Can't find air leak

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Thanks.

Is Pittsburgh a fairly reputable name in tools? I was reading the reviews of their 25" breaker bar, and some people were saying it's flimsy and they managed to bend it. I guess for $12 you get what you pay for...
 
Those pittsburgh bars do flex a scary bunch. You can stiffen them with a pipe for a "cast" though arguably that creates an artificial stress at the head or end of the pipe. I bet, though, that you'll get your lugs off with that pittsburgh bar. Saved my day at the tire shop when the impact wrench wouldn't get something off.
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Thanks. That breaker bar sounds like a good tool to have. Does HF sell individual sockets? I need a 17mm one and don't see it on their website. I have one at home in IL, but I'm not there now.


This kit might be overkill but I have it and it's cool to have.

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These work great as hand tools, but not-so great on my impact gun for some reason. Their breaker bar works fine - I've owned mine since 2007 (or so) and it has not bent at all.

It's strange that you cannot get off the lug nuts. Most of Fartstones I've been to use torque sticks...though even my gun has been known to overpower them at times, but not to the extent that you are describing.
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Well, got the 25" bar and it still won't budge. Gotta drive back to Firestone I guess...


It's just as well you let them do it. Sometimes a lazy monkey won't want to walk 10 feet to pick up a rag and will instead just grind the lugs on with an impact wrench. If that's what happened, it will be plainly obvious when they remove them and there won't be any question as to who's responsible for the damage. If they try to dodge it with the old "It was like that." excuse, well, you know who put those lugs on so you know who should be paying for new OE parts.
 
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are you going the right direction..

IIRC towards the front on driver side.

towards the rear on passenger side.

( to loosen)

and it doesnt have funky reverse thread or anything right?

100ftlb is not even a hard tug with a 25" breaker bar

200 is barely an effort for me and I'm not exactly hercules.

if they are that tight it has to be at least 350ft-lb
 
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Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Well, got the 25" bar and it still won't budge. Gotta drive back to Firestone I guess...

Good idea.
I think they may cross thread 1 or more lugs.
 
OK, got them to loosen the lugs. Then the guy re-torqued them to 80 ft-lbs using a torque stick. I swear their torque sticks must be way off because when I got home, it still took quite a bit of effort to get them loose again, although obviously not as bad as previously.

Got the wheel off the car. No nails in the tread, but soapy water does appear to be bubbling up near the rim lip where the bend is. This bend has been there for years. I'm guessing over time corrosion set in and eventually caused the loss of seal between the rim and the tire. I'm wondering if it's even worth trying to get this rim straightened at this point because it may continue to leak air due to the corrosion. Worth a try? I'll have to call the dealer tomorrow to find out how much a new rim costs, but I'm sure it ain't cheap.


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Just a note:

I also have my tires done at Firestone and my local shop got a bad batch of valves. The cores are okay but the brass tubes were threaded slightly over sized or stripped so the cores only hung on by the very tips of the threads. Just checking tire pressure was enough force to cock the cores and create leaks.

Because of this 2 of my tires acted like yours and they were unpredictable as to when it would occur. I only found it when I noticed what I thought was a bent stem. When I replaced them the new cores were also loose and would cock when they reached the seat.

LOL nevermind. You found and posted your problem as I was typing my reply.
smile.gif
 
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Yes, a new or junk yard rim would be best.

If it was me, being the tightwad that I am, I would clean the inside bead of that area and try some old school black rubberized bead sealer - not the grease like soap most shops are using now.

If that didn't work I would TIG more metal on the inside to fill the dent and file/grind it flush using a straight edge. Both options will require a re-balancing of the wheel.

I can't see a way to press to hammer that back into shape. I would worry about cracking or stressing it too much from the hammer blows but I would probably do it anyway as a last resort.

I did not type this. I was not here.
 
New rim. If you're lucky you can find a used one. Most of the time, new or used, with stock rims you're already half way or more towards a new set of 4 after markets.
 
Originally Posted By: Grebbler
If it was me, being the tightwad that I am, I would clean the inside bead of that area and try some old school black rubberized bead sealer - not the grease like soap most shops are using now.


This is you cheapest option to start with. Back in my wrenching days, I would probably have at least one of these a day to do and never had any problems getting them to seal. If they didn't hold right away, I'd take a heavy rubber mallet to it and strike the tire sidewall right at the leak until it seals up.
 
Originally Posted By: Kestas
We actually tried undenting an aluminum rim once, with the press we have at work. It cracked the rim.


With the sort of bend Quattro Pete has I've had better luck using a soft-faced BFH. With a press or a ram it's too easy to just keep moving the metal in the desired direction you want until it cracks. If you use a hammer, you stop after every hammer blow and the metal has a chance to say "Hey, that's enough" as it were. It doesn't talk, of course, but you can see it isn't moving as willingly which is almost as good as talking. It's moving less because it's getting harder and more brittle ancl closer to cracking. You can only go so far and then stop before it cracks which may not be as far as you want but may be good enough. If you find yourself in a spot where you need to try it again, maybe give it a try with a hammer.

Someone who knows their metal can anneal it and continue to work the metal until it's right. I can't do that and I'm guessing you can't either (or you wouldn't have cracked that rim) but there are people who can. An outfit that does alloy wheel repair necessarily has at least one person who knows how. It can be done and the results can be quite good.
 
At work, I have furnaces availble to anneal aluminum. I choose not to. Once you've annealed the aluminum, you've seriously compromised the part strength. The heat treatment is engineered into the material for a reason.

We tried using a hammer. And you're correct, it takes a lot of force to undent it. I see your point against using a press.
 
Assuming that that it doesn't produce any annoying noise or vibration, yes. I also think one or two hammer blows (deflate the tire pretty low but not completely) with a 20 lbs. sledge and a nice rubber cushion (find something suitable) should be tried first both because it may fix the leak on its own and also because it could significantly improve the likelyhood that bead sealer would work.

If you can find a hammer and a piece of rubber you're looking at wasting a little time and maybe $20, but possibly saving the cost of a replacement wheel.

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Alright, maybe the worst case is that you miss and the hammer breaks your leg. Don't miss or at least don't put your body where it can be injured should you miss.
 
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