Carbon cleaning with water...
- Thread starter svaric2
- Start date
- Status
Originally Posted By: uunfews
Originally Posted By: BuickGN
Before I went to straight methanol injection I used water first and moved on to a mix of rubbing alky and water. I tore the engine down at 30,000 miles of running 10.80s back then due to other issues.
Are you saying to use methanol first follow up with water afterward? What is rubbing alky? What is the ratio or alky to water? I just want to know the exact methodology.
Pistons, heads, headers, turbine side of the turbo all looked brand new. No carbon at all in the exhaust or turbo. The tops of the pistons had a very slight tan color but absolutely no buildup.
Every once in a while I will run water and do a couple easy runs just for cleaning. This is easy since it's only injected at heavy throttle and there's nearly 900CFM of air to make sure the water doesn't puddle. I would really like to do it on the TL but I'm a bit nervous.
I would do straight water for cleaning. My only point was that after a while I was only using 30% water and it still cleaned great. Haven't torn it down since the methanol but I don't expect the same results. The turbine wheel in the turbo has carbon on it.
Originally Posted By: BuickGN
Before I went to straight methanol injection I used water first and moved on to a mix of rubbing alky and water. I tore the engine down at 30,000 miles of running 10.80s back then due to other issues.
Are you saying to use methanol first follow up with water afterward? What is rubbing alky? What is the ratio or alky to water? I just want to know the exact methodology.
Pistons, heads, headers, turbine side of the turbo all looked brand new. No carbon at all in the exhaust or turbo. The tops of the pistons had a very slight tan color but absolutely no buildup.
Every once in a while I will run water and do a couple easy runs just for cleaning. This is easy since it's only injected at heavy throttle and there's nearly 900CFM of air to make sure the water doesn't puddle. I would really like to do it on the TL but I'm a bit nervous.
I would do straight water for cleaning. My only point was that after a while I was only using 30% water and it still cleaned great. Haven't torn it down since the methanol but I don't expect the same results. The turbine wheel in the turbo has carbon on it.
Alright, I just boiled a gallon of water and let the engine suck it up through the pcv. At first I was scared to dip the whole hose in the water, but 3/4 through the gallon I saw that it was taking it fine (a friend was inside keeping it at around 1700), and I submerged hose in the boiling water...
Then my engine made a loud thump and crack and died, after which smoke pillowed out of the engine bay!!!
Just kidding.
I finished up the gallon and put the hood down and drove it for 5 or 6 blocks, flogging it and taking it to redline twice. But when I got back to my driveway, the idle wasn't exactly smooth, it was somewhat shuddering. My scanguage showed multiple cylinder misfire, (which I expected).
Did I do it right?
Ill just wait till it cools down and take a plug out to have a look-see.
Then my engine made a loud thump and crack and died, after which smoke pillowed out of the engine bay!!!
Just kidding.
I finished up the gallon and put the hood down and drove it for 5 or 6 blocks, flogging it and taking it to redline twice. But when I got back to my driveway, the idle wasn't exactly smooth, it was somewhat shuddering. My scanguage showed multiple cylinder misfire, (which I expected).
Did I do it right?
Ill just wait till it cools down and take a plug out to have a look-see.
Last edited:
I just had a look see through a plug hole, the piston's top doesn't look like pure black anymore, its more like an uneven spread of brown and tan and a few splotches of black. Hmmm... maybe I'll do another gallon sometime.
But I think that I should've driven for at least 15 or 20 minutes to evaporate the water from the oil. I checked my dipstick and the oil's not clear-brown like before, its like coffee now, cloudy and everything. The oil is also at a high level, before it was at halfway on the dipstick, now almost at full.
Yikes.
But I think that I should've driven for at least 15 or 20 minutes to evaporate the water from the oil. I checked my dipstick and the oil's not clear-brown like before, its like coffee now, cloudy and everything. The oil is also at a high level, before it was at halfway on the dipstick, now almost at full.
Yikes.
Last edited:
Yes, you should flog it hard to shake loose and burn up the carbon, and get the oil hot enough to evaporate any water blowby that occurs. I took mine out for about 20 minutes and ran it hard the whole time. The oil level didn't seem to have gone up, so if there was any water that made it into the crankcase it didn't stay very long.
You should also reset your ECU after you have completed the cleaning so it can re-learn. It won't be used to being able to use more advance without detonation.
Running a bottle of something containing polyetheramine after it has been cleaned is also a good idea. PEA supposedly coats your combustion chamber and valves and slows the building up of carbon. Gumout Regane, Redline SI-1, Chevron Techron Concentrate, Amsoil PI, etc.
You should also reset your ECU after you have completed the cleaning so it can re-learn. It won't be used to being able to use more advance without detonation.
