Cannot open the ATF drain plug on 2000 accord

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Oct 8, 2012
Messages
923
Location
California
Hey guys,

I just got an 2000 accord SE a month ago.

Everything is fine , but the ATF has not been changed since factory , Honda recomends every 30k in the manual I believe.

I have broken two wrenches ( including 1 torque wrench) trying to open this two separate times.

I have used the .5 inch and the 10mm ( marked for Hondas and Acruas by Pep Boys) and nothing can open it.


Is there any way to drain the liquid otherwise? I am thinking to take it to shop give him a dollar to loosen it up . It is accesble from side without the need to lift it.

Thanks
 
Why are you using a torque wrench to loosen a drain plug? You seem to be confused as to what size socket properly fits on the plug as well... 1/2" and 10mm are nowhere near the same size (and I suspect the drain plug takes something more like 17mm).

Take the car to a shop and let them change the ATF.
 
or suck it out with compressor pump. But braker bar is cheaper. I had a tough drain plug on rear diff on MB, sucked it out thru fill hole, not so sure it will work with auto transmission.
 
The last time I had a bolt that would not come off was when I was changing the blade on a chop-saw. It turned out to be a reverse thread. Initially when I really applied torque to that bolt it did turn a little but then it would not turn anymore. That should be a clue to anyone who has a bolt or a nut that they are having trouble with. If it turns a little and then you cant get it to turn any more, it probably is a reverse thread. They are not common, but they do exist.

You could ask a Honda mechanic if that bolt is a reverse thread.
 
I used 3/8 ratchet tip and 3 foot of steel pipe,the car up
to a ramp.New washer and clean magnetic tip of the bolt.
 
I usually use a 1-foot long 3/8 drive ratchet (snap on dual 80) and a 3-inch extension - I've yet to have one that has given me trouble...and I've done many of them there were "factory."

If the 3/8" square is already a bit jacked, I would suggest getting a hammer and really hammering the 3/8" extension in there to ensure a good grip before breaking it loose.
 
Originally Posted By: JimPghPA
The last time I had a bolt that would not come off was when I was changing the blade on a chop-saw. It turned out to be a reverse thread. Initially when I really applied torque to that bolt it did turn a little but then it would not turn anymore. That should be a clue to anyone who has a bolt or a nut that they are having trouble with. If it turns a little and then you cant get it to turn any more, it probably is a reverse thread. They are not common, but they do exist.

You could ask a Honda mechanic if that bolt is a reverse thread.


You don't have to be a Honda mechanic to know 100% that the threads on this drain bolt are not reversed. Manufacturers don't put reverse threads just because they feel like it and in all cases there is a reason for it. Since the drain bolt is in no way part of a rotating assembly, the thread will be right hand thread.

Regarding the drain plug I agree with Critic. Make sure that whatever you are using is properly seated and use a hammer to tap it in place. Then grab a breaker bar and a pipe extension and this plug will not stand a chance.
And make sure your turning the right way. This silly mistake can happen to all of us.
 
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
You are attempting to loosen the plug that requires the square drive of the ratchet, right?


+1 On a Honda the plug has a square opening that a 3/8 drive fits into. You will need a new crush washer as well.
 
Last edited:
I sure hope he is NOT using 10mm socket! If he manages to take that bolt off, he would be in acute financial pain!!
 
I used the original crush washer on my 89 Accord for 20+ years and it never was even wet. Since it smashes against an aluminum alloy transaxle case it doesn't even have to be made that tight to form a good seal. Somebody must have over torqued yours in the past.
 
Can't comment on anything newer than 1999 since that was the last Accord drive train I have experience with, but as others have posted, the drain plug had a square hole that accommodated a 3/8" ratchet wrench.
 
It takes 18mm washer but the bolt has 3/8 square recessed hole and you use a ratchet with no socket to take it off.
 
every Honda/Acura I know have ATF drain bolt that can be removed by square head (3/8") on the 3/8 ratchet, and i am sure 2000 Accord is the same. my experiences are these are very tight from factory. jack up the car high so you have clearances for ratchet, or extension bar to move/leverage.
I remember once told dealer ATF drain bolt was too tight, and ask them to just loosen it a bit and set it to factory spec when I was in for an oil change. they did and become reasonable tightness and easier.
 
Usually (at least on 2000-up models) there is a 3/8 square drive plug for the drain, and a 17mm fill plug. The fill plug is usually most stubborn. I usually use a 3 ft breaker bar to loosen the fill. I have never had a problem with the drains not coming out. Make sure you are turning the correct direction, and using the correct tools.
 
Originally Posted By: mattd
Usually (at least on 2000-up models) there is a 3/8 square drive plug for the drain, and a 17mm fill plug. The fill plug is usually most stubborn. I usually use a 3 ft breaker bar to loosen the fill. I have never had a problem with the drains not coming out. Make sure you are turning the correct direction, and using the correct tools.


+1 This. Depending how you are lying under a car with a horizontal drain (if this has that)it is easy to get the wrong direction. Use a new crush washer and about 30 ft/lbs is enough. No gorillas needed.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom