CANT FIND OTC OIL FOR B48 BMW 230I WHAT TO USE INSTEAD

Your car is anything but stock, bud. Gotta use an oil GRADE that suits your conditions.

Engines are designed using CLEARENCES. Le me explain.

Clearance-measurement used in designing engines. It's a set measurement. Not a range.

Tolerance- deviation from a set mean. The deviation your rod bearings and crank bearings will experience if you keep messing around and using that 20 grade. Especially if you're road racing. Rods will leave the chat....see through engine blocks are cool only when manufacturers show them at trade shows.
what viscosity would you recommend looking at there data for euro castrols 0-20 LL-17 vs there 5-40

Viscosity, Kinematic 100C 8.1 vs 13.4
Viscosity, Kinematic 40C 43 vs 81

there 0-30 is 12.3 and 61
5w30 12.1 and 72

Weren't there CLEARENCES design for a 0-20 weight?
 
Please expand on this. What is too aggressive??? Timing, does it upshift too soon causing extra load.....do tell.

I was not aware of German cars having major issues with LSPI. I know BMW colors with Yota. I know Yota colors with Subaru.

What is a scary thought is if BMW got talked into taking tuning tips from Subaru by Toyota.
Eco mode=transmission is too aggressive. It is very rare, but there were some instances of LSPI. Same is with VW EA888. Very rare, but happened.
 
what viscosity would you recommend looking at there data for euro castrols 0-20 LL-17 vs there 5-40

Viscosity, Kinematic 100C 8.1 vs 13.4
Viscosity, Kinematic 40C 43 vs 81

there 0-30 is 12.3 and 61
5w30 12.1 and 72

Weren't there CLEARENCES design for a 0-20 weight?
As noted, the grade is the key. Actually the HT/HS but grade will do.

And as for "clearances design" for a "0-20 weight" (a 20-grade oil irrespective of the winter rating) the answer is no.

 
what viscosity would you recommend looking at there data for euro castrols 0-20 LL-17 vs there 5-40

Viscosity, Kinematic 100C 8.1 vs 13.4
Viscosity, Kinematic 40C 43 vs 81

there 0-30 is 12.3 and 61
5w30 12.1 and 72

Weren't there CLEARENCES design for a 0-20 weight?
Honestly, I'm not too gamiliar with your particular platform, but am with Euro stuff.

What kind of racing you doing??? You mentioned 12.7 quarter, so I'd drag racing, I'd step it up one grade.....if road racing....that's a tough one. I'd put some Mobil 1 0-40 fs in it and monitor oil temperature and pressure very very close.

I use Amsoil myself, however if your pockets are deeper......even though I dislike their fanbois on this site....hit up HPL and let them know how you intend to use the car and they'll make a recommendation.

Road racing is expensive....one of the cheapest investments you can make in road racing is excellent oil and a way to monitor oil Temps and pressure. Hit them up, word is they know their stuff.

Road racing is fun. What is not is oily parts not being oily and hitting atmosphere....then you go mow grass.....and it sucks....then you get mad and toss your helmet, messing it up and.......SORRY, I was having flashbacks.
 
what viscosity would you recommend looking at there data for euro castrols 0-20 LL-17 vs there 5-40

Viscosity, Kinematic 100C 8.1 vs 13.4
Viscosity, Kinematic 40C 43 vs 81

there 0-30 is 12.3 and 61
5w30 12.1 and 72

Weren't there CLEARENCES design for a 0-20 weight?
Designed to allow for 20w not only 20w. It's hard for people to wrap their heads around how an engine can use such a wide range of viscosities.

BMW, like all automakers, are under a lot of pressure with regards to fleet effeciency so they will never suggest a thicker oil which is/was used in other markets. With some automakers the verbiage borders on fear mongering.
 
Honestly, I'm not too gamiliar with your particular platform, but am with Euro stuff.

What kind of racing you doing??? You mentioned 12.7 quarter, so I'd drag racing, I'd step it up one grade.....if road racing....that's a tough one. I'd put some Mobil 1 0-40 fs in it and monitor oil temperature and pressure very very close.

I use Amsoil myself, however if your pockets are deeper......even though I dislike their fanbois on this site....hit up HPL and let them know how you intend to use the car and they'll make a recommendation.

Road racing is expensive....one of the cheapest investments you can make in road racing is excellent oil and a way to monitor oil Temps and pressure. Hit them up, word is they know their stuff.

Road racing is fun. What is not is oily parts not being oily and hitting atmosphere....then you go mow grass.....and it sucks....then you get mad and toss your helmet, messing it up and.......SORRY, I was having flashbacks.
i took it to the drags once just to see what the lil 4 cyl would do i mostly baby it, i use it as a grocery getter get around the town bc of the fuel economy i drive it eco 90% of the time and sprinted the rest. MG flasher lets you can change tunes on the fly so you can leave it stock or stage 2 with different fuel trims on the fly

im a fan of changing frequently vs the 10-20k intervals the weather is changeing to summer here in north east united states, it can hit 100 F i did the oil change last fall with over the counter non euro castrol 0-20. Want to keep the fuel economy so i may just go to a euro 5-30 for the summer then back down to 0-20 for the winter
 
Designed to allow for 20w not only 20w. It's hard for people to wrap their heads around how an engine can use such a wide range of viscosities.

