Caravan Brake Dilemma-help please

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I have an '05 (really '04) short wheelbase Caravan with TRW front calipers. The bottom caliper pin has a 3/4" long rubber sleeve at the end opposite the bolt head. This pin was seized at the first brake job and I replaced the pins as a cure. When I did the second brake job, the pin was almost seized again, so in went a new one.

Tonight I was investigating a brake chirping noise and thought I would clean up and re-lube the pins to help get through the last 1/3 life of the pads.

I cannot get the bottom pin back in because that darn rubber sleeve seems to be swelled and it slides out of it;s groove and binds up.

There has to be an answer to this poor design. Is my grease (Permatex green synthetic) swelling it? These are aftermarket Raybestos brand pins.

Please HELP with what shouldn't be so difficult.
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This is a common problem... What my dad does is pulls the pins out and the rubber pieces cleans everything up and then sprays everything with a very good penetrating fluid (not WD40) and then uses wheel bearing grease (Because it's good for high heat). Then sprays some more penetrating fluid. The more the better of both the grease and the fluid...

This usually keeps them loose between brake jobs.

If the pins have any buildup of rust etc on them make sure you clean them up with a wire side of a bench grinder.

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Thank you StevieC

The pins and the caliper bore they slide into are clean enough to eat off off. There is no rust or hardened grease. Spotless. The old grease was still in good condition when I removed them.

The top pin has always slid like butter. No problems there.

The bottom pin with rubber sleeve is just too tight. It came out hard and now the rubber slides out of the groove when trying to reinsert because it seems swelled. It WILL NOT go in.

I am afraid of your penetrating oil idea since how do I know if it might swell the rubber more? Also, my "net" education taught me to never use petroleum grease on brake parts.

I'm confused....again.

Edit....the factory service manual says to use Sytheso GLK-1 lubricant or equivalent. What the heck is this stuff??
 
I talked with my dad and he says what I told you is what he does... The only thing I forgot to mention was when you take the rubber pieces off to clean the holes in the calipers where the pins slide in/out of. They have to be absolutely rust free.

Then soak everything in lubricating fluid and a general portion of wheel-bearing grease.

I have seen him do it a million times and this has been a common problem with Chyrco vehicles for a while now.

I have the same problem on my Hyundai Santa Fe which has 4 wheel Disc brakes and the same pin/rubber boot style setup. One servicing from my paps and I haven't had the issue again and have goen 75K on these brakes now.

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Steve
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KisZ, It happens on both sides, but the drivers side has always been a bit worse.

Did you guys see my concurrent thread in the grease section about a apecial german grease they recommend in the service manual?

I find it hard to believe I need this, but the other guys are complaining in the current brake grease thread of swollen rubber using CRS? grease and that they require special grease.

Stevie, do you know what the lubricating fluid is?

Something so simple is giving me headaches.
 
My dad uses generic no-name brand high heat wheel bearing grease. and the lubricating fluid I meant to say Pentrating fluid. He uses the red-can of Rust-Check. I don't think you can get that state-side so use anything but WD-40.

Trust me it will work out just fine if you soak everything in pentrating fluid and grease...

He also cleans up the lips that the brake pads slide on with a file, and then greases those too.

I'm telling you, only smooth well operating brakes when he is done with your car.
 
I have used wheel bearing grease on brakes for years[along with other stuff].
But I am leaning away from it, as it is causing problems with swelling and subsequent sticking [rubber parts].
I now believe that dedicated brake grease is best.
A bottle/can will last a civilian a lifetime, for $11 or so.
 
I guess with the changing parts... I haven't seen this being a problem though. Maybe my WB grease isn't problematic.
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Good to know though...
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