Car wont start

[JakeR22]

'01 Civic. 210k miles.

Tried to start the car; the dash and interior lights come on, but when I turn the key, there's a "click" and everything shuts off.

The battery was about 3.5 years old, so I just figured the battery was dead.

Installed a new battery, and it does the same thing.

After turning the key, click, everything shuts off, and stays off for a few minutes, nothing. After a few minutes I try the key, and it does the same thing.

What do you guys think? Starter? Is there anything else I should check?

 

[HTSS_TR]

I think it's the starter.

 

[Sayjac]

Did you have the charging system checked when you changed the battery? I know it's a new battery, but I'd check the alternator first. If not that, then starter. JMO.

 

[JakeR22]

Originally Posted By: sayjac
Did you have the charging system checked when you changed the battery? I know it's a new battery, but I'd check the alternator first. If not that, then starter. JMO.


What would be checked? Just the alternator?

Last time I drove it, it drove fine. I would think if the volts were droping some sort of check engine light would of came on, but I'm not sure.

 

[Sayjac]

Originally Posted By: JakeR22
What would be checked? Just the alternator?

Last time I drove it, it drove fine. I would think if the volts were droping some sort of check engine light would of came on, but I'm not sure.
Yeah, the alternator and perhaps you would have gotten a light. I does sound more like the starter, but before it's replaced, it couldn't hurt to check the alternator.

My daughter has the same year and model with 136k, so I'm interested in what you find out.

 

[eljefino]

If everything shuts off you have a bad main connection that's arcing. Battery cable, ground, main starter lug. Once it arcs it burns a high resistance spot that shuts off power.

If the dome light etc comes back, no matter how weak, after a start attempt your connections are good but battery shot.

 

[javacontour]

Is it a stick or automatic. If a stick, why not try push starting it to see if it starts that way.

If it does, you are likely looking at something in the starting circuit, such as the starter, solenoid, switch, relays, etc.

 

[Billbert]

Originally Posted By: eljefino
If everything shuts off you have a bad main connection that's arcing. Battery cable, ground, main starter lug. Once it arcs it burns a high resistance spot that shuts off power.

If the dome light etc comes back, no matter how weak, after a start attempt your connections are good but battery shot.

+1 hit it right on the head

 

[Herz]

Originally Posted By: javacontour
Is it a stick or automatic. If a stick, why not try push starting it to see if it starts that way.

If it does, you are likely looking at something in the starting circuit, such as the starter, solenoid, switch, relays, etc.


+1


give it a good push and put it in second

 

[tig1]

Starter.

 

[demarpaint]

Make sure all connections and cables are tight, especially the ones going to the starter. Not exactly a fool proof way of checking but its gotten me home once or twice over the years. If everything is corrosion free, clean and tight, and you know the battery is good try this. Next time it doesn't start if you can safely get under the car to the starter, give it a few good shots with a hammer. If the car starts the starter is hanging up.

 

[JakeR22]

Originally Posted By: Billbert
Originally Posted By: eljefino
If everything shuts off you have a bad main connection that's arcing. Battery cable, ground, main starter lug. Once it arcs it burns a high resistance spot that shuts off power.

If the dome light etc comes back, no matter how weak, after a start attempt your connections are good but battery shot.

+1 hit it right on the head


Yep, it was the positive battery cable.

Awhile back the terminal end totally corroded. I planned to replace it, but it's more complex then I thought it would be. There are two parts to it, one part goes to the fuse box, the other to the starter, and I believe there was another wire coming out of it. All of which is tightly wound and wrapped together. So instead of replacing it, I just replaced the end, with one of those bolt on deals.

Well, the end was really corroded again, and infused with that powder blue corrosion. So I took the end off, cleaned the ends and terminal, and the car now starts.

I guess I'll try to find a better end, something that solders on maybe?

Or I could try the dealer for a whole positive cable.

 

[PT1]

Get a new cable. Better than walking in the Winter cold.

 

[mechtech2]

Of course the lights go dim or off when you start the car and it fails to turn over. There is a massive current draw.

First, do yourself a favor and clean BOTH ends of all cables, and where they contact. Nice and shiny. No matter what, this is good and smart. [Body grounds, too.] It won't take long, and will last for years.
This probably is the starter, but get the cables right first.

Also, charge that new battery if you can, with a trickle charger. It is the best thing you can do for a new battery.

 

[eljefino]

With those clamp on deals you often get corrosion that snakes down the insulation of the cables.. real insidious. Then if you later clean the 3/4" of cable you unwrapped you get a false impression all is well.

IOW, get the new cable, from dealer or elsewhere. It'll have a real good termination of the insulation.

 

[Herz]

toss a penny on it, helped when I used the bolt on replacements on my Jeep, had to clean it too often so I threw a penny on it and it stopped the rust.

 

[JakeR22]

Originally Posted By: defektes
toss a penny on it, helped when I used the bolt on replacements on my Jeep, had to clean it too often so I threw a penny on it and it stopped the rust.


Where did you put the penny?

 

[andyd]

I have used these clamps before . I grease them with chassis grease. Quick and dirty

 

[JakeR22]

Originally Posted By: andyd
I have used these clamps before . I grease them with chassis grease. Quick and dirty


I spayed some lithium grease on it.

I looked at the cable again, and it's a lot more complex then a simple power cable to the starter.

The cable starts as two cables, one side goes the the fues box, and splits into two more. The other side goes to the starter, but between the battery and the starter, there are 4 more splices coming out of it.

I don't even see it listed on at my normal online honda store.

 

[mechtech2]

The penny go on top of the battery - near the terminals. Corrosion will collect there. And you replace them as necessary.
Oldest trick in the book!
And I agree that replacement bolt on cable ends are emergency use only. Get a cable premade if you need one, and bigger [diameter] is better. Get copper, not aluminum.