BMW, like all automakers, are under a lot of pressure with regards to fleet effeciency so they will never suggest a thicker oil which is/was used in other markets. With some automakers the verbiage borders on fear mongering.
how bad will fuel economy suffer going from 0-20 to a higher grade like 0-40, 5-40 or 5-30 right now i get 27-28mpg with 80% city driving
 
how bad will fuel economy suffer going from 0-20 to a higher grade like 0-40, 5-40 or 5-30 right now i get 27-28mpg with 80% city driving
Not much probably. I’d just go with ESP 5W-30. I don’t think B46 suffers from any kind of oil adjacent issue like rod bearings in earlier engines. Every teardown I’ve seen on the forums of a B engine with the coated bearings has looked good.
 
how bad will fuel economy suffer going from 0-20 to a higher grade like 0-40, 5-40 or 5-30 right now i get 27-28mpg with 80% city driving
1-2 mpg. It may not matter to the individual owner but for an automaker who sells tens of thousands of cars it adds up.
 
The engine is the same as the inline 6 cylinder B58, except that the B48 is a four cylinder engine. The B58 engine is capable of producing over 1000hp, albeit with a different turbo, fuel injection and cams. The crankshaft is forged, which means it's very stout.

That said, I would run a synthetic oil that meets either "LL01" or LL04" specification. Ignore the weight.
 
i took it to the drags once just to see what the lil 4 cyl would do i mostly baby it, i use it as a grocery getter get around the town bc of the fuel economy i drive it eco 90% of the time and sprinted the rest. MG flasher lets you can change tunes on the fly so you can leave it stock or stage 2 with different fuel trims on the fly

im a fan of changing frequently vs the 10-20k intervals the weather is changeing to summer here in north east united states, it can hit 100 F i did the oil change last fall with over the counter non euro castrol 0-20. Want to keep the fuel economy so i may just go to a euro 5-30 for the summer then back down to 0-20 for the winter
That sounds like a great plan. I would keep the 5-30 in there year round, no need to fuss with changing grades for the winter.

My cars did fine with 5-40 in NH and we had -57 two days in a row. I'm not saying that I recommended it, I just don't think you'll be driving in those conditions.

That's a cool little ride you got bud. Good of you to want to get more info on how to take care of her better.
 
The engine is the same as the inline 6 cylinder B58, except that the B48 is a four cylinder engine. The B58 engine is capable of producing over 1000hp, albeit with a different turbo, fuel injection and cams. The crankshaft is forged, which means it's very stout.

That said, I would run a synthetic oil that meets either "LL01" or LL04" specification. Ignore the weight.
Cut it out.

I don't care if the b48 is a b58 with two cylinders chopped off, this comparison needs to die out.

Just in engine harmonics, there is such a vast difference between the two. That alone would require a different grade.
 
1-2mpg I think is extreme. I'd say up to .5mpg on a bad day.
Actually I've found published range of .9 - 2.2 mpg. Regardless if it weren't significant then automakers wouldn't be going thinner and the oil industry wouldn't have FE bench tests.

The consumer won't notice due to the variability of their operating conditions.
 
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Castrol Edge Euro 0w-20 is LL17-FE+ approved printed on the front of the jug. This is what I’ll be using for now for the 5K, 15K, 25K…oci. The dealer will do the 10k, 20K, 30k…. I purchased via Walmart.com and delivered for like $28.94 plus tax. For some time it showed out of stock so sometimes I had to wait.
 
Cut it out.

I don't care if the b48 is a b58 with two cylinders chopped off, this comparison needs to die out.

Just in engine harmonics, there is such a vast difference between the two. That alone would require a different grade.
Actually, B38/46/48/58 are modular engines. They are purposely developed like that to cut the cost.
There might be certain parts differences, but BMW as other manufacturers is utilizing as many as possible parts to cut the cost. Hence, why inline 6 is again popular engine as manufacturers can make 4&3cyl engines as part of modular family.
 
Actually, B38/46/48/58 are modular engines. They are purposely developed like that to cut the cost.
There might be certain parts differences, but BMW as other manufacturers is utilizing as many as possible parts to cut the cost. Hence, why inline 6 is again popular engine as manufacturers can make 4&3cyl engines as part of modular family.
That I did not know. Thanks for that info. Still, drawing comparisons to a power dense jz and b58/48 and saying that it would require same oil just because it's modular, is silly.
 
1-2 mpg. It may not matter to the individual owner but for an automaker who sells tens of thousands of cars it adds up.
It’s HIGHLY doubtful that one would see anywhere near an impact of 2mpg by moving to a Xw40 vs a Xw20 in any application. I had a handful of OCIs in my old Odyssey on Xw20s over about 20k miles. I then switched to Pennzoil Euro 0w40 for about another 20k miles before I sold it, and saw only a 0.6mpg difference between the two over those cumulative distances. Considering I also installed the VCMuzzler around the same time as the switch to 0w40 which disabled the “eco” mode, there was literally NO measurable difference between the two at operating temps based on viscosity alone.
 
Why not just go to BMW and get the oil? My daughter is a BMW addict and I've gotten tired of searching for approved oils, I go to the dealer and buy the specified 0w-30. Her old N20 3 series ran just fine on Euro Castrol A3/B4 (LL01). The B48 (requiring LL17 FE+) was just a pain to find OTC so I started buying it at BMW.
 
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