Running a bottle of something containing polyetheramine after it has been cleaned is also a good idea. PEA supposedly coats your combustion chamber and valves and slows the building up of carbon. Gumout Regane, Redline SI-1, Chevron Techron Concentrate, Amsoil PI, etc.
Originally Posted By: svaric2
I just had a look see through a plug hole, the piston's top doesn't look like pure black anymore, its more like an uneven spread of brown and tan and a few splotches of black. Hmmm... maybe I'll do another gallon sometime.
But I think that I should've driven for at least 15 or 20 minutes to evaporate the water from the oil. I checked my dipstick and the oil's not clear-brown like before, its like coffee now, cloudy and everything. The oil is also at a high level, before it was at halfway on the dipstick, now almost at full.
Yikes.
Drain the oil now and hope you didn't hurt anything too bad. I'm surprised you didn't hydrolock the engine with the PCV line immersed in a GALLON of water. To keep mine clean it took a few ounces at WOT here and there, not a gallon sucked in at 1,700rpm.
I just had a look see through a plug hole, the piston's top doesn't look like pure black anymore, its more like an uneven spread of brown and tan and a few splotches of black. Hmmm... maybe I'll do another gallon sometime.
But I think that I should've driven for at least 15 or 20 minutes to evaporate the water from the oil. I checked my dipstick and the oil's not clear-brown like before, its like coffee now, cloudy and everything. The oil is also at a high level, before it was at halfway on the dipstick, now almost at full.
Yikes.
Drain the oil now and hope you didn't hurt anything too bad. I'm surprised you didn't hydrolock the engine with the PCV line immersed in a GALLON of water. To keep mine clean it took a few ounces at WOT here and there, not a gallon sucked in at 1,700rpm.
Originally Posted By: BuickGN
Originally Posted By: svaric2
I just had a look see through a plug hole, the piston's top doesn't look like pure black anymore, its more like an uneven spread of brown and tan and a few splotches of black. Hmmm... maybe I'll do another gallon sometime.
But I think that I should've driven for at least 15 or 20 minutes to evaporate the water from the oil. I checked my dipstick and the oil's not clear-brown like before, its like coffee now, cloudy and everything. The oil is also at a high level, before it was at halfway on the dipstick, now almost at full.
Yikes.
Drain the oil now and hope you didn't hurt anything too bad. I'm surprised you didn't hydrolock the engine with the PCV line immersed in a GALLON of water. To keep mine clean it took a few ounces at WOT here and there, not a gallon sucked in at 1,700rpm.
I'm surprised too.
But she took nice and well. Though it didn't suck in the gallon that fast, really. It took about 2 minutes to suck up the ~.5 gallons left when I submerged the hose. I listened carfully to the engine and it didn't sound bad at all doing it. But I dunno.
Originally Posted By: svaric2
I just had a look see through a plug hole, the piston's top doesn't look like pure black anymore, its more like an uneven spread of brown and tan and a few splotches of black. Hmmm... maybe I'll do another gallon sometime.
But I think that I should've driven for at least 15 or 20 minutes to evaporate the water from the oil. I checked my dipstick and the oil's not clear-brown like before, its like coffee now, cloudy and everything. The oil is also at a high level, before it was at halfway on the dipstick, now almost at full.
Yikes.
Drain the oil now and hope you didn't hurt anything too bad. I'm surprised you didn't hydrolock the engine with the PCV line immersed in a GALLON of water. To keep mine clean it took a few ounces at WOT here and there, not a gallon sucked in at 1,700rpm.
I'm surprised too.
But she took nice and well. Though it didn't suck in the gallon that fast, really. It took about 2 minutes to suck up the ~.5 gallons left when I submerged the hose. I listened carfully to the engine and it didn't sound bad at all doing it. But I dunno.
god it's not seafoam, i'd never use a hose w/ water that's too risky
i think the safest way is with a hand spray bottle delivered right to the open throttle body and revving by hand. you will get a cleaning effect with even a quart of water this way. and even this small amount causes my engine to gag a little, just have to open more throttle
i'd use distilled water or reverse osmosis water and leave the bottle in the sun for 30 min
i think the safest way is with a hand spray bottle delivered right to the open throttle body and revving by hand. you will get a cleaning effect with even a quart of water this way. and even this small amount causes my engine to gag a little, just have to open more throttle
i'd use distilled water or reverse osmosis water and leave the bottle in the sun for 30 min
Last edited:
How is using a hose with water any more risky than using a hose with Seafoam?
at least seafoam is combustible
Update- So anyway, I didn't change my oil.
But it seems to run like its normal self, scanguage is showing me the same consumption at idle (which is what I always go by) btw it's about .37 gallons per hour. She seems to be completely fine.
