Car overheated on highway...change oil to be safe?

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My father was driving the Dodge Ram out to the lake when it started overheating. Engine temp light came on and I told him to pull over and blast the heat. He did so and the temps dropped back down and after waiting a bit he drove about 20km with the temp still way above operating temp but below the point of the engine temp light coming on.

Stopped at a Partsource and picked up a Motorad thermostat, any good? Had no other choice.

Headed out to the lake and replaced the thermostat and everything is perfect now.

The oil which was in there was Formula Shell 5w30 Synthetic Blend and I added a quart of Amsoil 5w30 ASL after the overheating incident. It was at the add mark on the dipstick but I am unsure if it was due to normal consumption or because of the overheating. The original oil only has about 3000km on it. Should I change out the oil to be on the safe side?
 
if you're driving up a mountain, the oil will get much hotter than the coolant anyways, so I don't think this incident will make any difference in the life of the oil.
 
Originally Posted By: byez
My father was driving the Dodge Ram out to the lake when it started overheating. Engine temp light came on and I told him to pull over and blast the heat.

I believe those warning lights don't come on until coolant temps hit about 260 degrees F., therefore the engine got plenty hot.

Don't be penny wise and a pound foolish, change the oil.
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If it didn't get hot enough to smoke, I wouldn't worry about it. You can also smell the dipstick and see if it smells burnt. Incidentally, idiot lights are supposed to come on at 245 Deg. F.
 
Originally Posted By: daman
CHange it out and run a good full syn. oil, so if it happens again you'll be better protected..
How will syn oil protect your engine when the thermost sticks closed?
 
Originally Posted By: Steve S
Originally Posted By: daman
CHange it out and run a good full syn. oil, so if it happens again you'll be better protected..
How will syn oil protect your engine when the thermost sticks closed?


Syn oil will take higher temps before it loses it's ability to lubricate. In an overheating situation that small margin of difference may be what keeps your engine from getting toasted.
 
Originally Posted By: PT1

Syn oil will take higher temps before it loses it's ability to lubricate. In an overheating situation that small margin of difference may be what keeps your engine from getting toasted.

^^^Exactly,,,,every little bit helps..
 
Originally Posted By: Saab9-3
Get a thermostat that fails open next time. It sounds like yours failed, but in the closed position.


If the new Motorad thermostat was a "Fail Safe" then that's what he got. Motorads are good.
 
Originally Posted By: Blokey
Originally Posted By: Saab9-3
Get a thermostat that fails open next time. It sounds like yours failed, but in the closed position.


If the new Motorad thermostat was a "Fail Safe" then that's what he got. Motorads are good.

Thats wierd. I bought one of those for my dads f150 truck when I was doing the heads on it, and I was told afterwards at several places that they were bad. I returned it and got a Motorcraft.
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The OEM Ford T-stats are very good quality, the one in my Mustang was original, and I replaced it with a 180 only due to performance reasons, as it still functioned perfectly........

Many times the OEM parts are of superior quality to aftermarket ones.
 
Originally Posted By: Saab9-3
Get a thermostat that fails open next time. It sounds like yours failed, but in the closed position.
There is no such thing. A Stat can fail in any position. They are spring loaded and the spring automatically pushes it closed and when cool the wax pushes it open when hot.

You can get a stat with a catch to hold it open if the engine gets hot enough to push the stat past it's range of regular travel. But it can still fail closed.

It depends on if the stat failed cold or hot as to weather it's open or closed.
 
I think he is referring to the Motorad Fail-Safe:
"Unlike standard thermostats, the Motorad Fail-Safe® thermostat, is built with an extra stroke that automatically locks into an open position when an overheating condition occurs. This allows the coolant to continue to flow between the radiator and engine, thereby protecting the engine components from serious damage while the vehicle is safely driven to the nearest service centre.

Anyways, I bought the non-fail-safe model. Any recommendations on the replacement interval of the new one? I'm thinking every 100km.
 
Definately change the oil out. XD-3 I hear is reasonable in terms of price and synthetic. It turns in great UOA results when ever one of our Canadian friends posts a run with it on here. The big thing to look out for with over heat is rings coaking up or sticking,warped heads or damaged head gasket. So keep an eye on the coolant level after everything is toped off and burped. I have used a motorrad thermostat before never had a problem though with any brand I have used! On imports I like to use Denso or Nippon but on the domestics I do not think it matters that much. I have been thinking about trying oe of those "Fail Safe" ones that if it fails it fails in the open postion not the closed postion!

I know this is going to be taken lightly but I have seen 100% ester based oils take the heat of an over heat and not even flinch and they protected the engine from any damage. Terry Dyson saw something simalar when his daughters VW Bug(new version not old air cooled one) over heated. He was rather adament that the Lube Control in the oil ws definately what saved that engine. He even experimented with adding a little bit to the coolant. I donot know if he ever updated use about his coolant experiment?

Oh the only reason I recomended a synthetic is because they handle coolant leaks better then dino oils do if one should develop! The higher the group number of the base stock the better they do when coolant hits the oil in terms of protecting the bearing and seperateing the oil and water and not emalsifying etc....
 
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