I'm curious as to what you guys think in regards to eventually switching over to a full synthetic 5W-50, probably Castrol, when I run out of SAE 30 Kendall GT-1. Some of you may know that I've currently got 22 quarts of the Kendall, which I believe will last me approximately 4 years in my Roadmaster station wagon, but moving forward from that, shouldn't a synthetic 5W-50 emulate the flow characteristics of a 30 while offering better cold flow performance? I'm basing this off of my understanding that conventional 20W-50 and 30 have very similar specs such as pour point and flash point. Thoughts?
Castrol Edge 5W-50, Suitable Replacement For 30?
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I'd wait another 3-1/2 yrs to bring up this discussion. Who knows what better options may be out there in 4 yrs.
I'm surprised that 30 grades would have the same characteristics as a 50 grade. In Alabama probably not a huge difference from 5w,10w and 15w.
Rather than pour/flash points I'd be looking at the actual tested cold flow parameters of CCS and MRV, as well as HTHS for higher temp operating viscosity.
I'm surprised that 30 grades would have the same characteristics as a 50 grade. In Alabama probably not a huge difference from 5w,10w and 15w.
Rather than pour/flash points I'd be looking at the actual tested cold flow parameters of CCS and MRV, as well as HTHS for higher temp operating viscosity.
I'm going to try some out in a riding mower next summer. Honestly, I'd rather just locate another two cases of the Kendall and be stocked up for a decade. This is a food for thought thread more or less.
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I've used it a bunch of times and it pours through the funnel just like a 10W30. It's no where near as thick as a 20W50,as it's apparent the way it pours through a funnel vs a 20W50. I would use it as my *go to* oil but no one carries it here anymore.
Hi ya Red
I live in north AL. Which part of the state do you live in?
I am not quite sure why you want to use a 5w50 oil. That engine specification is what? 5w30 or 10w30?
Do you have consumption issues over short term?
The 5w oil should flow better at cold temps than the 30 monograde oil.
I keep Castrol 0w40 in my Jeep 6 cyl 4.0 liter. It stays outside all the time and cranks over easily with that oil.
I guess I was trying to figure out why you use the oil you do and are considering a 5w50
I live in north AL. Which part of the state do you live in?
I am not quite sure why you want to use a 5w50 oil. That engine specification is what? 5w30 or 10w30?
Do you have consumption issues over short term?
The 5w oil should flow better at cold temps than the 30 monograde oil.
I keep Castrol 0w40 in my Jeep 6 cyl 4.0 liter. It stays outside all the time and cranks over easily with that oil.
I guess I was trying to figure out why you use the oil you do and are considering a 5w50
If you want a thicker grade than what GM specified, just go to a 15w40 dual rated HDEO.
A similar oil in the 10w30 grade would also be a good pick.
It's not as though you live in a place that sees anything that could be called cold.
The only time I've used Syntec 5W-50 was when I got some for less than two bucks a quart on clearance. It won't remain a fifty grade for very long in service anyway.
A similar oil in the 10w30 grade would also be a good pick.
It's not as though you live in a place that sees anything that could be called cold.
The only time I've used Syntec 5W-50 was when I got some for less than two bucks a quart on clearance. It won't remain a fifty grade for very long in service anyway.
Before I'd go to a 15W-50, I'd make the switch to Rotella T6 (5W-40). It's a bit thin for the 40 at op temp. Too thick to make the 30 spec, so it gets assigned a 40 spec. More like a 35 in actual use.
It's readily available everywhere HDEO's are sold. It's good for mixed fleet use. I've been running it in some of our cars and it's good.
I'm a fan of straight SAE 30 also and your Kendall is good stuff. I like teh fact that it's all oil and no VII's. But when that runs out, getting SAE 30 HD from sources that won't charge boutique prices will be challenging. It's becoming a niche market...
I recently stocked up on Delo 15w30 SD (severe duty) when it was on sale on Amazon. I'll use that for hi-po motor break-in oil. I have enough to do 4 or 5 motors.
But for general use, I'm happy with T6. It's synthetic so the VII thing is less of an issue. Seems to hold up well. When I switched the Saab turbo over, the oil consumption went down to less than 1/2 of what it was
You might want to look into it ...
It's readily available everywhere HDEO's are sold. It's good for mixed fleet use. I've been running it in some of our cars and it's good.
I'm a fan of straight SAE 30 also and your Kendall is good stuff. I like teh fact that it's all oil and no VII's. But when that runs out, getting SAE 30 HD from sources that won't charge boutique prices will be challenging. It's becoming a niche market...
I recently stocked up on Delo 15w30 SD (severe duty) when it was on sale on Amazon. I'll use that for hi-po motor break-in oil. I have enough to do 4 or 5 motors.
But for general use, I'm happy with T6. It's synthetic so the VII thing is less of an issue. Seems to hold up well. When I switched the Saab turbo over, the oil consumption went down to less than 1/2 of what it was
You might want to look into it ...
