphorus (P)
693, 751, 741
Zinc (Zn)
861, 895, 850
Calcium (Ca)
1540, 2568, 2463
Magnesium (Mg)
16, 117, 174

Physical
Water (W)
N, N, N
Fuel (F)
N, N, N
Antifreeze (A)
N, N, N
Total Base Number (Tbn)
6, 6, 7
Viscosity At 100 C (V100)
9.4, 18.5, 17.9

[ February 18, 2004, 11:47 AM: Message edited by: Ken4 ]

 

[Patman]

quote:

---

Originally posted by TooSlick:
What do you think the ambient temps are in Singapore, compared to the Great White North?

---

I realize that, but I'm comparing his results to those of people on here, a lot of which also live in warm climates too, and see good results with the thinner oils in summer.

 

[Al]

I really feel 50 wt oil is just tooooo much. Nice results-the contaminants/wear metals are coming down.

[ February 18, 2004, 05:30 PM: Message edited by: Al ]

 

[JohnBrowning]

Notice how much lower his break in wear is compared to an LS1! Notice also how quickly it is trending done as compared to an LS1 or any Gen III small block! In 11,000 miles he is down to single digit numbers across the board! THis compared to 50,000 miles some claim it itakes the LS1 to settle down.

**** DIsclaimer***** The LS1 and Gen III small block are being used for comparison purposes only. I am trying to demonstrate the difference in materials and material tereatment and finish. I am not trying to corralate a life cycle analysis based on differences!

 

[Sumerduckman]

Ken, what are Toyota's viscosity recommendations for this engine in Singapore? Would it be the same as delivered in Japan? It looks like it was shipped with a 30w in it. If you have posted this previously, I apoligize I could not find it!

 

[Ken4]

Recommended oil for this vehicle here.

 

[Sumerduckman]

Ken, thanks for the info. Interesting. Especially the addition of the 5w20. I will have my son translate it for me!

 

[Patman]

This oil business is confusing sometimes. We're seeing some awesome results lately with 0w20 oils, and here we're seeing good results with a 10w50 oil. So on the one hand there is an oil most people consider too thin, and in this case it's an oil most of us consider too thick. But yet it works.

 

[TooSlick]

What do you think the ambient temps are in Singapore, compared to the Great White North?

Apples and Oranges ....


For example, 1993-1999 Audi Engines:

< 14F/-10C .... 5w-20/5w-30

> 14F/-10C ....20w-40/20w-50

> 68F/+20C .... straight 40wt is even acceptable

[ February 18, 2004, 12:38 PM: Message edited by: TooSlick ]

 

[es]

quote:

---

Originally posted by JohnBrowning:
In 11,000 miles he is down to single digit numbers across the board!

---

It's actually 11,000 km

 

[Ken4]

Some people take 2 months to complete this kind of mileage. I take 14.5 months!

This vehicle sees mostly short trips.

I must say though, the Castrol RS has exceptional cleaning ability. The soot is zero. But I also feel that 50wt is too thick for my short trips. The oil never gets a chance to warm up fully, and most of time I'd be running around with an equivalent of a 60 or 70wt. I've switched to Castrol SLX 0w30 SL/A3 now, and I've noticed a 13~15% improvement in fuel economy. The only reason I've been using Castrol RS, is bcos I know it gives great wear protection, so I wanted to see a baseline of what wear I can expect from the 2AZ-FE when I compare it with other thinner oils I plan to use in future.

 

[Dr. T]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Patman:
This oil business is confusing sometimes. We're seeing some awesome results lately with 0w20 oils, and here we're seeing good results with a 10w50 oil. So on the one hand there is an oil most people consider too thin, and in this case it's an oil most of us consider too thick. But yet it works.

---

BINGO! What does that mean then? That a UOA does/is NOT showing us everything that's going on. That you can get good results from either a 5-20 or a 10-60! Why? Because the grade is/should only be based on a temperature scale.

That said, there is a practical side to things. General trends. One is decreased consumption with thicker oils. Two, decreased sludge and varnish build-up concurrent with number one. Three, increased drain intervals without both one and two.