Car buying strategy question

[peterr]

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Another quick opinion....
If you buy new, buy Japanese, if buy used, by American..

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My advice is ...

If you buy new buy Japanese (company... the car is fine even if designed in California and made in Tennessee).

If you buy slightly used (
If you buy very used (>7 years) buy Japanese. They are not falling apart at that age, and have plenty left.

If you buy very very used buy something German and really fancy. Something that was outrageously expensive to begin with but has obviously been babied. Enjoy.

My biases are pretty clear. I drive an 18 year old Porsche (summer), a 13 year old Mazda (winter) and a 6 month old Mazda (6 month old baby).

Back to the original question. I would not limit my car buying based on one criterion of engine design. You eliminate a lot of really great cars that way. If we added up the list of potential maintenance issues we would rule out every car.

You do want to be cognizant of the issues and particulars of each car. On two relatively expensive used cars with interference engines the first thing i did upon buying was replace the timing belt and water pump as a defensive measure. These were situations where $300 worth of parts and 4 or 5 hours worth of labor were worth the peace of mind.

On some cars the belt tension needs to be monitored and adjusted as necessary so it definitely is a preventative maintenance issue. I hear some people prefer timing chain designs because of this but I think each has its own issues.

 

[Earl Filter]

As I stated in another post, I was the fleet manager for a limo company that used Town Cars for airport pickup/executive transport. We had about 50 of them, give or take. Most of those would go over 200k on timing chains/tensioners, some up to around 250k, and these cars were run hard and idled a LOT.

 

[Cicero17]

"So, why are there so many folks out there buying up the used ones for almost the price of a new one?"

Because everyone knows the conventional wisdom that its more economical to buy used. You could argue till you are blue in the face trying to convince someone to go for a good price on a new car and they will go out and pay almost as much for a used car. I buy new and I hold out for my price. In addition to all other considerations, I know the maintenance history of my cars.

February is a good month to buy a car. Go midweek and catch the dealership and salesman hungry.

One other consideration on buying new, I once came across a dealership that had a car running at idle for hours to keep the battery from dying while the doors were open. So catching the car new on the lot can be nice too, gives the dealership employees less time to abuse it.

Don

 

[CBDFrontier06]

More and more, automakers engage their dealerships in sales promotions that end monthly and quarterly. You'll likely find the best deals near the end of March, June, September and December. I know Trophy Nissan in Mesquite engages in a year-end sales competetion with some dealer in California every year for top U.S. sales honors. Most dealerships also set monthly and quarterly sales goals and if either is not met, they're most 'motivated' near the end of these periods. If I'm interpreting the above statement correctly, buying off the lot is usually better than off the dealer floor, as the poor cars that sit inside the dealership have been fondled, sat in (and scratched) by everyone that's been inside the building - good advice. If a dealership's employees aren't intelligent enough to hook the car to a battery charger instead of idling it all day, you might want to look elsewhere.

 

[Norm Olt]

Any normal idiot can budget a $350 lease payment and 6 months insurance coverage: then they can drive a "new" car every two to three years, ad infinitum...

In 6 years, or so, they'll be driving an Elantra (not bashing, just "for example") vs. a Camry. And 6 years later an Aveo... UNLESS

They are willing to bump that $350 to $450, then $550.

Look at the Road Test section in Road & Track magazine and count the car(s?) with an "as tested" price under $20K.

"They" don't want you to buy a car and drive it for a decade (or two?) : "they" want you to buy a new car and pay taxes, insurance, maintenance, etc. at an increasing rate FOREVER!

Plus your cell phone, ONSTAR and EM or Sirius subscription (+ tax) each month. Plus 4 different DVD's (one for each rear passenger seat) simultaneously... Plus a new improved battery pack for your hybrid "it's SO patriotic!".

Ad Nauseum & ad infinitum!

Cheers!

 

[Earl Filter]

Mine may not be all that nice, but they're MINE!

You know why banks have drive-thru windows? So the cars get to see their real owners once in a while!

People have the idea that car payments are forever. I have the idea that I can buy a car for $3k-6k, pay cash, and drive it for a long time. When adding in the average maintenance over time, I probably spend less than $150 a month per car. That, and I carry liability only insurance for the older two. On top of that, if you buy the car right, you can drive it for a couple of years and sell it for not much less than you paid for it!

 

[gedcruise]

Yeah, you must change the T-belt on a Honda every 100K or so. Gosh, that sure is frequent. And, no, they don't break if changed at the specified mileages.
What are you seeking?
If you want cheap, decide how much room you need, and buy accordingly.
There are many American-nameplate cars that would give good service, and are cheap new or used.
Spend a little more, and you can have a Honda, which would be a real pleasure.
Anyway, what is it you are looking for?
New or used?
Cheap or more costly?
Interference vs non is not a very serious basis upon which to base a car buying decision.