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Originally Posted By: Red91
synthetic 5W-50 emulate the flow characteristics of a 30 while offering better cold flow performance? I'm basing this off of my understanding that conventional 20W-50 and 30 have very similar specs such as pour point and flash point. Thoughts?
No. Pour point and flash point ard two extremes which are not paricularly useful in predicting oil characteristics at normal operating temp.
At operating temp a 5w-50 behaves like a 50, while a sae 30 behaves well... like a 30.
synthetic 5W-50 emulate the flow characteristics of a 30 while offering better cold flow performance? I'm basing this off of my understanding that conventional 20W-50 and 30 have very similar specs such as pour point and flash point. Thoughts?
No. Pour point and flash point ard two extremes which are not paricularly useful in predicting oil characteristics at normal operating temp.
At operating temp a 5w-50 behaves like a 50, while a sae 30 behaves well... like a 30.
All of which begs the question.
Why not use Mobil 1 High Mileage 10w30 or Mobil 1 0W-40 for the same cost per quart?
Either of these oils have HTHS of at least 3.5.
Rotella 5W-40 used to be the cheapest synthetic on the shelf at Walmart, but that was a dozen years ago.
If you want to use a value priced HDEO in a moderate climate, a 15w40 or one of the syn blend 10w30s would seem to be a good choice.
Why not use Mobil 1 High Mileage 10w30 or Mobil 1 0W-40 for the same cost per quart?
Either of these oils have HTHS of at least 3.5.
Rotella 5W-40 used to be the cheapest synthetic on the shelf at Walmart, but that was a dozen years ago.
If you want to use a value priced HDEO in a moderate climate, a 15w40 or one of the syn blend 10w30s would seem to be a good choice.
Aquarius: Have you tried your local Napa? It's the only place I've seen the 5W-50 Edge in quite some time.
All others: Honestly I just like thicker oil. A 10w30, 0W-40, 5W-40, or 15w40 would be just fine, but I've had good luck with 20W-50, especially in OPEs. I've been intrigued with synthetic 50's for quite some time, so I finally caved and bought some to try out in an OPE next mowing season. As far as my understanding on 30 vs 20W-50, I've based that on the pour point and flash points of both grades (which you've said doesn't necessarily relate to flow characteristics) and oil pressure readings. My oil pressures are virtually identical with the exception that 30 seems to give a more consistent reading. So, as far as why I choose what I do and why, I simply think it works best for my situation, and I'm decidedly old school when it comes to oil.
All others: Honestly I just like thicker oil. A 10w30, 0W-40, 5W-40, or 15w40 would be just fine, but I've had good luck with 20W-50, especially in OPEs. I've been intrigued with synthetic 50's for quite some time, so I finally caved and bought some to try out in an OPE next mowing season. As far as my understanding on 30 vs 20W-50, I've based that on the pour point and flash points of both grades (which you've said doesn't necessarily relate to flow characteristics) and oil pressure readings. My oil pressures are virtually identical with the exception that 30 seems to give a more consistent reading. So, as far as why I choose what I do and why, I simply think it works best for my situation, and I'm decidedly old school when it comes to oil.
When I lived in the Ozarks, the 5w50 was very useful to me but the 5W50 Motorcraft worked better for me than the changing formula of Castrol. But I have to say so far I am very impressed with the 5w30 Quaker State Ultimate Durability.
What do you mean by "changing formula"? Like SL to SN?
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Originally Posted By: Red91
What do you mean by "changing formula"? Like SL to SN?
Only thing I know is that it's no longer labeled as "Classic car formula" on the label and it now contains titanium (it used to have a good dose on moly,not sure if it still does).
What do you mean by "changing formula"? Like SL to SN?
Only thing I know is that it's no longer labeled as "Classic car formula" on the label and it now contains titanium (it used to have a good dose on moly,not sure if it still does).
Zinc is still mentioned on the back label, whereas it isn't on the Euro 0W-40 nor the ILSAC grades. I haven't looked up a PDS on it so I can't comment on the actual levels.
The only comment I'd have about 5w-50 is that it might not be terribly cost effective given packaging size. Similarly, one could buy GC 0w30 for it, but in both instances, you'd likely be buying a quart at a time at a rather high price.
I can get it several times a year for $5.29 a quart at Napa when it's on sale. Like I said, I'm going to try some out in OPE and see how it does. Honestly though, it's going to be hard for me to break away from 30 and 20W-50. In the mean times I've got some WTB ads up for more green Kendall.
Well, that's certainly not a bad price per quart. It might be thicker than optimal, but I can't see it being any real problem. You'll lose fuel economy, but not even to the point you can measure it anyhow. If I were set on a thick Castrol, I'd also consider GC 0w30 and 0w-40, both of which should be a bit more shear stable, not to mention technical synthetics, if that matters.
I almost commented the other day until I saw the "four years" thing. Really? You're worried about that?
Not worried a bit, just food for thought. Garak I have pondered the 0W-40.
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