Car drivin 800 miles every 3 months

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Hello,
I drive my car 800 miles in a 3 month period. I was going to try synthetic and extended it out 5 or 6 months, but from what I've read here, I could do this on conventional with such short mileage that I'm putting on this car. Am I getting just as good of protection running conventional in this car vs syn? I drive it on many short trips and only take it too Chicago once a year, so that is the only time it gets on the highway. I've been using Valvoline.
 
I would personally run a dino oil and change it every 3 months. You are probably getting alot of moisture and fuel contamination in the oil due to the constant short trips.
 
I never had any issues changing my oil at 6 months/3k miles before. Just change it at 6 months. I wouldn't worry too hard, especially since you said it does see one highway trip which should help burnoff excess moisture & fuel. If you're really worried though, you could always get a UOA
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Thanks for the replies....
If I push it out to 6 months...will Valvoline conventional be "fine".
 
I drive mine around 1K per year, mostly 10+ mile trip. I change it onece a year with Havoline dino oil. Last year I didn't even bother to change the filter.
 
Modern SM/GF-4 conventional perform like synthetics for 5K miles in most applications.

At 800 miles/3 months, just use a SM conventional and change every 6 months to a year.

I think even a year is no problem with conventional unless you are "really" short tripping a lot to get to 800 miles/3 months.
 
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Modern SM/GF-4 conventional perform like synthetics for 5K miles in most applications.

At 800 miles/3 months, just use a SM conventional and change every 6 months to a year.

I think even a year is no problem with conventional unless you are "really" short tripping a lot to get to 800 miles/3 months.




Maybe 3 months would be good for this vehicle? Last winter I noticed white gunk around the oil fill cap. It is plastic and water condenses there as it mixes with the oil. NOw I'm not sure if that is a sign as to what is going on insdie the engine...but perhaps a good syn changed every 3-4 months in her car wouild afford her better protection? ??????
Money is not a factor here...so please disregard that issue.
I can get M1 for 19.XX/5 qt jug.. Not too bad. So with that... stick with conventional?
 
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Well if money is no object, get yourself a bypass filter
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Thanks, but that doesn't really answer my question...
Syn every 3-4 months given now harshly it is driven with oil barely ever warming up, or conventional every 3 months?
 
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Quote:


Well if money is no object, get yourself a bypass filter
smile.gif





Thanks, but that doesn't really answer my question...
Syn every 3-4 months given now harshly it is driven with oil barely ever warming up, or conventional every 3 months?




Full syn every 6 months.
 
I'd just run a conventional oil and change it out at six months. Try to change in the dead of winter (January) and at the start of summer (June or so)...

But, I would consider setting some time aside at least once a month to, as an older lady once said to me, "blow the dust out of the carburetor" and drive a good 50 miles or so at, or near, highway speeds...
 
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Last winter I noticed white gunk around the oil fill cap.




What type of oil were you using? Was it SM rated, or some older stuff?

I also wonder if this could be from the particular gasoline you are using. I used to get a little crud on my oil cap on my 87 Jetta in the 1990's (in the winter), but I no longer get it. The only 2 variables that have changed are the move from Group I to Group II base oils, and I changed stations where I fill up with gas. So I'm not sure whether it's the new oils which are more like synthetics (compared to the old Grp I's) or if it is the gasoline.
 
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I would personally run a dino oil and change it every 3 months. You are probably getting alot of moisture and fuel contamination in the oil due to the constant short trips.




Yep! He's right. Your driving habits indicate that oil/water temps are not getting warm enough to burn off condensation. A family member pretty much had the same issues and her engine (5.0 Ford) was gunked-up tremendously with "white goo" (condensation) in the oil fill cap.

She drove 2-3 miles one way to a Train station and then shut down. Reversed later in the day on the ride home. Repeated 5 days a week. I don't think it's the oils "fault" for not protecting a car driven like that. Any oil is going to have issues with that scenario.
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I wouldn't run a non-synthetic no matter what in any engine.




I used to be like you before I got here. My dad told me to never, ever, ever run Quaker State, "It'll sludge up your engine!"...Similiar to the Pennzoil Myth. Sure enough before I got here if you had offered me a Quaker State Full Synthetic 55 gallon drum...I would have told you where to stick it!...Alas, since joining this site I have re-educated myself...slowly...it took time...And yes I have ran Quaker State...as you will run dino...trust me on this one!...---- look at how good Yellow Bottle UOA's are showing...can't beat that with a stick or any high-dollar synthetic...I do however fill the GRP III synthetics are the finest thing your money can buy if one wants to do 5000 mile runs...I have never ran conventional past 3000...but I never say never...I am a BITOGER now...We test, We discuss, We learn, We Know!...
 
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