Yeah, you're right, now that I think about it. It's smack dab between 6.9 and 9.3, whereas there are several that are closer to 9.3.Seems a bit thin at 8.12 vis. M1EP about 8.6, M1AFE about 8.8. I prefer a thicker 20w. Jmo
I think Redline is a 9.0. Have names of other thicker 0w-20 oils?Yeah, you're right, now that I think about it. It's smack dab between 6.9 and 9.3, whereas there are several that are closer to 9.3.
I think Redline is a 9.0. Have names of other thicker 0w-20 oils?
Mobil 1 EP HM: 8.56
Amsoil OE Full Synth: 8.52
Kendall GT1 Max Full Synth: 8.46
Mobil 1 EP: 8.45
Thank you so much! I saw you spread sheet after I posted.Mobil 1 EP HM: 8.56
Amsoil OE Full Synth: 8.52
Kendall GT1 Max Full Synth: 8.46
Mobil 1 EP: 8.45
Thanks for the info. FWIW I have run the EP at 8.56 and the AFE at 8.8 in my 17 Camry 2.4. Of the two, my Camry "likes" the AFE. I also ran 5w-20 EP at 9.0 last winter and it seemed to thick to me. I have Pennzoil Ultra 0w-20 in my stash, and, looking at all these #, I think the Ultra in 5w-20 at 8.8 may be "just right". I'll let you guys know how each "feels" in my car when I run and compare them.Mobil 1 AFE: 8.8
CITGO: 8.8
Valvoline Modern Engine: 8.8
Castrol HM: 8.7
Royal Purple: 8.6
When engines are known to shear oil, it is helpful to start out at a higher viscosity within that grade. As Blinker mentioned, a 5W30 that starts out at cSt 9.8 may not be the best choice in an engine that is known to shear oil, as it doesn't take much for it to get down below 9.3. If that same engine used an oil that started at 11.6, it's much more likely to stay in grade throughout the entire OCI.It's been awhile since I've been on the board, yet some of you guys still make me scratch my head. There are ranges for every spec, and I'm confused why some of you still think thicker is better. You're even worried about the wrong things IMO, I'd be more interested in HTHS than viscosity; just because an oil is thicker does NOT mean it will provide better protection. Even in harsh conditions, we don't see "oil-related failures" of engines. We see poor maintenance habits and failure to follow manufacturer's guidelines. When used as directed, I would love for you "thickies" to show us just one engine failure that was directly related to the oil and not a manufacturing defect or bad ownership.
I've run the $13 5QT synthetic from Rural King and gotten essentially identical UOA results as any more expensive oil- partly because UOA is not the correct tool to assess engine wear, and partly because the oil met the specs needed. If a name-brand oil that meets the mfr specs is used and changed on time, the vehicle will be sold or rust away long before an oil choice makes a difference.
Agreed! Also a nice shot of boron to boot!Moly, titanium, and zinc. Looks like a good solid add pack!![]()
Here’s the current BMW LL-17FE+ VOA. These oils appear to be exactly the same. Some minor manufacturing trace contaminants Aluminum, Iron, and TinThis is a good-looking oil. Good viscosity for a 0W20, decent TBN and not overly conservative on the Phosphorus and Zinc.
This is a good-looking oil. Good viscosity for a 0W20, decent TBN and not overly conservative on the Phosphorus and Zinc.
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