bobbyinfl if you were in Melbourne Oz you'd probably put 20W50 in it. Remember CAFE in the US mandates thinner oils, everywhere else protection/longevity rule. As I mentioned last week people in NA seem to spend way to much time worrying about viscosity when in reality you can use just about anything in any engine as I have done myself (5W30 to 25W70 and everything in between in my Mazda). Basestock quality and additive package are more important IMO.
Castrol 20w50?
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I have been suspect of the recent push by automakers and oil companies in regards to the lower viscosities. The additives and improved engine technology allow use of these oils and gain the automakers small % increases in MPG to satisfy gov't requirements. I still think a quality 20w50 will afford greater protection with the increased temps in modern motors.
After reading all the info on this board I am still confused some, but am thinking for my new Silverado SS:
- Havoline 10w30 Synthetic (2.98 at Discount Auto)
- Pure one filter
- 1st OC at 800-1000 then every 4-5K
This is based on what I've learned here and trying to conform to the General's oil recommendations and my avg miles per year, about 7-8K. Any recommendations or issues that you all can see?
Thanks
- Havoline 10w30 Synthetic (2.98 at Discount Auto)
- Pure one filter
- 1st OC at 800-1000 then every 4-5K
This is based on what I've learned here and trying to conform to the General's oil recommendations and my avg miles per year, about 7-8K. Any recommendations or issues that you all can see?
Thanks
If you're a fan of "thicker" oils, I'd recommend a HDEO 15w-40 over a 20w-50 ANY DAY OF THE WEEK.
Unless you have a severe oil consumption problem, there is absolutely no reason to run a mineral 20w-50 in any modern, liquid cooled, street-driven application.
Or should I say that I can't see much of any benefit of running an oil much thicker than 15.5cSt (in a street application, of course...).
[ December 05, 2003, 11:23 PM: Message edited by: Jelly ]
Unless you have a severe oil consumption problem, there is absolutely no reason to run a mineral 20w-50 in any modern, liquid cooled, street-driven application.
Or should I say that I can't see much of any benefit of running an oil much thicker than 15.5cSt (in a street application, of course...).
[ December 05, 2003, 11:23 PM: Message edited by: Jelly ]
Jelly, I agree with you 100%. 20W-50 is for a serious oil burner or racing. Also something like an old Jaguar or other "classic" cars that have very loose clearances.
On my previous post on this thread I was not trying to say that I did not like Castrol. I think they make good products for the most part. I just think that 20W-50 is far too thick for most vehicles on the road today.
[ December 06, 2003, 10:50 AM: Message edited by: Sin City ]
On my previous post on this thread I was not trying to say that I did not like Castrol. I think they make good products for the most part. I just think that 20W-50 is far too thick for most vehicles on the road today.
[ December 06, 2003, 10:50 AM: Message edited by: Sin City ]
10w-30 or 15w-40 if you like it thicker....your 5k intervals are no problem, even with a cheaper type oil.
My choice for a hot climate would be a CI-4 rated 15W-40.
My '03 DOHC 4.6L Ford motor recommends 5W-20...nowhere in the owner's manual is the word required used.
Having said that, I'm currently using M1 5W-30 and I get approx. 100 lbs of pressure on a cold start. Having just put some 15W-40 Rotella in my company's emergency generator, I could see how thick it was; it poured like honey...I can't image what kind of flow/pressure problems it would create if I tried that heavy of an oil in my car...
Having said that, I'm currently using M1 5W-30 and I get approx. 100 lbs of pressure on a cold start. Having just put some 15W-40 Rotella in my company's emergency generator, I could see how thick it was; it poured like honey...I can't image what kind of flow/pressure problems it would create if I tried that heavy of an oil in my car...
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