But ummmmm.... yeah... I checked the oil cap and saw mucus-like grease under it. Very light in color, like a light shade of green. It's opaque.
I'm guessing I ruined a perfectly good $24 dollar gallon of Mobil One 0w-30.
Didn't even put 500 miles on it.
LESSON TO BE LEARNED: Always do the water cleansing before the end of your OCI so you don't ruin a fresh batch of oil.
But it seems to run like its normal self, scanguage is showing me the same consumption at idle (which is what I always go by) btw it's about .37 gallons per hour. She seems to be completely fine.
But ummmmm.... yeah... I checked the oil cap and saw mucus-like grease under it. Very light in color, like a light shade of green. It's opaque.
I'm guessing I ruined a perfectly good $24 dollar gallon of Mobil One 0w-30.
LESSON TO BE LEARNED: Always do the water cleansing before the end of your OCI so you don't ruin a fresh batch of oil.
Originally Posted By: svaric2
Update- So anyway, I didn't change my oil.
But it seems to run like its normal self, scanguage is showing me the same consumption at idle (which is what I always go by) btw it's about .37 gallons per hour. She seems to be completely fine.
But ummmmm.... yeah... I checked the oil cap and saw mucus-like grease under it. Very light in color, like a light shade of green. It's opaque.
I'm guessing I ruined a perfectly good $24 dollar gallon of Mobil One 0w-30.
Didn't even put 500 miles on it.
LESSON TO BE LEARNED: Always do the water cleansing before the end of your OCI so you don't ruin a fresh batch of oil.
The other lesson you're about to learn is to change your oil immediately after getting it full of water.
Update- So anyway, I didn't change my oil.
But it seems to run like its normal self, scanguage is showing me the same consumption at idle (which is what I always go by) btw it's about .37 gallons per hour. She seems to be completely fine.
But ummmmm.... yeah... I checked the oil cap and saw mucus-like grease under it. Very light in color, like a light shade of green. It's opaque.
I'm guessing I ruined a perfectly good $24 dollar gallon of Mobil One 0w-30.
LESSON TO BE LEARNED: Always do the water cleansing before the end of your OCI so you don't ruin a fresh batch of oil.
The other lesson you're about to learn is to change your oil immediately after getting it full of water.
Originally Posted By: BuickGN
Originally Posted By: svaric2
Update- So anyway, I didn't change my oil.
But it seems to run like its normal self, scanguage is showing me the same consumption at idle (which is what I always go by) btw it's about .37 gallons per hour. She seems to be completely fine.
But ummmmm.... yeah... I checked the oil cap and saw mucus-like grease under it. Very light in color, like a light shade of green. It's opaque.
I'm guessing I ruined a perfectly good $24 dollar gallon of Mobil One 0w-30.
Didn't even put 500 miles on it.
LESSON TO BE LEARNED: Always do the water cleansing before the end of your OCI so you don't ruin a fresh batch of oil.
The other lesson you're about to learn is to change your oil immediately after getting it full of water.
I love the ominous tone.
But is it really that bad, she's running as good as ever. Come on.
Or is there something I don't know about watered oil?
Originally Posted By: svaric2
Update- So anyway, I didn't change my oil.
But it seems to run like its normal self, scanguage is showing me the same consumption at idle (which is what I always go by) btw it's about .37 gallons per hour. She seems to be completely fine.
But ummmmm.... yeah... I checked the oil cap and saw mucus-like grease under it. Very light in color, like a light shade of green. It's opaque.
I'm guessing I ruined a perfectly good $24 dollar gallon of Mobil One 0w-30.
LESSON TO BE LEARNED: Always do the water cleansing before the end of your OCI so you don't ruin a fresh batch of oil.
The other lesson you're about to learn is to change your oil immediately after getting it full of water.
But is it really that bad, she's running as good as ever. Come on.
Or is there something I don't know about watered oil?
Originally Posted By: svaric2
BuickGN said:svaric2 said:Update- So anyway,
Or is there something I don't know about watered oil?
There could be something you don't want to know about watered oilI'd change it, sounds like if its running well you scored! Change that oil and seal the deal!
JMO
Frank D
Originally Posted By: [RT
ProjUltraZ]at least seafoam is combustible
How does that make it any safer than water?
ProjUltraZ]at least seafoam is combustible
How does that make it any safer than water?
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2002
- Messages
- 39,799
Sissy!!!
Probably should get that Mayonnaise out of your engine.
It's been almost a week... I still didn't change my oil. She's still running exactly the same, in perfect order. The oil is almost back to its original condition, clear light brown, but it still has a slight tinge of green.
I'm not worried though, I think the water is gradually evaporating and everything is going back to normal.
So... ha!
I'm not worried though, I think the water is gradually evaporating and everything is going back to normal.
So... ha!
Last edited:
- Status
